Which Mobil 1 for built turbo Honda...5w40 SUV or 10w40 EP?

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JPowers

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I used to run 10w30 M1, but the engine builder told me to run a 40 weight oil for the new engine with forged pistons. Once I run out of 10w40 Castrol GTX that I'm using for the break-in, I need to decide which Mobil 1 oil to use. Please don't suggest other brands, because I have a stack of Pep Boys calendars with Mobil 1 coupons that I plan to use.
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Could someone please help me make sense of the specifications between these 2 oils? Some of it, like flash point, I understand, but I'm sure there are other factors involved which might not be indicated in the specs. I'm going to do oil changes every 3000 miles, so extended drains aren't important to me, just protection. I'd really appreciate your opinions, thanks!

Mobil 1 5w40 Truck & SUV:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Truck_SUV_5W-40.asp

Mobil 1 Extended Performance oils:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_Extended_Performance.asp
 
I would go with a european 5/40 in that motor.
If your stuck on mobil 1 than go with the truck and suv. Take a look at amsoil. There is no reason to change the oil at 3k just the filter. I would go with a mobil 1 filter and change the filter at 5k and do an oil analasis at this time to see how well the oil is holding up. I understand you have a built motor but doesnt mattter as long as you are using the correct syn oil and a high quality filter. Look for a oil that has a high shear stability and a high additive package. You will not have any problems going 10k on these oils. You will notice none of us on here change our syn oils at low mileage OCI. Just use the best filter you can find and use the oil above and you will not have any problems. What are your bearing clearances at????
 
With your choices I would go with the tsuv 5w/40 because it has higher zinc and other additives ,Do you have higher pressure valve springs? Lets get real kinky if your engine is really pumped look at the m1 motorcycle oil MXT4 I it is a 10w/40 and should hold up and protect well.Look up in virgin oil section for the exact additive numbers and see what
I mean.
 
How about some engine details like which model, what was modified with which parts and how you intend to use it.
 
Your engine builder says to use SAE 40 viscosity oil. You want to use Mobil 1 and buy it at PepBoys. If PepBoys doesn't carry M1 EP 10w40 or M1 T&SUV, your only other choice is M1 0w40. I understand that Porsche uses M1 0w40 as factory fill. If it works for them, I imagine it should work for you. With 3K mile OCIs, ZDDP depletion shouldn't be an issue. Install an oil temp gauge so you can monitor what's actually going on.

Did your engine builder break-in the engine for you or are you to first fire it up?
 
The engine was broken in on the dyno. Everyone has a different opinion on whether or not this is the best way, but in my case, it was the only choice.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Steve S:
look at the m1 motorcycle oil MXT4 I it is a 10w/40 and should hold up and protect well.Look up in virgin oil section for the exact additive numbers and see what
I mean.
Click to expand...
I can't seem to find this in the VOA section after doing searches for "motorcycle" and "MXT4." Would you mind posting the link for me? I'd really appreciate it!
 
Not sure where in PA you live, but here in the Philly suburbs I have yet to find either Mobil 1 5w-40 or Mobil 1 10w-40 EP at any Pep-Boys location. In fact, I've never seen the 10w-40 EP at any auto parts store here. Wal-Mart does carry the Mobil 1 5w-40 in 5-quart jugs for $20 though.
 
Thanks for the replies. While I realize that under normal circumstances oil drains every 3000 miles, especially for synthetic oil, are a waste of money, I no longer have a pcv system. All the acidic waste from the combustion process goes to an open breather catch can with a return line. I may eventually remove the return line and try manually draining it, but when I tried this with my old block, this would quickly overflow.

I've heard about M1 motorcycle oil, but don't know anything about it, and couldn't find it on their website.

I don't know what my bearing clearances are, but this is what I have now...B18C block with stock sleeves, Integra LS crank, Eagle rods, Arias 9:1 pistons, B16A head with new springs and titanium retainers good to 9500 rpms, although I was told to keep it at 9000 rpms, plus the turbo, etc. I didn't want to get too crazy with the horsepower since this is a daily driver, so I skipped the sleeves. Right now it's 335 whp, but that's because of the smaller intercooler. I have a larger one that requires the bumper support to be cut, then I'll get a re-tune.
 
quote:
Originally posted by AndyH:
Not sure where in PA you live, but here in the Philly suburbs I have yet to find either Mobil 1 5w-40 or Mobil 1 10w-40 EP at any Pep-Boys location. In fact, I've never seen the 10w-40 EP at any auto parts store here. Wal-Mart does carry the Mobil 1 5w-40 in 5-quart jugs for $20 though.
Click to expand...
They don't sell either of those at Pep Boys here, either. You have to special order it.
 
If it has to be M1, at Pep Boys, then 0w-40 or 5w-40 T&SUV. The latter will hold up longer, but it won't spin as freely. You don't want to get too thick with the turbo.

So with a 3k OCI, I'd take the 0w-40.

You're NEVER going to find 10w-40 EP at Pep Boys.

I can't say I understand your logic, however: spend mega $$$$$ for a new performance engine, but get tight on the oil to save a couple bucks.
 
In a turbo block like yours, no question - I'd use Redline. You need to let it do its thing for a few changes before considering the UOAs. It's terrific in a HO turbo and has plenty of moly. And you can buy their 10w-30 online for $7/qt and run a longer OCI with it.

Mobiloils are excellent across their product line, and Mobil 1 is one of the very best oils made by anyone. But it sounds like your engine is somewhat special.

I'm an old dog, too. I used to feel the very same way as you about the 0w oils. Don't let the 0w of M1 and GC dissuade you; they're excellent year-round oils.

But with that intended OCI, you really could run just about any synthetic and get away with it.
 
Thanks, guys. You've given me a lot more to think about. I'll do some more reading about the M1 0w40, but someone stated that it's actually closer to being a 30 weight oil. 0w30 GC is unavailable in my area. I used to be able to get Redline for $6.30/quart, but that was a while ago. Decisions, decisions...
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Steve S, I couldn't find the VOA Library last night, but thank you, AndyH for posting it!

quote:
Originally posted by Volvohead:
If it has to be M1, at Pep Boys, then 0w-40 or 5w-40 T&SUV. The latter will hold up longer, but it won't spin as freely. You don't want to get too thick with the turbo.

So with a 3k OCI, I'd take the 0w-40.

You're NEVER going to find 10w-40 EP at Pep Boys.

I can't say I understand your logic, however: spend mega $$$$$ for a new performance engine, but get tight on the oil to save a couple bucks.
Click to expand...
One thing I've found out about the SUV oil is that it doesn't contain moly. I think this is very odd. I'm not sure if I'm ready to trust a 0w oil, especially in the summer. I'm not trying to be frugal with the oil I choose, especially considering that Mobil 1 normally costs $5/quart now, and I'm only running it for 3000 miles, but what's wrong with saving 50%? I've used Redline and Amsoil in the past, and did UOAs on the Redline, which weren't impressive. Although Mobil 1 may not be the very best, its still good oil. If price were no object, what would you use?
 
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