Winter Waxing

[harbor]

Just had a gorgeous Fall week-end here in southeastern Michigan, and besides getting the house & lawn ready for another lovely Mich. winter, I thought I'd better get my new Pacifica ready also.

Put on a heavy coat of Nu-Finish, Rain-X on all windows,and treated the rubber with 303 Protectant. Any other "get ready" tips from you guys in colder climes,.. i.e. Minn. or Canada?

 

[Chris B.]

I really like NuFinish. It out lasts most others by a good margin. I used it on an Impala that sit outside for almost 9 months and it still beaded like it was just put on! I still need to use the 303 stuff. I hear it is great! You also might want to treat your weatherstriping. I use dieletric grease on mine and it keep it nice and quiet in the winter and protects it 100% also. It is a pain to use though and can get meassy.

 

[BadBatsuMaru]

I like NuFinish, too. I should probably put some on before winter.

Does anybody have some good tips for removing the dried gray patches that get on rubber, though? When I see some dried spots between body panels, I can usually get in there and rub the NuFinish off, but how do you clean up plastic and rubber? I've heard people suggest castor oil, cooking oil, etc. Any personal opinions?

Also, I've got a lot of tiny nicks in the clearcoat on the nose of the car. You couldn't see them at all before because they don't even go all the way through the clearcoat, but the NuFinish dries in there, and when you're really close to the car you see tons of gray speckles now. How do you deal with this? How do I get it out? How do I prevent it from getting in there next time I use NuFinish? I had originally thought that the purpose of a clay bar was to fill in tiny spots like this and smooth everything out before you use a sealer, but have come to find out that clay bars are really just to clean up small pieces dirt. Any ideas?

BTW, I'm colorblind, so feel free to correct me if NuFinish isn't actually gray.

 

[BadBatsuMaru]

From the other thread, I see that peanut oil, baby oil, and wheel cleaner all work well on the plastic and rubber... but that doesn't help with keeping it out of the little nicks.

 

[Patman]

I use the no touch car washes in the winter, so putting on a coat of wax in the fall is useless for me, since those car washes eat through any type of wax within 2 or 3 washings, even Zaino can't stand up to their harsh detergents.

 

[VeeDubb]

Anybody have any suggestions about cleaning underneath the car in the winter. I've heard that car washes are no good since they use recycled water which just spreads more salt underneath. Sorry if this is an ignorant question. I've lived in California most of my life and am pretty clueless about dealing with the harsher elements. HeIl, I just learned what an ice scraper was last year

 

[Chris B.]

quote:

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Originally posted by VeeDubb:
Anybody have any suggestions about cleaning underneath the car in the winter. I've heard that car washes are no good since they use recycled water which just spreads more salt underneath. Sorry if this is an ignorant question. I've lived in California most of my life and am pretty clueless about dealing with the harsher elements. HeIl, I just learned what an ice scraper was last year

---

I wash once a week in the winter under my car. I just use the garden hose and throughly wash the undercarrage.

 

[BadBatsuMaru]

Yeah, the garden hose is the best thing, unless your hose is frozen solid.

I also use the no-touch car washes in the winter. I figured that was taboo in enthusiast circles, but I guess you guys are more interested in oil.

I don't see a problem with popping quarters in the car wash down the street in the winter, though. I don't know about the wax there, though. I only use the high-pressure wash soap, high-pressure rinse, then the spot-free rinse for at least a full minute. It's definitely important to stay several feet back from your car when using the high-pressure stuff, though. Spray your hand and you'll see this is VERY high pressure. I have actually chipped paint off my car when I got too close.

It's important to find a car wash that has a good spot-free rinse. I've been to 3 car washes in my town. One has a spot-free rinse that just drips out and is useless. One has a spot free rinse that leaves spots. And one actually has a good one. If the spot-free rinse dries in the sun without leaving spots, you can be confident that there isn't any salt being recycled.

 

[4DSC]

quote:

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Originally posted by BadBatsuMaru:
I like NuFinish, too. I should probably put some on before winter.

Does anybody have some good tips for removing the dried gray patches that get on rubber, though? When I see some dried spots between body panels, I can usually get in there and rub the NuFinish off, but how do you clean up plastic and rubber? I've heard people suggest castor oil, cooking oil, etc. Any personal opinions?

---

Yeah, I have a solution - stop using Nu Finish!

Besides the horrid smell, this is another reason why I don't like the stuff. It's more prone to staining trim than other waxes. That's both personal opinion and what others have said as well.

 

[BadBatsuMaru]

quote:

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Originally posted by 4DSC:
Yeah, I have a solution - stop using Nu Finish!

Besides the horrid smell, this is another reason why I don't like the stuff. It's more prone to staining trim than other waxes. That's both personal opinion and what others have said as well.

---

Any wax will stain. Regular wax just happens to wash away on its own eventually. This certainly isn't a good argument against using NuFinish, though. What would you suggest using as a sealant/protector? Polyurethane that holds up all year seems to be a pretty good thing to me.

 

[4DSC]

quote:

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Originally posted by BadBatsuMaru:
Any wax will stain. Regular wax just happens to wash away on its own eventually. This certainly isn't a good argument against using NuFinish, though. What would you suggest using as a sealant/protector? Polyurethane that holds up all year seems to be a pretty good thing to me.

---

A good wax or sealant will not stain trim unless the trim is rough and cracked with age. Some very long lasting products will not stain trim (even if you try) but will outlive Nu Finish by a large margin. I've never known why this cheap and dirty wax seems to have so many fans that think it's so long lasting... From my own testing, some other tests, and comments on other forums, the durability of Nu Finish isn't anything special, the consensus being about average. It's not exceptionally easier to apply or buff either, so the only advantage I can see for it is availability and cost (sometimes). A bottle (or tin) of wax lasts so long anyway that I'd pick one of the Mothers or Meguiar's (especially from their Pro line) products instead of Nu Finish. If you want really long lasting protection you'll have to look a bit harder yet...

I don't know what's exactly in Nu Finish, but it's probably not polyurethane... actually I'm pretty sure I've never heard of a wax or sealant that contains that. Since Nu Finish is a really old product (and assuming they haven't changed their formula much) it's probably one of the older silicone oils or petroleum derrived artificial waxes, much like some of the other really old formulas like Liquid Glass and Blue Coral. That's just some speculation on Nu Finish though.

Anyway, I'd just like to note that some "carnauba" waxes have really great durability, while some "synthetic" or "polymer" products have turned out to be quite disappointing because of all the different ingredients available and ways they can be blended. Don't be afraid to experiment a little and ask around some detailing sites about different products. However, if you're completely happy with what you're using and don't have any issues with it, then by all means stick with it.

Sorry for the late reply.

 

[Marshall Booth]

To clean the underside of the car I drive SLOWLY over a lawn sprinkler if it's not too cold outside - or if it's really cold outside take the sprinkler into the garage and slowly pull the hose to the sprinkler under the car.

Nu-Finish has worked well for me in Pittsburgh for more than 15 years

Marshall

 

[Pete]

Just use 3M Glaze...available at Pep Boys or online... It lasts months... Top with a carnuba wax, if you like, like 1000 Grand.

 

[bretfraz]

quote:

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Originally posted by Pete:
Just use 3M Glaze...available at Pep Boys or online... It lasts months... Top with a carnuba wax, if you like, like 1000 Grand.

---

Do NOT use 3M glazes (or any glaze) as a final step. Like all glazes, this product is nothing more than fillers and oils designed to make your paint look glossy. They have no protective qualities at all. Think of glazes as makeup for your car's paint - it doesn't fix paint problems, it just covers them up.

If you are going to use a glaze be absolutely sure to top it with a wax. That will provide the protection the glaze is missing.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

What's the point of waxing? Sure your car looks nice, but lots of people act like it is a maintenance practice also. I don't see how. It can't prevent rust. All I see it doing is slowing the fade a bit. Probably more dependant on the paint itself more than anything though. So why should I waste my time?

 

[Bror Jace]

Supposed to be 50F today ... and maybe even sunny. With rain forecasted until Sunday, I'm taking the afternoon off and waxing my black Nissan Spec-V.

Jason, if the paint dries out, fades, cracks and peels, it eposes the sheetmetal earlier than it should and that promotes rust.

--- Bror Jace

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

That might accelerate corrosion slightly...

But I've never seen that happen. What would it take about 50years at least.

The only time I have cracked paint was when I had a brainstorm to take my car to an automatic car wash when it was below 0F outside. Heated water...can you say thermal shock. Found out the area had some bondo and was re-painted by a shop during the previous ownernship.

[ November 18, 2003, 01:58 PM: Message edited by: Jason Troxell ]

 

[4DSC]

No, regardless of paint quality or formula, if you stop waxing the car it will fade or turn chalky (depends) and look dull rather than shiny after a while depending on the environment. Keep it waxed and this won't happen. Waxing also makes the paint somewhat more resistant to chemical damage (like bird bombs).

 

[shortyb]

A winter maintenance tip that I use for washing under the car. If the hose isn't frozen, I use a product called Salt-Away. Its a flush thats used after boating in saltwater and it neutralizes the corrosive effects. They sell the starter kit with a mixer unit that attaches to the hose. I've been using it for about 7 years and have noticed little if any corrosion, especially on bare or light zinc-plated nuts and bolts. If its too cold, I take it to my buddy's heated shop. Just gotta remember to dry the door jambs before leaving. Don't ask how come I learned to do this

.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

Cool Shorty, now that sounds like a much better use of my time than waxing

Seriously, where do you get that?