Who does cylinder deactivation well?

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Finally broke down and bought an S-VCM for the Pilot. Haven't had any oil burning after 109,000 miles, but the shudder was a tad annoying, and it threw a CEL for the VCM pressure switch last summer while I was towing my camper, though that hasn't returned. Figured I don't want to see how long the motor mounts last or to see if it starts burning oil.

After putting it in, the shudder is gone. What an improvement! No CELs so far, and it looks like it only made a slight droop in the temperature gauge. Supposedly the S-VCM is one of the better ones because if the temperature gets significantly above normal it will return to showing a true temperature reading so you know it's overheating.

So has anyone actually done cylinder deactivation well without the reliability problems and the unpleasant shudders and vibration?
 
The new Tahoe is seamless - I’ll worry about it later …
The 2017 worked fine - but with all the real (and other) feedback* - decided to put the Range module in at 52k …
The hardware remains - at 60k started to run 5W30 in that motor …
*concern over cam/lifters and torque converter …
 
Finally broke down and bought an S-VCM for the Pilot. Haven't had any oil burning after 109,000 miles, but the shudder was a tad annoying, and it threw a CEL for the VCM pressure switch last summer while I was towing my camper, though that hasn't returned. Figured I don't want to see how long the motor mounts last or to see if it starts burning oil.

After putting it in, the shudder is gone. What an improvement! No CELs so far, and it looks like it only made a slight droop in the temperature gauge. Supposedly the S-VCM is one of the better ones because if the temperature gets significantly above normal it will return to showing a true temperature reading so you know it's overheating.

So has anyone actually done cylinder deactivation well without the reliability problems and the unpleasant shudders and vibration?
GM by far has done deactivation well trust them and support GM
 
The Caprice worked well, but I got all the AFM/DOD stuff out of there early on. It does not save enough or any gas at all.
 
I think GM is idiotic with the C8 Corvette Stingray. You cannot turn off the AFM. Fuel economy, you know.

But you can engage all kinds of electronic helpers to let you go 0 to 60 in three seconds or even less.

My C7 Corvette, you could plug an AFM defeat device into your OBD2 port. But there is no such device compatible with the C8.

In my C8 I can custom adjust the suspension, steering, throttle tip in on the fly. But cannot elect to stay in V8 full time when I want to?
 
LoL, "FPNI"

First post nailed it.

It's a cult-ish thing at arfcom and other leading forums for the "FP" (first post) or second "2PNI," "second pni," etc. to just hit it, kill it on a subject. It's really a great forum virtue. Slacktide killed this. Kudus, bro. FPNI
 
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LoL, "FPNI"

First post nailed it.

It's a cult-ish thing at arfcom and other leading forums for the "FP" (first post) or second "2PNI," "second pni," etc. to just hit it, kill it on a subject. It's really a great forum virtue. Slacktide killed this. Kudus, bro. FPNI
People here whine on about cylinder deactivation almost as much as they do about auto stop/start.
 
Eric on the youtube channel “I Do Cars” has shown plenty of engines that have effectively disabled cylinders. I would say I’ve seen examples from each make, so, they are equally good at deactivating cylinders.

Now reactivating…
 
People here whine on about cylinder deactivation almost as much as they do about auto stop/start.
The Jag in my avatar has stop-start. It generally works, but the other day, it shut down the engine and put itself in park! When it was time to go, it wouldn't. That was embarrassing.

The car has a button on top of the shifter that engages park. And a secondary window type button on the center console that engages/disengages park. I had to use that one to get it out of park and get going. Of course, the various horns of annoyed drivers behind me were blaring by that time.
 
I’m not a fan of either start/stop or cylinder deactivation. The hemis are just fine and imo not a contributor to lifter failure.

Now it’s questionable whether it actually per unit does any thing worthwhile. I’m guessing It’s one of those CAFE deals where .07 mpg gain over 100k units helps their numbers
 
only rarely could i notice any change in my 2012 Charger. Usually it was just the slight droning noise at certain rpms. My 2018 Tahoe is, in normal drive mode invisible. However, if it put it in tow mode, it'll drone at certain rpms.
 
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