Won the bid, not sure if I will be awarded the 1979 YAMAHA XS1100

[Astro14]

I’d go German…it ain’t gonna’ break the bank. Replace all the fuel and vacuum hoses, too.

Maybe keep that Vetter fairing on there. The matching paint is nice…

 

[KrisZ]

K&L kits are good quality too. I think these are made in Japan.

However, before buying I would remove the carbs and open them up. You would be surprised how many parts can be re-used. It will also give you an idea what you need for the rebuild. The kits don't always come with the parts you may need. They just come with the most common ones. And pay attention to the carbs themselves, I don't know if Yamaha did this, but Kawasaki models would have slightly different carbs even for the same model year.

I've had good luck with cheap Chinese ones, but some parts didn't fit or were off slightly. So they are definitely a gamble.

Also, don't buy a cheap Chinese fuel tap, those are junk. Rebuild the OEM one, it probably just needs a new seal and a vacuum diaphragm, if it's vacuum operated.

Edit:
Do you have a set of JIS screwdrivers? If not, get a set, otherwise you will be ruining the screw heads by using the normal philips head screwdriver.

 

[GON]

Great video on the Mikuni BS34's carbs from the XS1100:

 

[JWC86]

The Chinese kits are a gamle, most are good but some will not be quite right. Can turn into a PITA when doing one carb let alone 4. I would spring for the german rebuild kit myself. Could save you some major frustration.

Please post pics of the inside of the carbs when you get them apart.

 

[02SE]

Don't forget tires and valve stems.

As mentioned, K&L makes some good kits.

I didn't see obvious signs of fork seal leaks, but those old damper rod forks are easy to service, usually ATF is fine for the oil.

 

[GON]

Went into one of the luggage cases found a owners manual and a service manual.

Title is dated 1985. Not sure if he is the original owner or not because of the title date. Owner was married. Weird thing about the title, if doesn't have a spot for buyer's name. Only seller's name and if there is a lien. Maybe Oregon titles from 1985 didn't care about the Buyer, all that mattered was sellers signature?

 

[GON]

Got her off the trailer. Definitely should have filled the tires with air first. This baby is heavy or I am getting weaker... likely both.

Battery is 30 years old from its sticker. Actually looks like it is trying to charge. Time to return the trailer to uhaul.

 

[paulo57509]

Do you have a set of JIS screwdrivers? If not, get a set, otherwise you will be ruining the screw heads by using the normal philips head screwdriver.

This, for sure. And these to use with your impact driver:

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0577

 

[zray1]

“……Battery is 30 years old from its sticker. Actually looks like it is trying to charge…..”

After you get it 100% recharged, go ahead and walk on water,

I know you can do miracles !

Z

 

[vwmaniaman]

Your wife will just have to understand that older men cherish the little boy they have inside. I don;t believe she would love you with out that little boy.

 

[GON]

Could not help myself, so hooked up the jump pack to see if she would turn over. She turned over real good.

Gas tank inside rusty, draining the gas tank now. What I am drawing from the tank is very nasty looking. A Google search suggested clr, vinegar, and baking soda is the nasty gas tank holder holy Grail for removing my rust. Heading out of town for five nights, so I will likely fill the tank to the top with the mixture and let it sit for five days.

Went to remove the tank and just discovered pet cocks / shot offs on both sides of the tank. Don't remember ever seeing that before. But I am forgetting lots of things...

 

[ZeeOSix]

Valve lash adjustment is an expensive time consuming job.

I remember doing valve lash adjustments on those bikes when I worked at a Yamaha/Honda dealership. The shims sat on top of the bucked over the valve, so they could be changed without removing the cam shafts, which made it pretty easy actually. The bikes today have the shim under the bucket so the cams need to be removed to change the shims.

 

[GON]

Drained the likely decades old fuel from the carbs. Only two of the four bowls had liquid drain out. The fuel tank has two petcocks, one for two carbs and the other for two carbs. So fuel equally appears to have drained out from each side where the petcock delivers fuel.

Filled the carburetor with wd40. I will let the wd40 sit in the carbs for 72 hours. I also placed a generous amount of wd40 on top of the heads where the spark plug mounts. Super happy to have bought a $5 turkey syringe from the cooking section at Wal Mart. This made placing the wd40 into the fuel lines enroute to the carbs super easy and very clean.

Started to de rust the gas tank. I am using vinegar. Lots of choices out there. After a ample amount of research, which a heavily rusted tank, the vinegar seemed like the best course of action. I looked at the non toxic non acid rust removal products. They seemed great but plenty of reviews, if one looks, state the non acid products did not remove the rust from fuel tanks.

I debated when to start this. Most people go 48 hours of vinegar treatment. I was out of town for five nights, so waited to start the vinegar process. Some comments was extended vinegar exposure gould eat to deep into a gas tank.

After 48 hours, I will rinse the tank with water, than rinse again with five gallons of water and five cups of basic soda, the dry inside of tank with a hair dryer, then coat tank with three cups of wd40. Then I will drain wd40 and install replacement petcocks.

 

[Pablo]

Drained the likely decades old fuel from the carbs. Only two of the four bowls had liquid drain out. The fuel tank has two petcocks, one for two carbs and the other for two carbs. So fuel equally appears to have drained out from each side where the petcock delivers fuel.

Filled the carburetor with wd40. I will let the wd40 sit in the carbs for 72 hours. I also placed a generous amount of wd40 on top of the heads where the spark plug mounts. Super happy to have bought a $5 turkey syringe from the cooking section at Wal Mart. This made placing the wd40 into the fuel lines enroute to the carbs super easy and very clean.

Started to de rust the gas tank. I am using vinegar. Lots of choices out there. After a ample amount of research, which a heavily rusted tank, the vinegar seemed like the best course of action. I looked at the non toxic non acid rust removal products. They seemed great but plenty of reviews, if one looks, state the non acid products did not remove the rust from fuel tanks.

I debated when to start this. Most people go 48 hours of vinegar treatment. I was out of town for five nights, so waited to start the vinegar process. Some comments was extended vinegar exposure gould eat to deep into a gas tank.

After 48 hours, I will rinse the tank with water, than rinse again with five gallons of water and five cups of basic soda, the dry inside of tank with a hair dryer, then coat tank with three cups of wd40. Then I will drain wd40 and install replacement petcocks.

View attachment 180076View attachment 180077View attachment 180078View attachment 180079

How does the tank look inside?

Vinegar works, but so does citric acid and not so steenkey.

Also you will need to get ALL the WD-40 out, it gets nasty and gummy in combustion.

 

[GON]

How does the tank look inside?

Vinegar works, but so does citric acid and not so steenkey.

Also you will need to get ALL the WD-40 out, it gets nasty and gummy in combustion.

Tank didn't look pretty inside. I problem should have pressure washed the inside before starting the treatment.

A gallon of white vinegar use to be well under $2 a gallon. It is now close to $4 a gallon, plus add 10 percent Washington State sales tax. I studied like crazy which was to go to try and clean the inside of the tank. I actually bought three gallons of clr concentrate last night. Decided to go with the vinegar in the ended, but the cost was over double for the vinegar than I planned.

Thanks for the caution of wd40 and combustion chambersm.i debated using wd40, berrymans, or seafoam. Decided on wd40 because of its lubricant properties. If I get time challenged, the wd40 in the carbs I suspect will not damage any plastic or rubber parts. I think the Seafoam or Berrymans might degrade rubber and or plastic in the carb if left sitting in the carb for and extended time.

I am not experienced with this situation, just researching and trying to make decisions primarily because of time constraints.

 

[LDB]

Costs came in much higher than the pre-bid calculator of $174.... ouch....

• Bid Amount $100.00
• Buyer Fee: $80.00
• Service Fee: $79.00
• Internet Fee: $39.00
• Environmental Fee $10.00

$308 out the door.... plus cost of trailer rental and fuel...... no free lunch here.....

What a racket. Buyer fee and service fee are the same thing, just double charging. Internet fee? And environmental fee? More ways to extort money by creating new categories and giving them new names.

 

[Jdeere562]

WD-40 gets gummy after time, with or without combustion. Learned that the hard way some years ago.

Cleaned and lubed a .22 cal revolver with WD-40. Then it sat for several years in a dust free environment. Took it fishing one day and decided to shoot afterwards. The revolver was all gummed up and it would not go bang. It's bad when a double action revolver will not shoot. Can't imagine lubing an auto with it.

 

[ZeeOSix]

After 48 hours, I will rinse the tank with water, than rinse again with five gallons of water and five cups of basic soda, the dry inside of tank with a hair dryer, then coat tank with three cups of wd40. Then I will drain wd40 and install replacement petcocks.

I'd just coat the inside of the tank with WD-40 to displace any left over water and prevent further rusting, and then drain it all out. If you plan on riding it, that WD-40 coating will last until you put gasoline in the tank. Any WD-40 residue will mix with the gas and get burned up without any issues.

 

[Pablo]

Tank didn't look pretty inside. I problem should have pressure washed the inside before starting the treatment.



I am not experienced with this situation, just researching and trying to make decisions primarily because of time constraints.

Pressure washer = big hassle for small tank

I have a decent amount of experience here

1) Get some Simple Green or Purple power cleaner. Put a cup or two in.
Then add boiling or hot as possible water. 4-5 cups. Put lid on and shake well. Repeat. This will clean any organic crud including fuel and oil junk.

Then rinse really well, then straight boiling clean water. Blow very dry. Let dry. Rust may flash, don't worry.

2) Get a container of copper head BB's, if you have a bunch of small ball bearings that will work too. Put those in tank and shake until you sweat. keep going. This will get the scale, Trust me, works well.

3) Rust remover, vinegar, strong citric acid. This will get remaining rust.

4) Rinse again, then rinse with boiling water. Dry well.

5) Slosh some fuel with oil in to prevent flash rust and clean any remaining stuff.

Inspect as you go along. Repeat steps as necessary to get to clean steel.

 

[GON]

Pablo, thanks for the detailed write up!

Did a interem check, all the rust in the bottom of the tank came right off with just a tickle of the inside of the tank with a tool. Implying rust is across the entire inside of the tank, but not in a corroded depth.

Also, need to get a new battery. Hooked up a trickle charger for a week with no results. After pulling the battery, it was bone dry. Added distilled water and put the battery on a different charger. Chargeer is trying to desulfate the battery. The battery appears to be between 28-33 years old. Fun to try to see if it can be revived.