Would M1 EP stand up to 7500 miles of severe service?

[Tahoe4Life]

I drive in Boston a lot which is basically an extreme case of severe service. Lately I've been dumping my oil at about 3500-4000k and it's plenty black and dirty at this point. Hyundai severe service recommendation is 3750, would EP more than likely hold up to 7500? I don't plan on getting a UOA.

Sounds like severe service to me. I am in 24/7 gridlocked Miami Beach. I use 0w20 Mobil 1 EP every 5K miles miles. Probably can go to 7500 miles but I sleep better doing it at 5K miles.

Oil is a dark amber but not black at 5K miles . I use no oil between changes. This is also in constant jungle heat with a/c constantly on and idling here and there to keep the interior cold.

 

[NH73]

Mechanics out there are promoting short OCIs. I asked a mechanic once about Toyota's 10k OCI. He said, too long. He said, engines get sludge in them, there been problems. Yet, I read here that people do longer OCI's no problem.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Some people don't keep cars long enough. In the lease or trade-in world, longer OCI's might not be felt until the 2nd or 3rd owner.
And above all, driving styles vary. For example, my 2500hrs of driving took me to 80k miles. My wife's 5000hrs took her to 80k miles. Should the OCI be the same? I've seen people do shorter OCIs and have problems.

In one of the abuser's post, he states that he drives 200-300 miles a day. I wouldn't even consider severe service. I would use a full synthetic oil, full synthetic filter, and push that interval right to the OE recommend 7500 miles, while checking/topping off the oil daily.

So, how many miles does your Accent have? and at this point in its life, do you think it would make a difference?

 

[UncleDave]

the way I read the duty cycle is

1. A freeway trip into town - which means the car is fully warmed and brought to temp.
2. Bumper to bumper while in town (already warmed)
3 .Then a freeway run back home back up to full temp.

Throw in the standard onramp or passing redlines on the freeway portions.
If this is the case I would not call that severe.

If the car gets short cycled in town without ever fully getting warmed for days on end - then to me the cycle becomes severe.

 

[Mainia]

Not much is really severe service. UOA after UOA proves that service has to be, you know, really severe to make much difference.

Go ahead and test. You won’t break your car to do it once. Bet Mobil 1 EP would chew it up and spit it out.

Just owning a Hyundai engine, puts you into severe service.

 

[wpod]

A uoa is really the only way to actually tell how an oil is holding up.

 

[Mainia]

I would use 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP to 6,500 miles with a Fram Ultra and call it a day. No need for UOA, since you are just driving it somewhat mellow. You just need good oil to start with, as you are with EP.

 

[UncleDave]

I would use 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP to 6,500 miles with a Fram Ultra and call it a day. No need for UOA, since you are just driving it somewhat mellow. You just need good oil to start with, as you are with EP.

Just curious what math/strategy/ thought/ mechanism/history are you using to pick 6500 vs any other distance?

EP was originally designed to take modern cars to 15K.

 

[OilReport99]

EP was originally designed to take modern cars to 15K.

Took mine to 13-17K OCI for 10 years. Still runs fine. This was when I replaced the valve cover gaskets at 145K. Little varnish...so what?

 

[Mainia]

Just curious what math/strategy/ thought/ mechanism/history are you using to pick 6500 vs any other distance?

EP was originally designed to take modern cars to 15K.

Hyundai GDI

At work, we run a port injected Ford Transit Connect 15,000 miles. So I am not against long OCI. Just not on a Hyundai GDI with their horrid internal engine metallurgy choices. The math is 3.8 billion of trashed motors in 8 years by Hyundai's own figures. Oh and going........ a good large handful of 2.0 NA 2020-2021Kona's have trashed engines at 500 to 30,000 miles. So their bad track record is still on a run. All it would take is a call to Mahle Engineering and buy their engine kit and Hyundai would save billions and tidy up their bad reputation. But NO, they want to bleed money for the executives to skim. There is no other viable explanation for not fixing their crap motors other then someone is skimming money in the chaos.

I just happen to own one of their rare engines that don't destroy themselves until very late in life. 13% to 17% of all Hyundai engines will not make it to 100,000. I bet it is more like 20%.

 

[ejes]

I drive in Boston a lot which is basically an extreme case of severe service. Lately I've been dumping my oil at about 3500-4000k and it's plenty black and dirty at this point. Hyundai severe service recommendation is 3750, would EP more than likely hold up to 7500? I don't plan on getting a UOA.

Personally, I'd run SuperTech HM synthetic with a Fram ToughGuard at your current OCI just because it would save some money and do just as well at that interval. But I agree with you at staying at that OCI whatever you use as long as it is a quality synthetic. I also agree with Mainia as I've had experience with Hyundai's as well and you are probably on borrowed time with their GDI. Just another reason for short OCI's with that.

 

[EEE]

I could agree with that for MPFI or throttle body injection. But with DI i would think about that again. My mazda in NC winters (20-30F) will dilute the oil with fuel doing 8 mile trips. Like >5%.

I run a heavier oil winter and change at 2k due to this. 0w40 winter, 0w30 summer.

Is that Mazda a turbo? Didn't think Mazda had the Honda Syndrome.

 

[UncleDave]

Hyundai GDI

At work, we run a port injected Ford Transit Connect 15,000 miles. So I am not against long OCI. Just not on a Hyundai GDI with their horrid internal engine metallurgy choices. The math is 3.8 billion of trashed motors in 8 years by Hyundai's own figures. Oh and going........ a good large handful of 2.0 NA 2020-2021Kona's have trashed engines at 500 to 30,000 miles. So their bad track record is still on a run. All it would take is a call to Mahle Engineering and buy their engine kit and Hyundai would save billions and tidy up their bad reputation. But NO, they want to bleed money for the executives to skim. There is no other viable explanation for not fixing their crap motors other then someone is skimming money in the chaos.

I just happen to own one of their rare engines that don't destroy themselves until very late in life. 13% to 17% of all Hyundai engines will not make it to 100,000. I bet it is more like 20%.

Ok the question still stands - why "6500" vs. 3,4,5, 6, 7 ?

 

[UncleDave]

Took mine to 13-17K OCI for 10 years. Still runs fine. This was when I replaced the valve cover gaskets at 145K. Little varnish...so what?


View attachment 51378

Looks good to me and a reasonable sump life.
Almost no varnish.

 

[Mainia]

Ok the question still stands - why "6500" vs. 3,4,5, 6, 7 ?

Because that is what I choose by seeing what I have seen owning 2 Hyundai's. If his name wasn't HyundaiAbuser I would say 7,500. Seems like he may do some sport driving as he said. Those are my numbers, you can have your own opinion, pick your #s.

I run Red Line Performance Euro and since it has helped my fuel dilution I now dump at 4,000 miles in winter. I have yet to see my UOA on my through the winter oil change where ALL my fuel dilution is gone, and I am back to the oil level at the center of the full dot. When I was running Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP I would have a small amount of fuel dilution oil rise even in summer and ESP would never pull back to the original level I installed fresh oil like the Redline has. That being said I am on boost more then most and my motor gets high street sport use. Lets just say when I get to work in the morning I have to drive around the parking lot a couple times a week for a turbo cool down to reduce any coking from a HOT turbo. So I myself put my oil through it's paces. Plus, I ALWAYS do 3 minute warm ups even in summer to expand my pistons as I have seen some Hyundai pistons have some rocking wear.

 

[spasm3]

Is that Mazda a turbo? Didn't think Mazda had the Honda Syndrome.

no, non turbo 2.5G

 

[Accent Abuser]

Oh now I remember...you’re the guy that does the car share thing in Boston.

I’d say the Mobil1 should be good for your application. Boston is the most horrific city I’ve ever driven in. I thoroughly hate it. I’ll have to rent your car the next time I have a night out in Boston...I’ll redline it every five seconds, go around a half million roundabouts and then let it idle in 20 degree weather for two hours, just to test it. Lol.

Lol it's ride-sharing not renting my car. I'm the one driving it like a maniac. You are correct, Boston is a horrific city to drive in for millions of reasons.

 

[EEE]

no, non turbo 2.5G

Didn't know the non turbo engines have oil dilution too. The CX-5 is/was on my short list. Seems like can't get away from oil consumption or oil dilution with any car these days. Makes me wish for my 2001 Civic. 220k miles and no oil consumption, no valve cover gasket seepage, no dilution, oil changes with convention oil every 5000.

 

[spasm3]

Didn't know the non turbo engines have oil dilution too. The CX-5 is/was on my short list. Seems like can't get away from oil consumption or oil dilution with any car these days. Makes me wish for my 2001 Civic. 220k miles and no oil consumption, no valve cover gasket seepage, no dilution, oil changes with convention oil every 5000.

Its only in cold weather, short trips. Warmer weather, no problem.

 

[john_pifer]

the way I read the duty cycle is

1. A freeway trip into town - which means the car is fully warmed and brought to temp.
2. Bumper to bumper while in town (already warmed)
3 .Then a freeway run back home back up to full temp.

Throw in the standard onramp or passing redlines on the freeway portions.
If this is the case I would not call that severe.

If the car gets short cycled in town without ever fully getting warmed for days on end - then to me the cycle becomes severe.

Agree.

If this is how you use your car, it should be fine, depending on how much fuel dilution you get.

This is non-turbo, but GDI, right?

Personally, I’d go with M1-EP 10W-30 instead of the 5W-30, because it has lower amounts of viscosity modifier to shear down and therefore should keep the engine even cleaner, and will stay in its viscosity grade for much longer.

You will not stretch the cold start capabilities of M1-EP 10W-30 in Boston. It flows better @ 0°F than many lighter grade oils, due to the significant percentage of PAO that the base oil is blended with.

Personally I would use the above oil, and get a UOA at 7500, preferably from OAI or another lab that can accurately measure fuel content (not Blackstone).