Get a picoscope and then you would have even more fun. The same starter current draw test would then be your cylinder balance test i.e. relative compression test. You would come up with nifty ways to use that device. I have heard that it has now dropped in prices to "mere" hundreds instead of couple thousands.
Which oil additive now?
- Thread starter stickshift
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Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
LubroMoly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment is the only thing I recommend. I am a proponent of using the best synthetic oil with an extended Oil Change Interval as the best way to care for your car, but if you have to put a friction modifier in there, stick to the proven ones instead of a detergent or teflon. Molybdenum doesn't have the downsides of the other friction modifiers, having a little extra in your engine is a good thing. Check out the reviews on Amazon, the only idiot that didn't give it 5 stars is someone who spilled it on his shirt, LOL.
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
Red Line's 0W-40 is excellent (as is Mobil 1's, but the RL has a higher High Temperature High Shear spec, as well as higher viscosity index, AND more soluble moly/ZDDP).
Motul (even MORE exorbibtantly priced than Red Line) is coming out with a 300V 0W-40, which will be super world class as well, with a higher group 5 basestock content than RL.
In any case, since your machine shop owning friend seems to know exactly what the clearances of this beast are, i would still run these suggestions by him. (BUT, he may have to be 'educated' as to HTHS specs vs. just API/SAE weights on the bottle.)
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
Red Line's 0W-40 is excellent (as is Mobil 1's, but the RL has a higher High Temperature High Shear spec, as well as higher viscosity index, AND more soluble moly/ZDDP).
Motul (even MORE exorbibtantly priced than Red Line) is coming out with a 300V 0W-40, which will be super world class as well, with a higher group 5 basestock content than RL.
In any case, since your machine shop owning friend seems to know exactly what the clearances of this beast are, i would still run these suggestions by him. (BUT, he may have to be 'educated' as to HTHS specs vs. just API/SAE weights on the bottle.)
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
Red Line's 0W-40 is excellent (as is Mobil 1's, but the RL has a higher High Temperature High Shear spec, as well as higher viscosity index, AND more soluble moly/ZDDP).
Motul (even MORE exorbibtantly priced than Red Line) is coming out with a 300V 0W-40, which will be super world class as well, with a higher group 5 basestock content than RL.
In any case, since your machine shop owning friend seems to know exactly what the clearances of this beast are, i would still run these suggestions by him. (BUT, he may have to be 'educated' as to HTHS specs vs. just API/SAE weights on the bottle.)
Excellent. The bearing clearances were set to what he preferred specifically, and I seem to remember they were snug. Conventional thinking would tell me it would be better suited with a lighter weight oil than 20w-50. So many choices it makes my head spin.
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: stickshift
Okay, found something interesting with the Lube Guard that a few recommended. Just to add first, the local transmission shop here believes in this stuff and puts it in every transmission they build. Doesn't mean much but I find that interesting.
Anyway some backround. I built the engine in my 70 formula about 15+ years ago. Machine shop (good friend of mine)recommended using only 20w-50 in this engine because he knew I had planned to race this car in pure stock so it would see some abuse,,,,and he also doesn't like the large diameter main bearings common in pontiacs (alot of bearing speed).
I've adheared to his recommendation religously and after all these years it still runs the same ET's when it was new, runs like a swiss watch. I have always used Valvoline VR1 racing 20w-50 (conventional stuff)
Now, this engine has always sounded like a sewing machine (lifters). Nothing bad and it never effected performance. I've lived with it and raced it for years. When built we converted this engine to adjustable valvetrain (stock Crane blueprint ram air III camshaft) and I currently run 1/2 turn preload past zero lash. No valvetrain issues. Experimented with different lash with no change in noise or performance. You can really hear it driving next to a wall with the window down, but you can't hear it in the car,,,it's very faint. Over the years I've become accustomed to it.
I had just changed the oil again about a month ago (about 50 miles on it) Still the same old sewing machine. Yesterday I bought a bottle of lubeguard to try in another car that has been sitting for 30 years. At the last minute I decided to dump it in the bird and take it for a drive. NO MORE SEWING MACHINE after more than 15 years. This thing is nice and quiet now. I simply couldn't believe it. Even now I'm still not sure but I'll drive it again tomorrow to confirm.
I have no clue why, or what this stuff did. I just don't have a clue at all. Did it thin the oil or change the viscosity? It's really thin stuff but there isn't all that much in a bottle so I can't see a drastic change in viscosity. I don't know if it's good or bad or what to think. Not even sure I want to keep trying it, and it will be a long while before I can do a used oil analysis on the car (seldom driven).
Any thoughts as to why? Maybe as I age I just can't hear anymore? (That's what my wife tells me)
LOTS OF good, soluble moly in the LG BioTech additive, along with their own special ester formula.
Those two ingredients alone might have made the difference in sound (NOT any change in viscosity)!!
The results might be even MORE dramatic if you were not afraid (seals, etc.??) to go to a modern, VERY HIGH moly & ZDDP content, high VI, 0W-40 weight, group 4/5 synthetic oil in this beast.
I'm open to suggestions and not afraid to experiment. Please tell me exactly what you have in mind.
Red Line's 0W-40 is excellent (as is Mobil 1's, but the RL has a higher High Temperature High Shear spec, as well as higher viscosity index, AND more soluble moly/ZDDP).
Motul (even MORE exorbibtantly priced than Red Line) is coming out with a 300V 0W-40, which will be super world class as well, with a higher group 5 basestock content than RL.
In any case, since your machine shop owning friend seems to know exactly what the clearances of this beast are, i would still run these suggestions by him. (BUT, he may have to be 'educated' as to HTHS specs vs. just API/SAE weights on the bottle.)
Excellent. The bearing clearances were set to what he preferred specifically, and I seem to remember they were snug. Conventional thinking would tell me it would be better suited with a lighter weight oil than 20w-50. So many choices it makes my head spin.
^^^Depending on just how "snug" (and other variables of course), even a 0W-40 may be too 'thick'.
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