Wizard Rototiller

Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
746
Location
Central Texas
Wizard TILLER model# GIS 6790 486. Has Monkey wards 2 HP engine 60102 0391-02 78050 301 stamped on front recoil housing. Probably B&S. Given to me maybe 20 years ago. Looks like engine is replacement. Starts easily. Smokes oil. Any info on either appreciated. Recoil starter and rope has always been a problem.
 
I have a similar tiller, I think its from the 80's. Has B&S 3.5hp horizontal piston. The biggest problem I have is the recoil as well, as the rope breaks every few years. I only till maybe 200 square feet, so it works well for that. Next time the rope breaks I think I will get a 1 way sprag setup to use my drill.
 
Front tine rototillers were invented by the Devil himself. My dad had one and he'd "invite" pre-teen me to run it for him, especially after he had a guy turn his garden over in the spring with a little tractor and 1 bottom plow. Like trying to control a PO'd alligator tied to a stick. If you're lucky it won't work.
 
Interesting Google cut and paste also made for Wards

    • The GIS prefix identifies the original equipment maker as Gilson. [1, 2]
    • Users on the Houzz Forum Discussion share a consensus that “the first three letters of the model number (e.g., GIS) may help identify the manufacturer of a Wizard tiller.” [1]

Maintenance Tips
    • Drive System: Most vintage GIS front-tine units use a belt-driven pulley tensioner design.
    • Gear Housing: Check if your unit is an oil-bath worm drive (using heavy SAE 140 gear oil) or a grease-packed aluminum clamshell housing before servicing the seal

  • Gilson Rotary Garden Tiller Parts at The Gilson Snowblower ...
    Lubrication. Oil Bath worm drives contain SAE 140 fluid; this is a heavy gear oil. These are the garden tillers with cast iron wor..


  • Wizard Tillers (32) OEM Replacement Parts & Diagrams
    The Model Tag for your Tiller will usually be found on the top of the Tine Housing or on the side of the frame near the beli

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I have a similar tiller, I think its from the 80's. Has B&S 3.5hp horizontal piston. The biggest problem I have is the recoil as well, as the rope breaks every few years. I only till maybe 200 square feet, so it works well for that. Next time the rope breaks I think I will get a 1 way sprag setup to use my drill.
Sprag setup? I was thinking of using drill to start motor. I was almost done when the rope broke. I took the housing off, removed the pulley, and stuck the pulley onto the shaft and pulled. Got the pulley off with lever and ran a few minutes without the cooling housing until done.
they output pulley from engine has 2 sprockets in one piece, each a different diameter. Input to the gearbox is the same. I guess it takes the same belt size for either. It has always run with 1 belt.
I have a similar tiller, I think its from the 80's. Has B&S 3.5hp horizontal piston. The biggest problem I have is the recoil as well, as the rope breaks every few years. I only till maybe 200 square feet, so it works well for that. Next time the rope breaks I think I will get a 1 way sprag setup to use my drill.
I am thinking find deep socket that fits the sprag. Remove the pulley. Drill hole in housing for deep socket. Drive socket with drill motor and remove after engine starts.
 
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