Why isnt there more love for Quaker State?

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by kstanf150
The worst engine I've ever cracked open was a 1978 Chevy 305 (this was back in 1988) that according to the original owner the only oil ever used was Valvoline.
The sludge was so bad the oil drains at each end of the heads was almost closed shut....it was a mess.
Proves all oils have limits


What it proves it not all cars are maintained as they should be.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by kstanf150
The worst engine I've ever cracked open was a 1978 Chevy 305 (this was back in 1988) that according to the original owner the only oil ever used was Valvoline.
The sludge was so bad the oil drains at each end of the heads was almost closed shut....it was a mess.
Proves all oils have limits


What it proves it not all cars are maintained as they should be.


Quoted for truth!

 

[Newman88]

I used it back in the day when they had the clear bottles in my Honda hatch with a B16B swap, that car got abused so bad, (it was my daily/drag/ and saw constant 8-9k RPM daily, changed the oil every 4k and the inside of the engine was clean. Wish I would of known oil sampling back then, I would of send some samples to see how the internals were doing. When I sold the car I put over 50k plus what ever that engine had before.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by slomo
Originally Posted by atikovi
Auto tech teacher years ago (early 80's) said to avoid all motor oil from Pennsylvania sourced crude so no Pennzoil or Quaker State. Don't remember why but assume it only applies to conventional anyway.


Couldn't disagree more.



Originally Posted by slomo
Just to be fair, all oils did this back in the day. Penzoil yellow bottle was the worst for paraffin sludge buildup.


So you're contradicting yourself?


No he is saying if you used any motor oil 4 decades ago or earlier it would cause sludge.


Any motor used today can cause sludge too if not changed frequently enough. And it could be argued that 4 decades ago cars ran cooler so sludge formed easier. Not really the oil's fault.

 

[DirectRejection]

Originally Posted by ad244
I recently changed the oil on a 2010 Civic and due to a time constraint I didn't have access to my usual stash and Wallyworld is clear across town. So after a trip to auto zone, I grabbed a 5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26 which I didn't think was too horrible of a deal. Amazingly, my subjective butt test shows the engine runs smoother now than it ever has. Time will tell how the oil holds up but I was impressed with how smooth it ran using this oil.

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by ad244
I recently changed the oil on a 2010 Civic and due to a time constraint I didn't have access to my usual stash and Wallyworld is clear across town. So after a trip to auto zone, I grabbed a 5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26 which I didn't think was too horrible of a deal. Amazingly, my subjective butt test shows the engine runs smoother now than it ever has. Time will tell how the oil holds up but I was impressed with how smooth it ran using this oil.

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

So inferior its TBN was still at 2.9 in my 5030 mile UOA.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by ad244
I recently changed the oil on a 2010 Civic and due to a time constraint I didn't have access to my usual stash and Wallyworld is clear across town. So after a trip to auto zone, I grabbed a 5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26 which I didn't think was too horrible of a deal. Amazingly, my subjective butt test shows the engine runs smoother now than it ever has. Time will tell how the oil holds up but I was impressed with how smooth it ran using this oil.

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

So inferior its TBN was still at 2.9 in my 5030 mile UOA.


Red herring? TBN has essentially nothing to do with the base oil, that's why you can have a cheap Group I/II 15w-40 with a TBN of 12 last a bazillion miles.

 

[DirectRejection]

Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by ad244
I recently changed the oil on a 2010 Civic and due to a time constraint I didn't have access to my usual stash and Wallyworld is clear across town. So after a trip to auto zone, I grabbed a 5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26 which I didn't think was too horrible of a deal. Amazingly, my subjective butt test shows the engine runs smoother now than it ever has. Time will tell how the oil holds up but I was impressed with how smooth it ran using this oil.

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

So inferior its TBN was still at 2.9 in my 5030 mile UOA.


Red herring? TBN has essentially nothing to do with the base oil, that's why you can have a cheap Group I/II 15w-40 with a TBN of 12 last a bazillion miles.


I love QSUD...just love it...exceedingly adequate.

Missed you in the Canadian/Russkie thread, hating on SOPUS.

 

[OVERKILL]

I don't hate on SOPUS, they just aren't my brand of choice. I ran PU in both my Charger and the Jeep briefly, I just prefer a PAO-based lube.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection
Originally Posted by ad244
I recently changed the oil on a 2010 Civic and due to a time constraint I didn't have access to my usual stash and Wallyworld is clear across town. So after a trip to auto zone, I grabbed a 5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26 which I didn't think was too horrible of a deal. Amazingly, my subjective butt test shows the engine runs smoother now than it ever has. Time will tell how the oil holds up but I was impressed with how smooth it ran using this oil.

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

So inferior its TBN was still at 2.9 in my 5030 mile UOA.


Red herring? TBN has essentially nothing to do with the base oil, that's why you can have a cheap Group I/II 15w-40 with a TBN of 12 last a bazillion miles.


Really Red herring with Fe at 4 PPM and AL at 2 PPM don't think so.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection

Obviously, it's because of inferior basestocks.

So inferior its TBN was still at 2.9 in my 5030 mile UOA.


Red herring? TBN has essentially nothing to do with the base oil, that's why you can have a cheap Group I/II 15w-40 with a TBN of 12 last a bazillion miles.


Really Red herring with Fe at 4 PPM and AL at 2 PPM don't think so.


And what does that have to do with your statement about base oil? or TBN? I think you've lost the plot. I'm not taking a shot, so you can get your back down, I was simply stating that your comment about TBN had no relation to the remark about base oil. Similarly, your current comment about wear metals in a UOA doesn't tie into those things either.

 

[pdxglocker9mm]

Lack of rebates
A few years ago when i first joined here
I was getting the quaker state full synthetic for about or just under $2 per quart.With rebate.
Then i scored some mobil super synthetic for 1.60 a quart. With rebate. Now I usually find Pennzoil platinum is the best deal i can find for about $2/qt with rebate. With all of the oils the car in question has had over the years
Mobil 1, super 5000, super synthetic, mobil semi synthetic from 2006?, castrol gtx
Qs full synthetic, Pennzoil platinum,
Napa synthetic, napa conventional, super tech, valvoline next gen, auto zone synthetic, chevron supreme. Gm Dealer bulk, phillips 66 Semi synthetic?.
In all of the 120k of oil changes I cant really say any one oil was drastically different. I never noticed one quieter, no major change in fuel mileage. No consumption. The toyota 1.8l just does its thing and I get from point A to B.
So i keep it as simple and cheap as possible.
Cheap upfront price or a cheap price after rebate.

 

[ChemLabNL]

QSUD has high moly and boron so it will run smooth.
QSUD 10w30 is an absolute bargain at your Walmarts.
Noack - 5.0

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by PimTac



No doubt it is a good oil but after seeing it being scraped out of a oil pan way back in the 70's just turned me off from the brand.



You said it....

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

In our Jeep 3.6 I have mainly used PP and QSUD, I typically buy whichever is on sale, but I think I prefer the QSUD. It is definitely quieter, I don't know if that actually means much. Pennzoil has $10 rebate in Canada and QS has $7, typically works out about the same cost wise.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Yep, buy what your engine likes best.

A couple days after I drove my new Hyundai home, I bought four brands of oil (Pennzoil - Mobil-1 - Valvoline and Castrol. Doing 5K OCIs after draining the factory-fill at 3K, by the time I reach 23k (four 5K OCIs), that engine will tell me which of the four brands it likes best.

Same M.O. with the oil filters. I will try four different brands..... (OEM - NAPA - Fram - Wix). There are three things to study from oil filter usage. then I'll pick the oil filter my Hyundai likes best. Not the one that I like best. Let your vehicle decide.

 

[geekster]

I think it's funny that for how "logical" most BITOGers tend to appear, we are just as susceptible to our own personal biases and beliefs. We look for facts to constantly back up our claims and beliefs. Yet, sometimes the facts don't matter.

After being a member and reading constantly on here the last 10 yrs I've concluded that as long as it meets the specs any modern oil is fine to use, regardless the brand.

 

[walterjay]

What people saw with any engine oil almost 50 years ago has absolutely no bearing whatsoever with the oils of today irrespective of brand.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted by geekster
I think it's funny that for how "logical" most BITOGers tend to appear, we are just as susceptible to our own personal biases and beliefs. We look for facts to constantly back up our claims and beliefs. Yet, sometimes the facts don't matter.

After being a member and reading constantly on here the last 10 yrs I've concluded that as long as it meets the specs any modern oil is fine to use, regardless the brand.


This and the bottom line price is King because no one I've meet on here can convince me their great better base oils are going to make my engine extend its life for 75K or 100K miles. .

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Yep, buy what your engine likes best.

A couple days after I drove my new Hyundai home, I bought four brands of oil (Pennzoil - Mobil-1 - Valvoline and Castrol. Doing 5K OCIs after draining the factory-fill at 3K, by the time I reach 23k (four 5K OCIs), that engine will tell me which of the four brands it likes best.

Same M.O. with the oil filters. I will try four different brands..... (OEM - NAPA - Fram - Wix). There are three things to study from oil filter usage. then I'll pick the oil filter my Hyundai likes best. Not the one that I like best. Let your vehicle decide.



But how will you know which oil your engine likes best? Or even more tough to figure out, how can you tell what filter it likes best?