which oil for a new rebuilt engine honda d16 turbo

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racepak

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hi guys,
i just finished my brake in (i think) on my honda D16 engine with valvoline premium conventional 10-40 and redline brake in additive, i made 500miles,
my oil pressure is around 15psi @idle and 60-65 @3000 rpm.
no oil temp gauge yet,

engine has all new internals and valvetrain+cam (so i need some zinc,)
new acl duraglide bearings at stock clearances,

which oil would you recommand me to buy tommorow,
smile.gif

i was thinking about staying with one oil brand, so i guess i'm going to get valvoline. maby vr1 or synpower? but i'm not sure which viscosity.??

my lowest startup temperaure will be around 65F.

i choose valvoline becaust in my contry we dont have brand like brad peen,amsoil.torco,

the options i do have are:
ELF. redline. mobil1. motul. castrol.agip.

thanks
smile.gif
 
Is it a flat tappet or roller cam what is the seat pressure? The VR1 is [censored] good oil but not made to use for very long at all.All the oils you mention are ok depends on the zinc level you need which would go by the above.Some of the Mobil1 is good for your app but i dont know much about it somebody will chime in i am sure.
 
5 40 or 10 40 supertech oil and a nice oarnge fram can from Walmart and I'd go 6k on your oci's
smile.gif
 
Finally something in my expertise...

I need more info, are you running e85, what psi on the turbo, is this a y8/z6 vtec? or a6/y7 non vtec?.

Did you get titanium retainers, double spring valve train or oem type?

What brand/stage cam, vitara type pistons or CP type pistons, if vitara did you get the custom length rods to avoid the lose in compression you get with OEM length rods?

was the entire block machined and or balanced to the new internals, also was it hot tanked?

You shouldn't NEED more zinc because of the new valve train, but it won't hurt it, because I am sure you didn't put the cat back when you put the downpipe in.
 
When I had my SOHC VTEC Y8/A6 combo powered 91 CRX SI(sold it in 2006 and purchased a Mitsu EVO), I used Amsoil 5-30 and 0-30 with great results. Knowing that you don't have access to Amsoil, and that the oils have changed since then, I would try Red Line X-30 or possibly Red Line 5-20

For those that might not know, the A6 engine(and most SOHC Honda engines up to 1998 I think) were NON roller, OHC engines. The cam lobe acted directly on the rocker arm pad, which then acted on the vlave stem.

BTW, what ECU are you running?
 
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Originally Posted By: si1491
When I had my SOHC VTEC Y8/A6 combo powered 91 CRX SI(sold it in 2006 and purchased a Mitsu EVO), I used Amsoil 5-30 and 0-30 with great results. Knowing that you don't have access to Amsoil, and that the oils have changed since then, I would try Red Line X-30 or possibly Red Line 5-20

For those that might not know, the A6 engine(and most SOHC Honda engines up to 1998 I think) were NON roller, OHC engines. The cam lobe acted directly on the rocker arm pad, which then acted on the vlave stem.

BTW, what ECU are you running?


I pulled apart my D16y7 and a B18c1 and they were both lobe to rocker pad style, all Honda 4 cly motors were like this until i-vtec I believe.
 
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hey guys, thanks for all the comments, didntt had time to pickup new oil today, started repainting my wheels and got carryed away.:)

thenks for the answer,
i'm not gonna be running on e85, plain 98ron.
evantualy i'm going to run about 20-25psi.

my engine has vitara pistons,eagle rods new oem oil pump,bisimoto 3.6 cam/sptings/tit reteiners.
i'v built the engine myself, the only machining that was dont on the block is boring and a resurface,

the ecu is a motec m4.

anyhow. our only redline dealer dosnt have w-20/w-30 oils,
BTW, here in israel its very uncommon to see 30 grade oils,
 
Originally Posted By: si1491
When I had my SOHC VTEC Y8/A6 combo powered 91 CRX SI(sold it in 2006 and purchased a Mitsu EVO), I used Amsoil 5-30 and 0-30 with great results. Knowing that you don't have access to Amsoil, and that the oils have changed since then, I would try Red Line X-30 or possibly Red Line 5-20

Those are good oil choices or any premium 5W-30, but if 30wt oils aren't available (how strange) you could go with a 0W-40 from Castrol or Mobil or even Valvoline. It's a better choice to a mineral 10W-40.
 
That's a nice thorough build, pretty much what I was planning for my civic, you have to be careful depending on which d16 engine you have, the y7/y8's only have 1 oil hole per bearing and are notorious for spinning bearings when turbo'd, did you do the DIY oil pump porting on Honda-Tech?

I would get a 40wt Redline oil if that isn't too hard to get or too much $$ or any 15w40 Diesel oil works well in a turbo Honda too.
 
thanks again guys,
the engine is a z6, with all the holes:)

i also forgot to add that i have a moroso 5.5quart oil pan and a large moroso pickup(alot larger then stock,
could that be the reason i'm having only 14-15 psi at idle on a fresh angine?
 
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I have never heard of the Moroso pan causing lower oil PSI, I always idled at 30 to 35 depending on the grade of oil I used in my y7.

Where are you pulling the oil PSI from??

Did you replace the oil pump upon rebuild? It may be weakening...
 
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I'm reading oil pressure from the turbo feed line(teed from the oem oil press switch)

the oil pump is new,
 
I have never personally seen the oil PSI on a d16 from putting it in the sending unit, it is far easier to buy an oil sandwich and go that route, which is what I did, if it runs great I wouldn't worry about it too much and after a few searches on Honda-Tech/Dseries.org I found that around 15psi is normal for a fresh rebuild and 50psi at 3k rpms.
 
thanks guys,

i scored some valvoline vr1 5-50 for really cheap,
do you think i shold use it?


here is its pdf:
http://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/products/engine_oils/vr1_racing/cid(621)/vr1_racing_5w-50/product-information
 
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