What is HTHS ??? AND WHAT IS A GOOD VALUEI frequently buy and use various synthetic blends of 10w40 in the warmer months, the price is good, the specs are good, and I change my oil every 3k so it makes no difference to me.
I don't really get hung up on the synthetic vs blend or even conventional, lots of synthetic oil is really just extremely hydrocracked petroleum, I don't think any real conventional exists nowadays and among major brands synthetic is really just a marketing term. A good example is Castrol Edge synthetic 10w-40 vs Valvoline Maxlife 10w-40 blend. Both have similar pour points, viscosity index, and CCS numbers, but that Valvoline has an HTHS of 4, while the Castrol is 3.6, IMO that alone shows the Valvoline is superior, despite not being "fully synthetic".
What is HTHS ??? AND WHAT IS A GOOD VALUE
Phillips 66 - Shield Choice 10W30 synthetic blend made to API SP standard, and sold at a good price, and used for a sensible interval of 7k miles.
I think a lot of the 0W synthetic craze is a combination of fuel economy regulations and the long oil change interval many manufacturers push nowadays. If Jim Bob drives 3 miles to work every day in below freezing weather running dino 15w-40 and only changes his oil every 10k he'll get terrible fuel economy and his engine will probably sludge up.Most engines don't require fancy "approval" oils ... People and definitely most on bitog, get somewhat scared and want to use the "best" oil and oil companies know that and they try to milk the consumer.
If it's cheaper (high volume) for them to make "synthetic" (real definition of which is a mystery) and have a bigger profit margin, then they'll push that.
race car drivers need syn so will you and your little Accord or Corolla for racing at the top speed of 50mph going to work ...
dino or blend profit margin is probably not much in US, so it's going out the door ... while the rest of the world still uses dino.
I've had many cars going over 200K, 300K and even 400K miles using 10W-40 dino even during very cold winter temps in Idaho but these days if you don't use 0W syn over there, they'll send you to jail.
Schaeffer's 7000 Blend (75% GII+ / 25% GIV PAO) routinely held up to extended drains. The Pennzoil Gold Blend (50% GIl+/50% GIII) did an admirable job as well.Not a trick question. I really am curious to know the reasoning or appeal of buying a blend vs conventional or a full synthetic product .
Do any synthetic blend products actually list the ratio of synthetic to conventional oil on the label ?
Is there any way for a consumer to know if they are getting a 50% / 50% blend or a 1% / 99% blend ?
There isn't a huge difference (if any) in wear or longevity between synthetic and blend so long as it's changed frequently. Semi trucks, cabs, and fleet vehicles can go hundreds of thousands of miles on conventional or blend 15w-40.Blends are still excellent oils, and probably better than oil 20 years ago. So particularly in older vehicles the blends are better than what it originally came with!
Blends make sense IMO for older and less valuable vehicles, or vehicles not driven extremely hard, vehicles for short trips, or not driven much were oil change frequencies occur based primarily on age (6-12 months) and oil with low miles on it is being dumped out.
Newer extremely expensive vehicles, or those driven hard, lots of miles between OCIs, etc. all justify the added costs of premium synthetics.