Why Do Knowledgeable Folks on Here use 20 wt Oil

[ARCOgraphite]

Not true that you either use thick or thin, I have no problems using 0w-16 in my Toyota Camry, but turbo GDI Acura gets 5w-30 even though it recommends 0w-20. It all depends on the engine…

I never mention being in one camp or the other. Specific application and possibly specific unit variation should help guide your oil choice.

I too would be inclined run a quality, high HTHS real synthetic 30 grade in your Acura, given the torque to displacement of that engine and given the way I would drive it.

A decade ago, My 1.5L Honda Fit Sport MT VTEC engine enjoyed its diet of 0w20, and I heard nor felt any reason to vary - even with me bouncing off the rev limiter daily. It was a frantic daily commute GP. I have since slowed a bit - but I have my moments.

My Ford 2.0L Di engine dilutes the oil and makes nasty sounds - so it gets a viscosity bump up.

My wife's Crosstrek FB2.0 boxer is quite rackety but it would get doggy on 30 grade, so 0W20 it remains. Some comfort comes from the fact that she also purchased a 120K mile 6 year Bumper to Bumper Subaru extended service contract. She bought the last 6mt Crosstrek. She plans to keep it to near the 120K. Subaru are on the hook if something goes bang. I better double check she is doing ALL the book maintenance!

If you are a Horse(power) whisperer the engine will talk to you and guide your hand.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

That's me....

You didn't swap Artie for the Mitsu did you?!

 

[Zee09]

You didn't swap Artie for the Mitsu did you?!

I still have all three vehicles...
All washed yesterday too

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

How is the factory warranty up? Assuming 5Y/60Kmi powertrain.
Your signature says you are at approx. the three year /15k mile marker

If I waited to address the viscosity on my Lease VW turbo the engine would be in a basket.

But no noise = no worries can be a somewhat valid argument ... or owning a NA Honda.

Mazda warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles.

 

[CKN]

I never gave that much thought, so I really can't comment on that.

Well............it's painfully obvious to anybody who has been on this forum any length of time.

 

[demarpaint]

Well............it's painfully obvious to anybody who has been on this forum any length of time.

If you say so.

 

[Hermann]

Cough cough. CAFE brainwash runs deeper.

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https://owners-manual.mazda.com/gen/en/cx-30/cx-30_8jr4eo20f/contents/07030400.html

Not being a thickie or a thinny I just don't see the millions of cars that should be littering the side of the road as these poor cars fall to the wayside. Was only pointing out that the fear is deep rooted. Is their a chance the luddites on this board might be brainwashing you.. IMO YMIV

 

[Leo99]

Apparently, afaik, it's a 'blend' by Warren Oil - although, this is in Canada - in the USA, it's probably the same? Is that considered acceptable here, do you know? I guess it's okay with you....

I bought Supertech last time - for some reason, iirc, I concluded it was acceptable since I bought the 'full synthetic.' It was the cheapest, by a lot. For e.g., now it's $29 for a 5L jug and the next cheapest 'brand' oil 5L jug is QS FS. I have bought that in the past - also, I've bought the Pennzoil FS before....but, these are $37 and up. So, I guess my question is, is the Supertech fine and not worth it to spend an extra $10 for one of the other brands?

It meets various specifications including the ones that my engines require. That is good enough for me. I'm not going to second guess the subject matter experts that analyze and set the oil specifications.

 

[Kalle.J]

Not being a thickie or a thinny I just don't see the millions of cars that should be littering the side of the road as these poor cars fall to the wayside. Was only pointing out that the fear is deep rooted. Is their a chance the luddites on this board might be brainwashing you.. IMO YMIV

Would not expect them to be on the side of the road.
Might be the cars that end up not clearing smog test (prematurely) and in Europes case being exported to Africa or some other place
YMIV = YMMV?

 

[Hermann]

Would not expect them to be on the side of the road.
Might be the cars that end up not clearing smog test (prematurely) and in Europes case being exported to Africa or some other place
YMIV = YMMV?

Your mileage is variable.

 

[KrisZ]

Using thin oil brings back too many traumatic memories.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??

The answer is found HERE

 

[CKN]

Would not expect them to be on the side of the road.
Might be the cars that end up not clearing smog test (prematurely) and in Europes case being exported to Africa or some other place
YMIV = YMMV?

The average vehicle on the road is 12.5 years of age. Impossible to know how many are running a "thin" oil. However safe to say there are many. They are not being shipped out. Any vehicle taken off the road is because repairs FAR EXCEED value of the vehicle and are usually junked.

My son drives a 20 plus year old BMW (loves the car BTW)- but there are a number of things that would send it to the junkyard. The catalytic converter is just one.
It isn't going to the mid east when it happens.

 

[FTTSHO]

Whenever “Why use 20wt oil” discussion pops up, I like to tell people actual proof that 20wt oils are more than adequate for regular driving with a reasonable oci.

My 2010 Ford Taurus SHO with the 3.5 Ecoboost twin turbo engine, have always used 5w20 or 0w20 ever since I bought the car in 2010. The reason why I have used 20wt is because ford actually recommends 5w20 for the 2010 3.5 Ecoboost. Back then I wasn’t on bitog, and i didn’t even know about bitog. I was just “that guy” that would only use manufacturer recommended fluids, because the owners manual says so, and that what I went with.

I’ve been on Bitog only for a couple years now, and yes I’ve read my posts on how thicker oils are better. But my argument is, how much better is it, if my 3.5 Ecoboost has been perfectly fine with 20wt for the past 120k miles, along with millions of other cars on the road?

The car now has over 120,000 miles, and I’m happy to report that I have the original cam phasers, and timing chains. The only time the engine was taken apart was at around 85k miles to replace the internal water pump. When we took everything apart then, the timing chains, cam phasers, camshafts, and everything was perfect. It did not need replacing because I used 20wt, it didn’t need to be replaced because the oil was changed often!

The engine still runs great at 120k miles, and my scan tool shows that the cam phasers are still as good as new. No startup rattles, or any weird engine noises. Runs super smooth.

I personally believe that using manufacturer recommended oil viscosity is perfectly fine. The thing that really matters is how often you are changing the oil. I change mine at 4-5k miles, using regular full synthetic from Mobil 1, pennzoil, and Valvoline.

I mostly trust manufacturers oil viscosity recommendations, but I do not trust their oci recommendations.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Mazda warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Not being a thickie or a thinny I just don't see the millions of cars that should be littering the side of the road as these poor cars fall to the wayside. Was only pointing out that the fear is deep rooted. Is their a chance the luddites on this board might be brainwashing you.. IMO YMIV

Oh, Hermann, stop it! with the old worn axiom, "... millions of cars littering the side of the road ..."

You know someone will swifty steal them or tow them away before you could even count them.
Then did someone ask, was it the transmission? The exhaust falling off? Axle slid out? Fuel leak and caught fire? Just camping in the median after a long drive up from Cuba?

I have driven north up i75 in SW FLA and oh the humanity, the carnage!

 

[53' Stude]

Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??

I use 10w20 oil without issues.

 

[wemay]

Honda recommends 0W20 now?
I was looking at Supertech (*Walmart - Warren Oil - is this bad?) and Motomaster. Thoughts?
I have to do an oil change soon...like in the next few days.

Both those oils are perfectly fine.

 

[Bill7]

My cars are speced for 20 weight oil, but I use 5W-30 due to it's higher HTHS.
Extra protection at no additional cost. Whats not to like?

 

[53' Stude]

I wonder why at my work we use 5w30 demos spec oil.