Which Oil next in new subaru?

[Rand]

Coming up on 3000miles in my 2011 forester.
What oil would you use next.. manual says use 0w20,
it also is only going to be in for 4500 miles
manual says change at 3k 7.5k and every 7.5k after

I have:
Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
Pennzoil Ultra 5w20
G-OIL 5w30
Quaker State Synthetic 5w20

Current thinking.. use some of the cheaper 5w20 till the 7500oci then use Mobil 1 0w20

Filter will be subaru black filter. no aftermarket filters available yet for this engine.
They all spec same filter as the 2010 engine but its different.

Yes this is an opinion topic. Please keep it civil

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Combine all oils into a bin and use that mix, and do a used oil analysis on it to humor us.

Or, just use one quart of either 5w30 and the rest 5w20 to fill it up, and once it's all gone switch to the 0w20.

 

[whitson01]

if i remember correctly, subarus filters are made by toyo-roki? they are well made imo. i would stick with them too. is your forester turbo?

 

[Rand]

all the blue cans are honeywell. The black very well might be toyo-roki.
They are about 6$ shipped so I will most likely stick with those buying 3-4 at a time for shipping deal.

Factory oci in miles is 3k 7.5k then every 7.5k or 8monthes.

its not the turbo but the new timing chain 2.5L with some other updates like vvt

"The FB has an all new block and head. It now has DOHC, with intake and exhaust variable valve timing (AVCS - Active Valve Control System), and timing chain that replaced the timing belt. Moving to chain-driven cams is said to allow the valves to be placed at a narrower angle to each other and shrink the bore of cylinder from 99.5 mm to 94. It results in less unburned fuel during cold starts, thereby reducing emission. Subaru is able to maintain the exterior dimension substantially unchanged by asymmetrical connecting rods like those in EZ36. The FB is only marginally heavier."

 

[UNC151]

Go for the Quaker State Ultimate Durability (I am assuming this is what Quaker State Synthetic 5w20 is in your list?). I am switching to this on my 2006 Azera after this run of PP. It has had PP since new, but Quaker State Ultimate Durability has very good numbers and is about $4-$6 a bottle cheaper than PP in my area.

Good luck in your quest...

 

[bluesubie]

The n/a EJ engines were easy on oil and I expect the FB to be easy on oil as well. Although the timing chain may be a bit harder on oil than the EJ's are. I would probably go with a 0W-20 since that's what's recommended. Maybe a 5W-20 as well but I don't think you'd gain anything by going with a 5w30. Especially with SoA being so vague about other grades and what's "required" vs what's "recommended".

-Dennis

 

[Oregoonian]

I like your current thinking...use a cheaper 5w20...and then Mobil 1 0w20'

For the cheaper 5w20....consider using Mobil Super Syn 5w20.....then Mobil 1 0w20 for 7500K OCI.
__________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 99K
Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 / Purolator PureOne / 8K +/-

Note: Next fill will be Mobil 1 0w20

 

[Eddie]

I would use what the factory recommends 0w20 and an OEM oil filter. I would also follow the engineers recommendation on the oil change intervals. Why would you want to go against a factory recommendation by using an oil not specifically recommended? Your brand new vehicle and your choice of course. PP or M1 would be my choices in the 0W20 wt. Ed

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
I would use what the factory recommends 0w20 and an OEM oil filter. I would also follow the engineers recommendation on the oil change intervals. Why would you want to go against a factory recommendation by using an oil not specifically recommended? Your brand new vehicle and your choice of course. Pennzoil Platinum or M1 would be my choices in the 0W20 wt. Ed

its currently 87F out here
Is 0w20 or 5w20 going to matter?

I'll be dumping it in 2 monthes long before winter.
I'd prefer to use the 5w20 I got 8$ after rebate vs 6.52/qt x 6 qts for 0w20.
Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 isnt available in my area.

I can purchase in single quarts m1 or synpower for 0w20.
or subaru 0w20 from the dealer for 7.85/qt

The manual also states ambigious stuff like this:

It normally takes longer to start the engine
in very cold weather conditions. Use an
engine oil of a proper grade and viscosity
for cold weather. Using heavy summer oil
will make it harder to start the engine.

and

NOTE
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects
fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity
provide better fuel economy. However,
in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is
required to properly lubricate the engine


Synthetic oil of the grade and viscosity
noted in chapter 12 is the required
engine oil for optimum engine performance.
Conventional oil may be used if
synthetic oil is unavailable.

NOTE
The procedure for changing the engine oil and oil filter should be performed by a properly-trained expert. It is recommended
that you have this service performed by your SUBARU dealer. (lol)

0W-20 synthetic oil is the required oil
for optimum engine performance and
protection. Conventional oil may be
used if synthetic oil is unavailable.
*: If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available,
5w30 or 5W-40 conventional oil may
be used if replenishment is needed but
should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic
oil at the next oil change.

 

[WagonBoss]

For 4500 miles I wouldn't waste any of your good oils. Whatever conventional 5w-20 SN on sale would be my recommendation, but if you want to use the stash then the QS. I have yet to understand Subaru's "lipstick on a pig" oil recommendations of 0W-20 for this engine.

 

[bluesubie]

I thought the 2011's did away with the statement that higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine in hot weather. My favorite part is the statement that 5W-40 conventional may be used for replenishment.

I don't know if you received the addendum to the OM, but it states that 0W-20 is required. A few months later, SoA will probably say something else.

-Dennis

 

[JOD]

If I were in your shoes, I'd use the cheapest 5W20 you had on hand for the next short OCI, then go to the M10W20. It's interesting that they suggest short OCI's during break-in--I don't know of any manufacturers doing that besides them?

As far as the engine being "harder on oil" because of the belt, I seriously have to question the validity of that old chestnut. Some of the notorious "easy on oil" engines (Duratecs, K24's, 1ZZ-FE) have chains. Providing boundary lubrication for a chain really isn't that taxing of a task for motor oil.

 

[bluesubie]

SoA specs the first oil change for the 2011 turbos at 7,500 and a tech bulletin, which I've posted here before, actually says that that the first oil change on the FB engine is 3,000 due to the timing chain. Apparently they think the turbos are easier on oil.

-Dennis

 

[dparm]

Doesn't Subaru sell their own 0w20? I'd use that. It's probably priced competitively and really easy to get.

Otherwise, perhaps Castrol Edge 0w20.

 

[artificialist]

I would have thought that the new engine would be less hard on oil, because it replaces flat cam followers with roller cam followers.