Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
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Which sysnthetic for 2GR-FE?
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Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
I've run Vavoline, Halvoline, GTX and Pennzoil for hundreds of thousands of miles over 30 plus years and never had a problem.
And your point is?
Todays oils are better. If I can get 330k on a 4 cyl engine that ran anything that was on sale for 22 years across the desert (it is over 100 today, I've been over 115 many times over the years) in the below zero winters with never an issue, why waste the $$.
Oh I forgot, we only want the best. Anyone who runs that conventional garbage is killing their engine...
ANY 5w-20 will protect.
Bill
Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
I've run Vavoline, Halvoline, GTX and Pennzoil for hundreds of thousands of miles over 30 plus years and never had a problem.
And your point is?
Todays oils are better. If I can get 330k on a 4 cyl engine that ran anything that was on sale for 22 years across the desert (it is over 100 today, I've been over 115 many times over the years) in the below zero winters with never an issue, why waste the $$.
Oh I forgot, we only want the best. Anyone who runs that conventional garbage is killing their engine...
ANY 5w-20 will protect.
Bill
Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
The prices I'm talking about are everyday.
Sales make the difference even more.
Point is 5k OCIs, Syn is a waste. Not *needed*.
Wanted is another. But still a waste.
I'm not selling either. So I don't have a iron in the fire.
Bill
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
The prices I'm talking about are everyday.
Sales make the difference even more.
Point is 5k OCIs, Syn is a waste. Not *needed*.
Wanted is another. But still a waste.
I'm not selling either. So I don't have a iron in the fire.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
I've run Vavoline, Halvoline, GTX and Pennzoil for hundreds of thousands of miles over 30 plus years and never had a problem.
And your point is?
Todays oils are better. If I can get 330k on a 4 cyl engine that ran anything that was on sale for 22 years across the desert (it is over 100 today, I've been over 115 many times over the years) in the below zero winters with never an issue, why waste the $$.
Oh I forgot, we only want the best. Anyone who runs that conventional garbage is killing their engine...
ANY 5w-20 will protect.
Bill
I agree with you that 5-20 conventional will protect ok in most conditions but if you could get that extra "insurance" from a synthetic 30wt and you can afford it, I guess the question is why not?
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: foxer
Geez guys, like hes not the only one that thinks like this. Not everyone live for the BOGO sales or squirels away 3 years worth of oil changes..
No kidding. The guy sounds reasonable. His car sees 100 degree days so he wants something thicker than a 20wt. What's wrong with that? Just because you can get away with a 20 doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Also agreed that you will get much better mileage driving 10mph slower on the freeway than going from a 30 to a 20wt. Not to mention the car was originally spec'd for a 30 weight.
I run Amsoil ACD 30/10-30 in the TL that's spec'd for 5-20 because I see 100-115 degree summers and lots of freeway driving. It hasn't blown up yet lol.
I've run Vavoline, Halvoline, GTX and Pennzoil for hundreds of thousands of miles over 30 plus years and never had a problem.
And your point is?
Todays oils are better. If I can get 330k on a 4 cyl engine that ran anything that was on sale for 22 years across the desert (it is over 100 today, I've been over 115 many times over the years) in the below zero winters with never an issue, why waste the $$.
Oh I forgot, we only want the best. Anyone who runs that conventional garbage is killing their engine...
ANY 5w-20 will protect.
Bill
I agree with you that 5-20 conventional will protect ok in most conditions but if you could get that extra "insurance" from a synthetic 30wt and you can afford it, I guess the question is why not?
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
This last week, my sister had a water pump die while she was going down the road. The water temp shot up and the engine got so hot it actually shut down when she finally pulled over to a point she felt was safe.
Hot day, loaded up 200k plus Grand Caravan with kids and her oil? Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional with about 3500 miles on the OCI.
Replaced the water pump and lucky the heads did not warp
and she is on the road with no problems.
If you are buying syn because you think it will protect the engine to a issue like my sister had, you are kidding your self.
No oil is going to prevent a head or block from warping if it is going to warp.
And if you have a fuel problem, the only thing that will protect the engine is changing the oil. Any oil with lots of fuel is not a good protector.
Take care, Bill
BTW: your girlfriend gets the engine hot enough, she will have no choice to pull over and the ECM will kill the motor. If a per OBDII motor does it, I'll bet large amounts of $$ (out of state of course (after all I do live in Utah
) that OBD II will protect the emissions.
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
This last week, my sister had a water pump die while she was going down the road. The water temp shot up and the engine got so hot it actually shut down when she finally pulled over to a point she felt was safe.
Hot day, loaded up 200k plus Grand Caravan with kids and her oil? Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional with about 3500 miles on the OCI.
Replaced the water pump and lucky the heads did not warp
If you are buying syn because you think it will protect the engine to a issue like my sister had, you are kidding your self.
No oil is going to prevent a head or block from warping if it is going to warp.
And if you have a fuel problem, the only thing that will protect the engine is changing the oil. Any oil with lots of fuel is not a good protector.
Take care, Bill
BTW: your girlfriend gets the engine hot enough, she will have no choice to pull over and the ECM will kill the motor. If a per OBDII motor does it, I'll bet large amounts of $$ (out of state of course (after all I do live in Utah
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
This last week, my sister had a water pump die while she was going down the road. The water temp shot up and the engine got so hot it actually shut down when she finally pulled over to a point she felt was safe.
Hot day, loaded up 200k plus Grand Caravan with kids and her oil? Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional with about 3500 miles on the OCI.
Replaced the water pump and lucky the heads did not warp
and she is on the road with no problems.
If you are buying syn because you think it will protect the engine to a issue like my sister had, you are kidding your self.
No oil is going to prevent a head or block from warping if it is going to warp.
And if you have a fuel problem, the only thing that will protect the engine is changing the oil. Any oil with lots of fuel is not a good protector.
Take care, Bill
BTW: your girlfriend gets the engine hot enough, she will have no choice to pull over and the ECM will kill the motor. If a per OBDII motor does it, I'll bet large amounts of $$ (out of state of course (after all I do live in Utah
) that OBD II will protect the emissions.
I'm glad it turned out ok for her. Going by your posts there's no reason to run synthetic ever unless it's for 20,000 mile intervals which I don't agree with.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I would trust the syn 30wt a lot more if there is a fuel dilution issue, engine overheating, if the car is run hard, etc. My girlfriend drives my TL a lot more than I like and I know if something ever went wrong such as the engine overheating, she is not going to pull over and I have given up on teaching her so the synthetic gives me peace of mind on my near $40K car.
This last week, my sister had a water pump die while she was going down the road. The water temp shot up and the engine got so hot it actually shut down when she finally pulled over to a point she felt was safe.
Hot day, loaded up 200k plus Grand Caravan with kids and her oil? Pennzoil 5w-30 conventional with about 3500 miles on the OCI.
Replaced the water pump and lucky the heads did not warp
If you are buying syn because you think it will protect the engine to a issue like my sister had, you are kidding your self.
No oil is going to prevent a head or block from warping if it is going to warp.
And if you have a fuel problem, the only thing that will protect the engine is changing the oil. Any oil with lots of fuel is not a good protector.
Take care, Bill
BTW: your girlfriend gets the engine hot enough, she will have no choice to pull over and the ECM will kill the motor. If a per OBDII motor does it, I'll bet large amounts of $$ (out of state of course (after all I do live in Utah
I'm glad it turned out ok for her. Going by your posts there's no reason to run synthetic ever unless it's for 20,000 mile intervals which I don't agree with.
Reasons to go synthetic.
1. Arctic cold winter conditions . When it's so [censored] cold that your seat springs don't work and your tires have flat spots in them. (-30°f or so)
2. Turbo charged or other forced air systems that will not only stress oil in the turbocharger but will increase piston and ring temperatures due to the increased compression ratio.
3. The Manufacturer says so.
BMW, Corvette and others will often indicate specifications that require a synthetic oil be used. Follow the manufacturers recommendations in these cases.
4. Road Warrior. You spend more time driving than actually doing anything else and put on 20-30k miles a year and don't have time for much else. (extended drain traveling salesman scenario)..Note: with the advent of the Internet and telecommuting and internet sales possibilities and there cost effectiveness versus gasoline this scenario is becoming as obsolete as a Delta 88 .
Otherwise run conventional to the manufacturers recommendations and enjoy the superior protection of modern engine oils.
1. Arctic cold winter conditions . When it's so [censored] cold that your seat springs don't work and your tires have flat spots in them. (-30°f or so)
2. Turbo charged or other forced air systems that will not only stress oil in the turbocharger but will increase piston and ring temperatures due to the increased compression ratio.
3. The Manufacturer says so.
BMW, Corvette and others will often indicate specifications that require a synthetic oil be used. Follow the manufacturers recommendations in these cases.
4. Road Warrior. You spend more time driving than actually doing anything else and put on 20-30k miles a year and don't have time for much else. (extended drain traveling salesman scenario)..Note: with the advent of the Internet and telecommuting and internet sales possibilities and there cost effectiveness versus gasoline this scenario is becoming as obsolete as a Delta 88 .
Otherwise run conventional to the manufacturers recommendations and enjoy the superior protection of modern engine oils.
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if you liked the Series 2000, why not just use SSO or ASL?
I am the same way, I have money to burn and dont care how much the oil cost. Just want the best protection from overall wear that I can buy. Although, I did hit the roadcourse, and I am also turbocharged.
I was laughed at when I asked what to use, cost not an issue. I settled on Redline 10w30 and 10w40 for track use, and Amsoil ASL for daily driving.
Some people just dont care to save a buck....me being one of them. If you can afford it, why not buy what you feel is the best?
I am the same way, I have money to burn and dont care how much the oil cost. Just want the best protection from overall wear that I can buy. Although, I did hit the roadcourse, and I am also turbocharged.
I was laughed at when I asked what to use, cost not an issue. I settled on Redline 10w30 and 10w40 for track use, and Amsoil ASL for daily driving.
Some people just dont care to save a buck....me being one of them. If you can afford it, why not buy what you feel is the best?
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I have the 4GR-FSE (204HP, 2.5L, Direct Injection) in my IS250. I ran the FF to 5,000 miles, then ran M1 5W-30EP at 10K and 15K. I have run Amsoil SSO 0W-30 at 20K and 25K. I was happy with the M1 5W-30EP, Fe was 16 at 5K, which is acceptable. Due to the increasing prices of Amsoil, I may switch to the new M1 0W-30 Green cap. I live in Chicago which is not quite as hot as DC area, but I still am not comfortable running a 20 weight as I think that is too thin.
ben805
I have a 4 cyl Toyota pickup with 300,000 miles and a Chevrolet Cavalier with 202,000 miles in my driveway. Both used daily. The Cavalie has had Mobil 1 15W-50 since day one, the Toyota has had it for 250,000 miles. I have a 2008 Silverado pickup in the garage with 1856 miles. I waited until 500 miles to change it over.
My daughter has a Chrysler van that called for a 5W-20. It now has just at 116,000 with M1 15W-50. None of these vehicles use a drop of oil between OCI. All get better mileage than the EPA estimates, actually much better, no winter starting problems in Northern Va and Eastern KY.
I change oil and filter at 3000 miles. I am really big on peace of mind, no sludge, no varnish, superior film strength, high heat survivability with all my camping gear.
I am looking at a 5W-40 custom blend oil that I MAY use in the Silverado but certainly nothing less.
I have a 4 cyl Toyota pickup with 300,000 miles and a Chevrolet Cavalier with 202,000 miles in my driveway. Both used daily. The Cavalie has had Mobil 1 15W-50 since day one, the Toyota has had it for 250,000 miles. I have a 2008 Silverado pickup in the garage with 1856 miles. I waited until 500 miles to change it over.
My daughter has a Chrysler van that called for a 5W-20. It now has just at 116,000 with M1 15W-50. None of these vehicles use a drop of oil between OCI. All get better mileage than the EPA estimates, actually much better, no winter starting problems in Northern Va and Eastern KY.
I change oil and filter at 3000 miles. I am really big on peace of mind, no sludge, no varnish, superior film strength, high heat survivability with all my camping gear.
I am looking at a 5W-40 custom blend oil that I MAY use in the Silverado but certainly nothing less.
M1 0W40 and forget about it! You will never have to worry about the flow and cold start issue. It would not matter if you lived in Canada or Texas it would be good for anything you tossed at it. The M1 0W40 has to be one of the best products that M1 bottles and sells in the USA.It will keep that engine spotlessly clean.the only thing that might hurt it is if this engine dumbs a lot of fuel into the oil short of that this would be my number one choice for this engine. If it turns out it dumbs fuel in the oil at an alarming rate we can deal with that if it turns out to be a problem. Since we do not have any UOA for this engine though we do not know. If you decided to go with a 5W30 I would have to go with Redlines 5W30.
Just run what ever is recommended. I run Mobil One 0W30 in the Texas heat without an issue.
This forum has gotten funny (like crazy old man funny). OP asked what synthetic to run and everyone is telling him what he really needs is conventional even though he really wants synthetic.
To answer the original question, if 5w30 is recommended I would use M1 5w30 EP or 10w30 EP, if you want to to try a 0w30 try the M1 AFE. Ultra is also a good choice.
To answer the original question, if 5w30 is recommended I would use M1 5w30 EP or 10w30 EP, if you want to to try a 0w30 try the M1 AFE. Ultra is also a good choice.
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Originally Posted By: Bill_Jay
I have cold startup noise in 2008 Sienna. Some call it say piston slap, but Toyota will never utter those words.
Is there an oil out there that can help quiet down the noise and reduce wear?
Since the thread has been awakened from the dead, I thought I'd add my .02 since I have a Sienna with the same engine.
I'm actually still using Toyota's dino and have a smooth/silent idle at ambient temp, but when it warms up, I hear a pretty loud "slapping". I called the dealer and this was one of my questions. They said it's "normal" because it has "forged pistons" that expand (obviously) and create that noise.
In my experience with Toyota's, I've heard several with the slapping noise and always assumed it's just the "Toyota sound". As long as it lasts a while, I don't care.
I have cold startup noise in 2008 Sienna. Some call it say piston slap, but Toyota will never utter those words.
Is there an oil out there that can help quiet down the noise and reduce wear?
Since the thread has been awakened from the dead, I thought I'd add my .02 since I have a Sienna with the same engine.
I'm actually still using Toyota's dino and have a smooth/silent idle at ambient temp, but when it warms up, I hear a pretty loud "slapping". I called the dealer and this was one of my questions. They said it's "normal" because it has "forged pistons" that expand (obviously) and create that noise.
In my experience with Toyota's, I've heard several with the slapping noise and always assumed it's just the "Toyota sound". As long as it lasts a while, I don't care.
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what do you mean by Toyota`s Dino oil? You mean the oil the dealership is using?
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