Which oil do you think is better?

G

ghost31711

Joined
Dec 22, 2009
Messages
28
Location
ca
Using the oil for my old BMW that speced LL-01

Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 A3/B4 (no longer LL-01 approved but
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 API SN/CF
Ford WSS-M2C937-A
MB-Approval 229.3/ 229.5
Porsche A40
VW 502 00 / 505 00

Dec-1-ene, homopolymer, hydrogenated Dec-1-ene, oligomers, hydrogenated 68037-01-4 ≥25 - ≤50
Lubricating oils (petroleum), C20-50, hydrotreated neutral oil-based 72623-87-1 ≤10
Lubricating oils (petroleum), C15-30, hydrotreated neutral oil-based 72623-86-0 ≤3
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 64742-54-7 ≤3 Distillates (petroleum),
solvent-refined heavy paraffinic 64741-88-4 ≤3

vs.

Castrol Edge Euro 5w-40 A3-B4 (currently LL-01 approved and

ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 API SN/CF
BMW Longlife-01
MB-Approval 226.5/ 229.3/ 229.5
Porsche A40
Renault RN0700 / RN0710
VW 502 00/ 505 00

Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 64742-54-7 ≥25 - ≤50
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 64742-54-7 ≥25 - ≤50
Lubricating oils (petroleum), C15-30, hydrotreated neutral oil-based 72623-86-0 ≤10
Lubricating oils (petroleum), C20-50, hydrotreated neutral oil-based 72623-87-1 ≤10
Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy paraffinic 64742-65-0 ≤3

what would you guys pick?
 
Well, if you want to use an LL-01 approved oil then it looks like your choice is the 5W-40.
 
Your overthinking this. If in the US buy some name brand oil at Walmart that meets the specs. While many or all of us have some brand favorites, all the name brand oils are pretty good as they meet the specs listed.

Now oil from Dollar General where "Mobil 1" is spelled wrong is a different story.
 
Have you run either yet? I pick oils by how the engine runs and performs and the fuel mileage return.
It does look like the 0w is a traditional synthetic and the 5W is a technosynthese.
Regardless have you run them?
 
I've heard of the base stock being better on the 0w-40 compared to the 5w-40. But I'd honestly rather use quaker state euro 5w-40 if you can get it at wallys. Under $19 a jug and is highly rated with LL-01 if you want to stay in warranty and or be guaranteed you can go the longer intervals. Check online first. if you can't either of those two is fine but i'd pick the 0w-40 to keep it simple.

But if you feel like adventuring what bmw engine does it have exactly. You said LL-01 and not the LL-01FE. What's your oil consumption if hopefully not applicable, and what's the coldest temp it starts up in. Because if it's like an older n52 that doesn't burn or hardly burns 1 quart every 3k or more, and starts up in weather no colder than 10f I'd honestly just put diesel oil in it like t4. Higher hths with better additive packs and robust oxidation.

if it were Di I'd run any of the ck/sn rated oils like which have less calcium and more magnesium and are lspi friendly. The Volvo VDS 4.5 is a long life rating i'd look for.

Funny enough the wamart supertech diesel has that and the strict ford wss spec too while also being the cheapest. I'd argue it gives as good if not better protection and long service life than any of the 3 euro oils. I will most likely switch to it after i run through my qs euro stock.
 
I'll have to go with Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W20.
My old 2002 4.6 Ford F-150 4X4 has never ran smoother. 141,000 miles.
And, it doesn't use a drop of it.
Before I was using Castrol High Mileage and had to add a quart every 1,000 miles.
 
Triple3 in Mo. said:
I'll have to go with Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W20.
My old 2002 4.6 Ford F-150 4X4 has never ran smoother. 141,000 miles.
And, it doesn't use a drop of it.
Before I was using Castrol High Mileage and had to add a quart every 1,000 miles.
Click to expand...
Suggesting a 20-grade oil for an "old BMW" has to qualify as the worst post of the day.

Or the month.
 
I've used both Castrol flavors in my 2016 Kia with a 2.0 TDI. These little turbo motors arehard on oil and tend to thin it becauseof fuel dilution. I honestly can't tell the difference but I run no more than 5K OCI (actually closer to 4K). IMHO both would be fine in your BMW
 
Donald said:
Your overthinking this. If in the US buy some name brand oil at Walmart that meets the specs. While many or all of us have some brand favorites, all the name brand oils are pretty good as they meet the specs listed.

Now oil from Dollar General where "Mobil 1" is spelled wrong is a different story.
Click to expand...
Does this include SuperTech as a name brand oil?
 
My engine is the s85 V10 originally speced for 10w-60 (Castrol TWS), which I don't want to use due to tight rod bearing tolerances.

Throughout my 10 years of ownership I've used liqui moly' 10w-60 for the first couple of years, then switched to Mobil1 0w-40 when the bearing issue was know and bmw released a document adding oils with LL-01 (which castrol TWS is NOT) to the approved list of recommended oils

After Mobil 1 removed the LL-01 approval on the bottle I switched to Castrol Euro 0w-40( when they still had ll-01 up until last year), and most recently the edge 5w-40 for it's LL-01.

The car seems the smoothest with the 2 Castrols. oils consumption is also about the same at 1qt per 1000 mile of spirited driving, seems a little less with the edge 5w-40 but that could be due to how I drive now that I'm older

The car is driven less than 1k a year as I have another daily ( that car just gets a rotation of PP, Mobil1, Valvoline AFS or , Castrol edge that I stock up on during rebate season... )

Is there a medical term for the condition where the things you own end up owning you? Yeah, I have that..
 
ghost31711 said:
My engine is the s85 V10 originally speced for 10w-60 (Castrol TWS), which I don't want to use due to tight rod bearing tolerances.
Click to expand...
That isn't relevant whatsoever. The difference in a 40-grade vs. a 60-grade is meaningless in regards to clearances (not tolerances).

But you can't make up for material and design defects with an oil no matter what. The 60-grade oil isn't going to cause nor accelerate failure.
 
Last edited:
kschachn said:
That isn't relevant whatsoever. The difference in a 40-grade vs. a 60-grade is meaningless in regards to clearances (not tolerances).

But you can't make up for material and design defects with an oil no matter what. The 60-grade oil isn't going to cause nor accelerate failure.
Click to expand...
I don't disagree with you, and I'm set on changing out the bearing once the car gets to a certain mileage (currently at 36k, will probably do it once it's around 80-90k if i start driving it more often)



But I choose to not use 10w-60 also because it does not suit my oil change interval (once every 8-12 month)

I really think 10w-60 is overkill for this engine especially for my driving style.

if 40-grade is good enough for superbikes and ferraris, GTRs, i think it's good enough for s85

Trusted mechanic has claimed he had positive experience on customer's M car vanos system when switching to 40-grade oil

No one has ever found anything in the engine that require 60-grade oil (ie, old school Porsche cam lobe clearance )

My wallet loves it.

But since my wallet has no opinion on which euro 40wt oil it prefers, I'm open to yours, thank you.
 
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