Would this work for DI valve deposit cleaning?

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I've seen a fair bit of discussion on these forums about concerns with direct injection and valve deposit formation. From the posts I've read it looks like cleaning the depoits off is a difficult thing for a DIYer to do. I couldn't help but wonder if there isn't a simple obvious way to clean the deposits without doing any huge amount of work.

Here's my first idea:
Run a length of nylon tubing from a location in the intake between the throttle plate and the throat of the plenum into the cabin of the vehicle to a closed brass needle valve valve and another length from there to a container with a quart or so of methyl ethyl ketone. Set up a scan tool to watch fuel trims. Warm the engine, then drive on a long stretch of highway. Slowly open the needle valve while monitoring the fuel trims as they go negative. Find a happy position on the valve where trims are between 60% and 80% of the threshhold for setting a p017x code. When the MEK runs out, close the valve and drive home, then disconnect everything.

If I had a DI engine with deposit problems I would try this and use a boroscope to see if it works, but all of my cars have port injection. I don't have shiny new car money.

Any thoughts as to whether or not this would work? Do you think there's any reason to thing this might be harmful? Do you know an easier way that you think would work?
 
MEK is not something that's fun to deal with. I'd pass on using MEK for a cleaner with PEA like redline SL1.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?


the gm dude was angry when I said that...don't think he likes you either
spankme2.gif
 
I have 2 Ecoboost F150 pickups, with odometer readings of 35k and 19k. Both run stronger now than when new.
So evidently it takes more miles than 35k for the clogging to begin. My Mazdaspeed 3 had 65 k miles on him before I traded it in on one of the pickups and he always ran like a scalded dog, what a great car. Before Mazda takes those out of production I plan to get one again, I loved it that much.

So I've had 3 DI turbo engines that were / are problem free. It'd be a waste of money and time to clean the valves IMHO.

Now I have heard that the VW auto group fans haven't been so lucky......
 
Originally Posted By: double vanos


Now I have heard that the VW auto group fans haven't been so lucky......


VW fans are never lucky but they are too cool to care.

bahahah!!
 
My Mazda CX7 turbo has DI and now at ~ 60,000 miles and no problems. This is an early DI engine. I think manufactures have solved what problems there were.
 
Originally Posted By: needsducktape
Originally Posted By: double vanos


Now I have heard that the VW auto group fans haven't been so lucky......


VW fans are never lucky but they are too cool to care.

bahahah!!





I have to agree with you on that one but don't forget how many of those VW drivers are pretty women who don't have any reason to care. There's always someone who's all too happy to take care of her car for free or give her a new one if it stops working properly or gets to looking old.

/stereotypes aren't always wrong
 
So what happens if the intake valves get carboned up? Does it lose power? Diesels are direct injected and I don't see people cleaning them?
 
MEK is powerful stuff. No way to tell what it could do to gaskets and other sensitive parts. Probably void your warranty if damage occurred. Give the engineers some credit. They will find a fix if DI problems occur. Let them do the experimenting with these chemicals. Recalls, service work under warranty, TSB's all cost them money. They will work it out.
 
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I'd install a lucas drip feeder, and run it with whatever brew that I decided on (Say Lucas as a carrier and Techron ???).

I don't see that it would "wash" the valve like port fuel injection does, so don't know if it's likely to work.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Kreen is up for the job too. But there is no problem to fix according to GM.


Would GM admit to a problem? Would any car maker admit to a problem?


the gm dude was angry when I said that...don't think he likes you either
spankme2.gif





Oh well.
smile.gif
 
Let me get this straight....you want to drive down the road with an open can of MEK in the cab? The vapor pressure of MEK is really low, that stuff would volatize within the cab and then you'd be breathing it in.....
 
I honestly believe tapping the intake manifold on each runner works well.

Then run whatever you want to experiment with as far as chemicals. I'm partial to SeaFoam long term on valves for DI.

I scoped my MS3 at 80K and then again at 100K and I saw improvement from 80K just doing reg SF treatments (every 1K-1500 miles)
 
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Originally Posted By: PZR2874
I honestly believe tapping the intake manifold on each runner works well.

Then run whatever you want to experiment with as far as chemicals. I'm partial to SeaFoam long term on valves for DI.

I scoped my MS3 at 80K and then again at 100K and I saw improvement from 80K just doing reg SF treatments (every 1K-1500 miles)


How could Yellow Pale oil, lighter fluid, and rubbing alcohol help a DI? I could see it being peppier for a tankful on the IPA, but the cleaning abilities of pale oil and naphtha are weak at best. You spent a small fortune on the stuff, would hope you'd see something.
 
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