I believe the synthetic has a higher VI than conventional, so a syn blend avoids some of the need for VII, which can break down and cause sludge, so overall keeps engine cleaner than conventional oil.
Cost is the main factor. I used Motorcraft for years and its a good oil *shrug*Not a trick question. I really am curious to know the reasoning or appeal of buying a blend vs conventional or a full synthetic product .
Do any synthetic blend products actually list the ratio of synthetic to conventional oil on the label ?
Is there any way for a consumer to know if they are getting a 50% / 50% blend or a 1% / 99% blend ?
Z
Which approvals for everyday cars? Dexos is only for gm vehicles. Most new cars call out gf6 api SP which syn blends meet. Yes, weights such as 0w20 and 0w16 are only available in syn for the most part.Today group 3 synthetics are cheap enough not to waste time with blends
or even conventionals. Yes, it's approvals what counts, but most approvals
you really want are commonly found on synthetics.
I was going to say the same thing. I've read "synthetic blend" on the backs of a few "conventionals." So buy a conventional and you might be buying a blend making your question somewhat moot.I wouldn’t go out of my way to find and use a synthetic blend. In fact most if not all conventional oils are synthetic blends. They do that to meet the latest certifications.
Why should I use full synthetic for a 2,000 mile interval?
Which approvals for everyday cars?
Ah ok, since most of the cars on the road are bmws, vws, mbzs, and Porsche’s. Those are some of the biggest volume manufacturers, right?Because you could run 5,000 mile intervals? Why would anyone run 2,000 mile intervals except on a 1950 Jaguar XK120?
VW 504 00, BMW LL-01/04, MB 229.5, Porsche A40/C40 just to name a few.
.
Does a synthetic blend leak less?I'm afraid of leaks on high mileage vehicles and figure I have slightly less of a chance on a blend vs a full syn of springing a leak.
I'm afraid of leaks on high mileage vehicles and figure I have slightly less of a chance on a blend vs a full syn of springing a leak.
Ah ok, since most of the cars on the road are bmws, vws, mbzs, and Porsche’s. Those are some of the biggest volume manufacturers, right?
I mean I guess it depends on the blend but even going from a blend that likely was more synthetic (Motorcraft) to Supertech conventional, my mom's car went from leaking a quart every 1500 miles and smelling quite a lot from the leak to leaking a quart every 2500 or so and not smelling much. It's too early to tell with Maxlife, but I had a jug left for an OCI for my Fusion that's grounded from an electrical issue, so I figured use it.Myth.
You can easily 'tune' a synthetic to any desired aniline point (e.g. by
adding some esters) and that's what matters with regard to seals.
Aniline point - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Volkswagen surely is. Who's bigger? However does it even matter
for the question what reputable approvals are? Does it matter for
the fact that all more demanding approvals require the use group 3
base oils at least? That's been my point and I guess there's nothing
wrong with that.
.
I mean I guess it depends on the blend but even going from a blend that likely was more synthetic (Motorcraft) to Supertech conventional, my mom's car went from leaking a quart every 1500 miles and smelling quite a lot from the leak to leaking a quart every 2500 or so and not smelling much.
Same here- the local shop near my work charges $40 for a 5w-30 syn blend oil change on my '12 Rav4. Full syn is $60-65. I get it changed every 5-6K and haven't had any issues. I'd do it myself but I usually don't have time to do it, plus the shop I go to has been good to me for the last 25 years or so. I get to do plenty of PM's on our OPE at work. The Bobcat Toolcat is a fun one (not).There is no industry standard for what defines a syn blend. I use a syn blend because my mechanic charges $30 for an oil change on my 4runner with syn blend API SP. Full syn runs $55 so it's not worth it to me.
Is it even possible to make a 5W20 that will meet current specs from purely conventional oil?Except for 10w-40, 20w-50 and straight 30; most oils are already syn-blends to meet API SP. I think most quality 15w-40’s are blends as well.
Very, very little true ‘conventional’ oils out there now.
Because you could run 5,000 mile intervals? Why would anyone run 2,000 mile intervals except on a 1950 Jaguar XK120?
Maybe you didn't read my post. I drive the Ridgeline 2,000 miles a YEAR. Annual oil changes work for me. Do you advocate changing it every 2-3 years?