I drive in Boston a lot which is basically an extreme case of severe service. Lately I've been dumping my oil at about 3500-4000k and it's plenty black and dirty at this point. Hyundai severe service recommendation is 3750, would EP more than likely hold up to 7500? I don't plan on getting a UOA.
Would M1 EP stand up to 7500 miles of severe service?
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What vehicle?
Miles?
Service history?
How long have you owned it?
What oils have been used in it up until now?
Miles?
Service history?
How long have you owned it?
What oils have been used in it up until now?
2016 Hyundai Accent 133,000 miles never had an oil change interval extended beyond 5-6k. Mostly quick lube/firestone bulk syn blend or conventional. Last 5 oil changes were full synthetic since I started doing them myself. Owned it since 35k. It's been over serviced if anything.
Not much is really severe service. UOA after UOA proves that service has to be, you know, really severe to make much difference.
Go ahead and test. You won’t break your car to do it once. Bet Mobil 1 EP would chew it up and spit it out.
Go ahead and test. You won’t break your car to do it once. Bet Mobil 1 EP would chew it up and spit it out.
Like having an average speed below 20mph due to constant stop and go traffic (even with lots of highway) and hitting redline 4-5x a day? If that's not severe I'd love to know what is.
Not much is really severe service. UOA after UOA proves that service has to be, you know, really yuh
severe to make much difference.
severe to make much difference.
Nope. Stick to your current OCI.
Its not really - a half ton truck towing 8K cross country, or a boat is severe.
JHZR2
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Going on 20 years ago we started putting cars that had uber short commutes, like 5 blocks, multiple times per day, on non severe service intervals with syn oil. They did great and lasted until the owners wanted to get rid of them.
Run a few UOAs to gauge fuel and moisture, then run with confidence based upon that.
Run a few UOAs to gauge fuel and moisture, then run with confidence based upon that.
Doesn’t sound like severe service, definitely not extreme. I would run EP for 7500 miles without breaking a sweat. That’s half of what I used to run it for in my old Impala.
I realize you don't want to get a UOA so all I can say is it should. However the only way to be certain is spend a few $$ on a UOA and know for sure. I pay, and so do several others about $10+ postage for a UOA, and imo it is money well spent.
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Oh now I remember...you’re the guy that does the car share thing in Boston.
I’d say the Mobil1 should be good for your application. Boston is the most horrific city I’ve ever driven in. I thoroughly hate it. I’ll have to rent your car the next time I have a night out in Boston...I’ll redline it every five seconds, go around a half million roundabouts and then let it idle in 20 degree weather for two hours, just to test it. Lol.
I’d say the Mobil1 should be good for your application. Boston is the most horrific city I’ve ever driven in. I thoroughly hate it. I’ll have to rent your car the next time I have a night out in Boston...I’ll redline it every five seconds, go around a half million roundabouts and then let it idle in 20 degree weather for two hours, just to test it. Lol.
Were I in your shoes, I'd....
Buy 2 of the cheaper analysis kits from RockAuto.
Switch to the EP and sample it at 6K.
Buy 2 of the cheaper analysis kits from RockAuto.
Switch to the EP and sample it at 6K.
No.
I disagree with some of my esteemed colleagues above. Oil becomes contaminated with soot, fuel, evaporated fuel by products, combustion by products, wear particulates and more. The oil change is the only solution to remove the above contaminates.
There is a reason so many timing and balancer chains are failing now. It's not due to poor oil quality, it's due to operating for extended periods of time with contaminated oil. Hyundai engines are chief among the examples.
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It's a Hyundai, if you read their manual actually driving the car is severe service. 
Additionally, a standard UOA will not clearly indicate particulate load, or how much of the oil has been supplanted by fuel by products. We can make guesses based on viscosity. But short of performing a particulate count and analysis, along with various additional tests, you won't really know how contaminated your oil has become. Nor will the "wear metals" indicate "wear rates" despite the claims that they do.
Yes, I know raw fuel dilution is available. However, consider what happens when fuel enters the oil and evaporates. It leaves behind components that do not evaporate, a non-oil residue that can and does reduce an oil's performance.
The Honda CRV is a great example. Some owners have oil sumps that fill up with fuel. Some don't. The ones that don't still have plenty of raw fuel entering the oil sump, where it evaporates (example due to highway trips) and leaves behind non oil components aplenty.
Yes, I know raw fuel dilution is available. However, consider what happens when fuel enters the oil and evaporates. It leaves behind components that do not evaporate, a non-oil residue that can and does reduce an oil's performance.
The Honda CRV is a great example. Some owners have oil sumps that fill up with fuel. Some don't. The ones that don't still have plenty of raw fuel entering the oil sump, where it evaporates (example due to highway trips) and leaves behind non oil components aplenty.
I could agree with that for MPFI or throttle body injection. But with DI i would think about that again. My mazda in NC winters (20-30F) will dilute the oil with fuel doing 8 mile trips. Like >5%.
I run a heavier oil winter and change at 2k due to this. 0w40 winter, 0w30 summer.
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