Why would you NOT use 0W-xx?

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AZjeff

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I've read the long Oil 101-xx article on the home page several times. If the data presented is correct about viscosity at room temp and at operating temp then wouldn't the 0W oil get to where it needs to be fastest under all conditions at start up? I'm also really fascinated with the idea that 0W (& 5W) causes less wear on the starter, battery, alternator, etc because it's easier to spin and start the engine, as well as the low temp advantage.

What would be an argument against using 0W oil? (out of warranty vehicles)

thanks!
 
i can think of none, if they would have had 0/30 PU at walmart when i bought oil thats what i would be running.

even if a car is in warranty i would prefer a 0w oil for longer engine life or to keep it new longer however you want to say it.

im no expert here tho so lets see what they say..
 
A wider viscosity spread (for example, 0w40 vs 10w40) typically means that higher quality basestocks are needed, and/or VIIs. Sometimes the VIIs don't handle high stress well and allow the oil to shear down.

So technically while 0w40 and 10w40 should perform the same at high temps, it's more likely the 0w40 will eventually shear and become more of a 0w30.

Again, this is all dependent on the basestock and VIIs, if any. That's why some people opt for stuff like Redline or Renewable Lubricants. Those oils do not rely on many VIIs due to very good basestocks and hence don't fall all out their viscosity grade much.
 
I always thought that on oil with a larger base number (a 10W as opposed to a 0W) meant that less viscosity improvers were used,giving you "more real oil" per se.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I always thought that on oil with a larger base number (a 10W as opposed to a 0W) meant that less viscosity improvers were used,giving you "more real oil" per se.


You are correct.
 
I see the argument for hot-climates as 0w doesn't mean too much in those locations. But otherwise, I do agree, there's no real reason to not use a 0w offering these days.

Heck, I use "the green", 0w30 in my lawnmower. Yes, GC. Great stuff, 0w. Case closed.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ToyotaNSaturn
I see the argument for hot-climates as 0w doesn't mean too much in those locations.


I wish some others could figure this out, too. Some in the "thin" crowd goes ballistic when presented with the fact of the matter.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
A wider viscosity spread (for example, 0w40 vs 10w40) typically means that higher quality basestocks are needed, and/or VIIs. Sometimes the VIIs don't handle high stress well and allow the oil to shear down.

So technically while 0w40 and 10w40 should perform the same at high temps, it's more likely the 0w40 will eventually shear and become more of a 0w30.

Again, this is all dependent on the basestock and VIIs, if any. That's why some people opt for stuff like Redline or Renewable Lubricants. Those oils do not rely on many VIIs due to very good basestocks and hence don't fall all out their viscosity grade much.

^^ This.

Some key things I would like to emphasize:

1. It could mean better base stocks OR lots of VIIs, or some combination thereof. It depends on the oil.
2. Key phrase in the second paragraph: "more likely." It's not a sure thing that a 0w-40 will shear where a 10w-40 won't; it's just a greater possibility.
 
i run 0w30 in my cars in the winter, in the summer for towing i run 5w 40 in the suv and truck. The 0w30 does not have enough hths to suit me for towing.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I wish some others could figure this out, too. Some in the "thin" crowd goes ballistic when presented with the fact of the matter.

What does 0w have to do with thinness?
 
According to the charts in the article 0w30 has a viscosity of 40 @ 75 deg and 10 @ 212 deg. Even at 120 deg in summer in Phoenix 0W oil is still thicker than at operating temp according to the data presented. Does anyone dispute the numbers given? Granted 10W has worked fine in Texas and Arizona but could 0W be even better?
 
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Is it thinness or is the viscosity, flow
What about oil burners - wouldn't a 0w-xx may not always be best? I know an oil burner is not the best excuse, more in need of repair
 
The only reason not to is price.
I would use 0w30 on all my cars if it were available and on sale often.
But it's not.
Otherwise it's the best of all worlds!
 
It was mentioned in here that larger spreads need more VII's, but I was under the impression that synthetics didn't use VII's or at least not enough to really speak of? So 0w30 vs 10w30 may not apply because there are no dino 0w-30's.
 
Shearing and basestock quality requirements drive the cost structure for 0w- lubes. While it is a good estimate that a 0w will always flow better, this is not a guarantee. A 5 or 10w- may flow better at a reasonable ambient temperature due to the way that the slopes of the viscosity vs temperature (and VI I suppose) change.

Unless someone has a good paper documenting this in a temperature-controlled rheometer, this may still be an unknown outside of some basic rules.
 
How about the fact 0W-whatevers will burn more oil in a high mileage engine. I can tell you for a fact in my 97 LC the 10w-40 burns a lot of less oil compared to the 0w-40 per se.
 
Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
How about the fact 0W-whatevers will burn more oil in a high mileage engine. I can tell you for a fact in my 97 LC the 10w-40 burns a lot of less oil compared to the 0w-40 per se.

Which 0w-40 was it? Not all of them result in increased oil consumption...
 
Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
I don't know but you could bet I only run 1 kind of oil...

Yeah, and that is the one kind that is known for "disappearing" quickly in some applications.
 
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