Wizard TILLER model# GIS 6790 486. Has Monkey wards 2 HP engine 60102 0391-02 78050 301 stamped on front recoil housing. Probably B&S. Given to me maybe 20 years ago. Looks like engine is replacement. Starts easily. Smokes oil. Any info on either appreciated. Recoil starter and rope has always been a problem.
Wizard Rototiller
- Thread starter borgward
- Start date
Wizard was a Western Auto brand as I recall.
I have a similar tiller, I think its from the 80's. Has B&S 3.5hp horizontal piston. The biggest problem I have is the recoil as well, as the rope breaks every few years. I only till maybe 200 square feet, so it works well for that. Next time the rope breaks I think I will get a 1 way sprag setup to use my drill.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Front tine rototillers were invented by the Devil himself. My dad had one and he'd "invite" pre-teen me to run it for him, especially after he had a guy turn his garden over in the spring with a little tractor and 1 bottom plow. Like trying to control a PO'd alligator tied to a stick. If you're lucky it won't work.
Interesting Google cut and paste also made for Wards
Maintenance Tips
- Users on the Houzz Forum Discussion share a consensus that “the first three letters of the model number (e.g., GIS) may help identify the manufacturer of a Wizard tiller.” [1]
- Replacement components, diagrams, and manuals can often be cross-referenced through specialized vintage outdoor power equipment sites like PartsTree Wizard Tillers or Gilson Snowblowers and Tillers. [1, 2]
Maintenance Tips
- Drive System: Most vintage GIS front-tine units use a belt-driven pulley tensioner design.
- Gear Housing: Check if your unit is an oil-bath worm drive (using heavy SAE 140 gear oil) or a grease-packed aluminum clamshell housing before servicing the seal
- Gilson Rotary Garden Tiller Parts at The Gilson Snowblower ...
Lubrication. Oil Bath worm drives contain SAE 140 fluid; this is a heavy gear oil. These are the garden tillers with cast iron wor..
- Wizard Tillers (32) OEM Replacement Parts & Diagrams
The Model Tag for your Tiller will usually be found on the top of the Tine Housing or on the side of the frame near the beli
Sprag setup? I was thinking of using drill to start motor. I was almost done when the rope broke. I took the housing off, removed the pulley, and stuck the pulley onto the shaft and pulled. Got the pulley off with lever and ran a few minutes without the cooling housing until done.
they output pulley from engine has 2 sprockets in one piece, each a different diameter. Input to the gearbox is the same. I guess it takes the same belt size for either. It has always run with 1 belt.
I am thinking find deep socket that fits the sprag. Remove the pulley. Drill hole in housing for deep socket. Drive socket with drill motor and remove after engine starts.
Agreed. I ran a front tine tiller ONCE. I think my back was screwed up for a week haha. Now I'm fortunate enough to have a Kubota and a 60" rear tiller I bought used and fixed up. I do my garden, a friend's, my father's, and my grandfather's.
It is a good work out! It does beat turning it all over with a shovel though, as I did that one year when the rope broke.
This the one like I have, turns out its from the 70's now that I looked it up, Sear Roto-spader.
It was my grandfather's and it lived a pretty easy life in the rock free, black soil of southern Manitoba until 2005, then I brought it to Ontario. It breaks up sod in a couple passes, but also I have an idea what "white finger" would be like too, as the vibrations from the engine and then tines throwing it around is hard on the hands. Before I got my tractor I used to run it quite a bit to break up soil to do some bigger earth moving projects, as 5 yards of loose dirt is easy to shovel compared to digging it!
It's not hard to keep these recoil starters working. Make sure the replacement rope is long enough and don't pull so aggressively that you hit the end of the rope. Grease the recoil spring. It looks like it has the classic Briggs ball and cup starter clutch. The spindle extension of the crankshaft requires a small amount of oil or grease since it spins in the drive dog piece (which stays engaged to the rope spool) while running. There should be an oil felt in the end of the drive which you can see with the cover off. Do not apply too much grease since if grease gets on the balls, they will stick in the cup and not return to re-engage the starter after the engine stops.
My tiller is a gimmie. Now that my garden has has been improved over the years it is not hard to use the tiller. In the beginning I broke op the ground with a spade then ran the tiller.
It's a keeper. Rugged cast iron gearbox..
