Which oil filter..


I'd try the Napa Platinum or Wix XP filter.

Metal end caps are overrated and overhyped. Many filters use fiber, glue, or 'none'. So, any/all of the Fram products are just fine. End cap is not a deciding factor.

Are these filters leaking on you? If so, how are they being installed? I inspect my filters before usage. I cut them open after usage. When possible, I avoid buying filters on amazon/ebay. I use a torque wrench. Sure, all manufacturers have quality control issues. Until you experience repeat problems, keep using them.

To test threads prior to installation, buy an M22 1.5 nipple used on those remote filter mounts.

And, the full list of filters at Rockauto, Napa, Autozone, AdvanceAuto/Carquest, Oreillyauto are all good, unless you're looking for bitog acceptance or breaking some oil or filter usage records. Just listen to your engine as it will tell you if it doesn't like the filter.
 
I’ve had no problems with Mobil 1 & Kn oil filters the black can. I’ve used Acdelco in the past those also were good filters.
 
Used a slew of filter brands on the "same car" (5 Saabs with the same engine) and ACDelco always held back top end oil where all the others let the oil return to the sump.

Are ACDelco filters known for better ADBVs?
My 4.0l SOHC ('05 Ranger) likes a primed system upon start-up. I'm wondering if an ACDelco will hold prime longer in my application.
 
ADBV performance and material chosen is dependent on the filter chosen. Within a brand, there could be more options/designs than one can shake a stick at. I prefer silicone ADBV's and pick filters with them. With the shortage of silicone in the market place, other materials, like AEM and coated and better nitriles will have to take up the slack until supply is addressed. USCAR36 has an ADBV performance test and its nothing to brag about.
 
Nitrile and alternative materials such as AEM will hold its own. Before silicone no one questioned it. What did we do before cellphones? We got by.
 
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I'd try the Napa Platinum or Wix XP filter.

Metal end caps are overrated and overhyped. Many filters use fiber, glue, or 'none'. So, any/all of the Fram products are just fine. End cap is not a deciding factor.

Are these filters leaking on you? If so, how are they being installed? I inspect my filters before usage. I cut them open after usage. When possible, I avoid buying filters on amazon/ebay. I use a torque wrench. Sure, all manufacturers have quality control issues. Until you experience repeat problems, keep using them.

To test threads prior to installation, buy an M22 1.5 nipple used on those remote filter mounts.

And, the full list of filters at Rockauto, Napa, Autozone, AdvanceAuto/Carquest, Oreillyauto are all good, unless you're looking for bitog acceptance or breaking some oil or filter usage records. Just listen to your engine as it will tell you if it doesn't like the filter.
I've had not one problem out of the Wix filters
 
Mobil1 are Purolator, and I think K&N are made by Champion Labs
Mann Hummel took over Purolator. Fast forward to 1:36

At 5:21 he says 99% @ 25 microns for the Purolator Boss. I don't see how you can beat that.

 
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A couple clarifications:

Fram has been using fiber end discs for decades now. They are found on the spin on versions of the Extra guard, Tough Guard. If you want spin on filters from Fram, get the Ultra/Titanium (synthetic blend media) or the Endurance full synthetic media wire backed.

The Wix XP/Napa Platinum is wired backed but the efficiency is very poor.

As others have pointed out some filters don't even have end caps/discs. What matters is having a strong durable media with good efficiency, a solid inner core, and good build quality.

I used to hate the fiber end disc design myself. I was skeptical of the explanations Motorking told the forum. What changed my mind was looking at the photos of the cut open filters. The examples that tore were the metal end cap designs regardless of manufacturer were the ones vs. The Fram fiber end disc held up without tearing (the early Champion Ecores did have a couple failures but I think since Fram revised the Ecore design, there haven't been any). The wire backed spin on ones have been flawless from my recollection. If you are doing one oil change per filter and don't feel the need for a synthetic filter, I would give the Extra guard or Tough Guard a go.
 
At 5:21 he says 99% @ 25 microns for the Purolator Boss. I don't see how you can beat that.
Only true for the gigatic sized PB30001. Other sizes have pretty bad efficiency. There are a few threads in this forum showing specific spec sheets from M+H for smaller size Boss filtets, and the efficiency is way worse than 99% @ 25μ.
 
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