Wix Filter Failure - WOW

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Is it me or does the part that is broken off look rather dry? Could it have broken from the seal not being lubed and getting stuck/seized and breaking off during installation?


Looking at it more closely, the dry part of the gasket is on the surface that contacts the filter, not the engine. Gasket is flipped over in the picture in other words.

Engine OEMs install filters on new engines with much more than 1/2 turn. This is either a defective gasket or some damage done to the gasket on install.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Oil filters only need hand tightening. Make contact, then 1/2 to 3/4 turn. That's it! The wrench should only be used to get it off.


I agree! I have been hand tightening my oil filters for 24 years now and have never had one come off or leak, so I see no need to be tightening them even more with a wrench. It'll only make it a lot more difficult to remove later, as I find even with hand tightening that it takes a tiny bit of muscle to remove it at the end of the interval.
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
On my Corvette, I always use the torque, 22 ft-lbs, that is recommended, as some people have had leaks with just hand tightening.

22 ft-lbs is almost 2 full turns after contact.


Wow ... which filter was that with? I have a Vette and looking at some of my notes with a WIX 51042 it took 15 ft-lbs to turn the filter 7/8 turn. 12 ft-lbs would put the filter at about 3/4 turn. I don't think I could even get a filter to turn 2 full turns on my engine ... and if I could I'd be really leery of causing some issues with it that tight.

And yes the torque spec from GM is indeed 22 ft-lbs, but I'm wondering if that is for a filter with a "P" gasket style which means the can would bottom out on the filter seat.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Oil filters only need hand tightening. Make contact, then 1/2 to 3/4 turn. That's it! The wrench should only be used to get it off.


I just switched brands from fram to bosch. Fram had a more firm gasket. The 1/2 turn seemed about right. With the bosch, the gasket seems a bit more spongy and I had to torque it a great deal more compared to the fram. Still all by hand, but probably another half turn by hand for the bosch vs. the fram.
 
Last edited:
Every aftermarket filter says how much to tighten the filter (ie, 2/3 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn, etc) based on the thread pitch and gasket material. They put that info on the box for a reason.
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Every aftermarket filter says how much to tighten the filter (ie, 2/3 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn, etc) based on the thread pitch and gasket material. They put that info on the box for a reason.
lol.gif



Who reads the box, and how realiable is it really? Just torque it by hand. when it's got no more play, it's good. Especially true when your on a creeper under the car with an obstructed view. YMMV based on your car, but that's all I do on my two.
 
Originally Posted By: lairdwd
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Every aftermarket filter says how much to tighten the filter (ie, 2/3 turn, 3/4 turn, 1 turn, etc) based on the thread pitch and gasket material. They put that info on the box for a reason.
lol.gif



Who reads the box, and how realiable is it really?


It better be reliable since it's specified from the maker of the filter.
whistle.gif
 
When talking filter/gasket contact then advanced turn to set what one deems the proper seal/torque the different style gaskets from this one pictured a flat gasket material compared to a round o-ring I don't think there is no sure answer as to what is the correct method.

I stick to my guns, this is a defective gasket material, and if you have to lube/oil the gasket to prevent the seal from breaking that would deem it a material issue in itself. I always understood from a ignorant if nothing else standpoint that when you lube the gasket it prevents the gasket from bonding to the filter housing which can cause the gasket to stick to the filter housing, having a hard time getting the filter off, and also to help prevent an oil leak... but I just don't see the gasket material requiring lube to prevent the material from tearing !!

I would also venture to say that on a new engine that the oil filter gasket/seal is not lubed when installed.. I think it's a great idea, and I myself lube the gasket/ o-ring when installing, however if it were that important the manufacture would prelube the gasket material to eliminate any problems like this.
 
But there is a "correct method". That's why I go by the tightening spec on the box ... because the gasket and thread pitch (which determines how far the filter moves per turn) are different between different filters. Sounds like people would just rather "wing it" instead of using the manufacture's instructions. No wonder some people have issues associated with tightening an oil filter.
lol.gif
 
There has been increased interest on this site to try to find a defect in a Wix filter. I handle more filters than most and have not seen one. I'm not saying they have zero defects but they do a pretty good job of controlling quality right here in the center of N.C. I have never seen a "brittle" gasket even after it's been on a hot engine for 10-20K miles. Not on any kind of oil filter. This whole thing smells of a gasket that got bumped out of it's rail and was tightened down thus cutting it in two.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
But there is a "correct method". That's why I go by the tightening spec on the box ... because the gasket and thread pitch (which determines how far the filter moves per turn) are different between different filters. Sounds like people would just rather "wing it" instead of using the manufacture's instructions. No wonder some people have issues associated with tightening an oil filter.
lol.gif



I'll let you in on a little secret if you promise not to tell the repair police. I don't torque my oil plug to spec, nor other low risk bolts... Shhhh. It's our little secret, even though it's on the box. LOL
 
This is a perfect example of why the first thing do after startup is to observe the filter for a few moments after oil pressure is up. Most times for me, the pan is still under the filter when I do it. Installer error? Hey we're human! Manufacturing defect? Well, they're human too. Doesn't matter. Either way, fecal matter occurs! Double check!
 
beautiful car!!! i dont use wix filters for my application(subaru 2.5) because for that application the filter is pretty small and with wix's bypass being on top the filter media is REALLY short.
 
After playing with a spare QS filter I had downstairs.. I could see how..possibly.. the gasket could have been rolled/push over during installation and then "cut" once enough force was applied.

I would think, though, if you're used to doing your own changes, you would feel something a little funny during the process if that was the case.

Still looks like installer error to me, I don't see how a properly installed/functioning filter would have an O-Ring fail like that..
 
Originally Posted By: lairdwd
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
But there is a "correct method". That's why I go by the tightening spec on the box ... because the gasket and thread pitch (which determines how far the filter moves per turn) are different between different filters. Sounds like people would just rather "wing it" instead of using the manufacture's instructions. No wonder some people have issues associated with tightening an oil filter.
lol.gif



I'll let you in on a little secret if you promise not to tell the repair police. I don't torque my oil plug to spec, nor other low risk bolts... Shhhh. It's our little secret, even though it's on the box. LOL


Well, good for you and good luck with that in the future.
lol.gif
I'll stick to my own proven out methods.
 
I myself thinking highly of wix filters, and the top end fram, purolator, M1 etc etc, however I also call it as I see it on this gasket problem. One more not the filter thread pitch has nothing to do with any problems like this, nor filter brand, the filter house/engine casting is threaded at a spec be it metric, or SAE, now different engines may have different thread pitch, but when purchasing different filters for the same engine you will not encounter a different thread pitch if you change filter brands.

You may however change the torque/feel based on the gasket material be it a flat gasket, o-ring for seal, and also based on how the filter registers on the boss ( what the filter base seats on).
 
Originally Posted By: rclint

You may however change the torque/feel based on the gasket material be it a flat gasket, o-ring for seal, and also based on how the filter registers on the boss ( what the filter base seats on).


That's why I keep saying people should refer to the tightening instructions from the filter maker listed on the box. A filter with X thread pitch may have different tightening specs depending on the gasket material and design. In other words, "Filter A" may only need 2/3 turn while "Filter B" may need 1 turn depending on the gasket material and design.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

N
Wix oil filter design philosophy
2
Replies
21
Views
624
Glenda W.
B
I just ordered some Wix oil filters.
2
Replies
30
Views
3K
proffittmarke
Nuclear_42
Wix 57055 C&P "Disappointment"
2 3
Replies
45
Views
1K
daman
Passport1
Oil Filters, Tale of Woe
2
Replies
21
Views
944
GI_GRIFF
C
Filter for Dodge Challenger Hellcat RedEye 6.2L
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
Counsel
Back
Top Bottom