Which wrench to use?

[metroplex]

I have an application where there is very limited clearance. I cannot stick a wrench right over the filter, nor can I use a cap wrench because one part of the filter is very close to the anti-sway bar.

I was wondering which wrench is heavy-duty and easy to use:

Or if you have a better tool in mind, please let me know!

 

[Patman]

Can you take a digital picture of your filter location so we can get a better idea of what you're up against? Could you not simply tighten your filters hand tight and then remove them later by hand?

 

[metroplex]

I dunno, I used to hand tighten them with a rubber glove and then I'd HAVE to use a wrench to remove it 3 months later.

I don't have a digital camera and my SLR doesn't have a macro lens so I can't really take a pic.

I'll try to describe it as BEST as I can

its a Ford small block (302 V8) so the oil filter is a horizontally mounted filter with a slight angle downards (on the driver side). The anti-sway bar is connected between the frame sidemembers and the lower control arms, but it does that "U" thing under the engine.

So one part of the bar is about 1/16" from contacting the oil filter's base (or top - the part that is flat and painted). There is no way of sticking in a slip wrench or a clamp wrench because of clearance issues around the filter and because of the 1/16" space.

The only way, from what I can see, is to use a chain type wrench where you connect it manually, or something that straps around the filter but is flexible enough to slip in.

Or tighten it by hand - but I am not sure how tight the filter should be. the box says after the gasket makes contact with the block, tighten 3/4 turn. Then 3 months later, I need a wrench to remove it.

 

[Patman]

That filter should be in an indentical location as the two 5.0L Mustangs I had, and not once did I ever have a problem removing an oil filter. IIRC I could fit a conventional strap wrench in there on the rare occasion that I couldn't get it by hand. I did the 3k/3mo oil change interval with those cars for the most part.

 

[metroplex]

your stangs did not have the hellwig anti-sway bars.

 

[labman]

I think the manufactures switched from hand tighten to the 3/4 to full turn because hand tighten covers a wide range for different people. I have always been able to tighten my filters to where they don't leak or come loose by hand, but need a tool to remove them. Back in the 60's I picked up 16'' Channelocks for $5. Great purchase, very versatile. You can ruin anything with it. I have bought various other tools for removing filters. I have a set of the chain Vicegrips. My 71 Valiant was a challenge with the clearance having a torsion bar running through the middle. The Vicegrips will turn anything. However they are slow and fiddly to grip things with. The Channelocks take up more room, and often I can't turn a filter very far at a time. Still after turning it a little, it is very easy to swing back and get another grip. I have used them on a number of cars. It works better where you can get a grip on one end or another instead of crushing the middle. So I have found they work as well as anything except on the cap for the cartridge on my Ecotec engine. You got to use a socket there.

Even if 16'' Channelocks are over $25, they might be worth it. They do great on the worst filters and can be used many other places.

 

[Scott P]

I jacked up the front end of my GP Tuesday night inpreparation to drain the Amsoil and fill with Penzoil and Auto-Rx. Not until I got it into the air and the jack stands underneath her that I realized I don't have a filter wrench in my new house. Luckily, I was able to spin the filter off by hand. I've always put my filters on hand tight. The only time I hada problem getting a filter off was when I got my 'lefty loosy, righty tighty' thing messed up...

 

[metroplex]

I'll give it a shot next time - in the meantime I bought a jaw style wrench from Walmart. The cap style worked REALLY WELL but it broke in half! With the FL-1A and the hellwig bars, I can't use the cap end anyhow.

I'll try removing it by hand but I got the jaws just in case. They'd also work better for my 4.6/5.4 engines.

 

[YZF150]

Use K&N filters. They have a 1" nut on the dome end. If you don't like K&N, weld a nut onto the filter of your choice.

 

[Touringpro]

This bad boy will handle your every filter removal need

:

It's actually a ChannelLock PVC pipe wrench, but I've never found anything that does a better job on oil filters.

 

[labman]

Yeah, the jaw type may work as well or better than the Channelocks at much lower price.

 

[Mystic]

What is a very effective oil filter wrench available for a reasonable cost that will fit into tight spots and remove and install (without damaging) any brand of oil filter?

 

[Scott P]

I don't know if there is such a tool. Cup-type filter wrenches fit certain situations while band-type ones fit others. Strap type ones are good many times too. The jaw-type ones need a degree of room to work, but offer great leverage. usually, you only need to break it a bit loose and it will spin off by hand after that.

I think you should be ok with a jaw-type and a strap or band-type based on your application.

Clear as mud, huh?

 

[metroplex]

is what I got at walmart for $2.47

It fits the FL-1A and FL-820-S w/o any problems, now the real test is to see if it fits the filter under the hood.

 

[Mystic]

It would be really nice to find a oil filter wrench that would fit all sizes and that could be used in tight places. Does anybody know of such a wrench?

 

[Swift]

I've been using the same jaw wrench for the last 15 yrs.

 

[metroplex]

Swift: you mean the jaw wrench in that picture?

 

[cryptokid]

usualy when i cant get an oil filter off by hand a stab through it with a screw driver and then use the screwdriver as a lever to turn the filter so that it spins off.

i only need to stab a filter if its not a car i previously worked on.

 

[Swift]

Yup.

 

[labman]

I have always been able to manage the 3/4 turn or at least enough my filter never leaked by hand. Of course, I always use oil on the gasket. If you need to use a tool, I would skip both the made for the purpose jaw type, and the Channelocks, even those nifty looking PCV ones. I would use a fabric strap wrench or the cup type sockets. Anything goes on removing them including the screwdriver.

A piece of rubber sheet or sandpaper greatly increases what you can do by hand. They fit all filters. Once the gasket hits the adapter, the grit is no problem.