Which HM Oil to reach 500K?

[tired]

Quaker State Euro 5w 40 is interesting option.
Thicker oil will certainly help in hotter months while on trails. My Tacoma has more weight due to Overland upgrades i.e. steel skid plates, steel bumpers, rock sliders etc.

Does thicker oil have better HTHS numbers? Can't find additive specs on this oil.

Question how much parasitic drag would jump to 5w 40 weight cause on engine?

Will try one run of this oil to see how truck runs and if MPG takes hit. Thanks.

Yes the 5W-40 will have a much higher HTHS than any of the API spec oils you're considering. The Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 will also have a higher HTHS than any of the oils you've run before. This will provide additional wear protection. The Quaker State Euro is a little on the lighter side of 40 weight oils too. Agree, it would definitely give you more headroom with anything you throw at it.

I can't find the HTHS of Quaker State Euro. But it is guaranteed to be above 3.5, due to the approvals they both carry.

I'd be shocked if you could recognize a fuel economy difference. If you do have one, it will be less than 1-2% I believe.

For $23.22 all day long at Walmart, I think it's hard to beat. It's probably identical to Pennzoil Platinum Euro L or Shell Helix Ultra (which is factory fill on Ferrari btw). But I've seen conflicting reports on both of those claims. Regardless, it's very close or the same as one of those.

 

[Vapor Lock]

Yes the 5W-40 will have a much higher HTHS than any of the API spec oils you're considering. The Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 will also have a higher HTHS than any of the oils you've run before. This will provide additional wear protection. The Quaker State Euro is a little on the lighter side of 40 weight oils too. Agree, it would definitely give you more headroom with anything you throw at it.

I can't find the HTHS of Quaker State Euro. But it is guaranteed to be above 3.5, due to the approvals they both carry.

I'd be shocked if you could recognize a fuel economy difference. If you do have one, it will be less than 1-2% I believe.

For $23.22 all day long at Walmart, I think it's hard to beat. It's probably identical to Pennzoil Platinum Euro L or Shell Helix Ultra (which is factory fill on Ferrari btw). But I've seen conflicting reports on both of those claims. Regardless, it's very close or the same as one of those.

Thanks grateful for the information!

 

[Vapor Lock]

I see the housing, yes. What did it look like before?

When truck was new back in 2006 oil housing was perfectly clean.

First photo of oil housing was taken at 360,000 miles. Heavy varnish accumulated over the years and miles.

2nd photo was several OCIs later using Valvoline Restore and Protect. Appx., at 390,000 miles.

 

[Vapor Lock]

Of the 3 you listed, I like the 100C viscosity of the 5w30 Supertech High Mileage Full Synthetic the best. Also, the Supertech is synthetic, which is a second area of superiority over Maxlife Blend (red bottle).

So of the three 5w30 you asked about, I'd choose 5w30 Supertech High Mileage Full Synthetic.

What I don't like about 5w30 Castrol Edge High Mileage FS is it's 100C viscosity is kinda low for a High Mileage 5w30 oil. However, 10w30 Castrol Edge High Mileage FS has a good viscosity that's equivalent to a good High Mileage 5w30 oil.

I recommend these High Mileage oils (in no particular order):
5w30 Supertech High Mileage Full Synthetic
10w30 Castrol Edge High Mileage FS
5w30 Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage Full Synthetic
5w30 Havoline Lifelong High Mileage Full Synthetic

I think the 5w30 V EP High Mileage FS is probably the best High Mileage oil, but the others I recommended are all excellent, IMO. You won't go wrong with any of them.

I suggest using any good name brand paper air filter (not oiled foam, and not synthetic). Paper (cellulose) filters the best for keep dust out of engine. The best oil filter is a good air filter, especially when you drive on dusty roads or offroad.

I suggest using a high quality oil filter that filters 25 microns @ 99% or better. The smaller the number for microns the better. 20-25 microns @ 99% is excellent. 30 microns @ 99% is adequate. Smaller than 30 microns is gravy.

My preferred filters are NAPA Gold. My second choice is Oreilly Microgard Select. There are many other good brands that are also made by Premium Guard (Gold, Select/Premium/XL are at the end of the names of the various brand names of premium filters made by Premium Guard).

I suggest keep changing oil and filter at 5K miles because that's the modern severe service OCI. More often than that would be a waste of time and money. Very little (if any) dust will enter your engine if you use a good paper air filter and have a properly funtioning PCV.

You should change your air filter on a severe service schedule if you frequently drive in dusty conditions.

I'd be concerned about dust and/or water getting into your differentials and transmission. If you want some advice for how to prevent that, please let me know.

Thanks sir. Grateful for information!
I have installed ARB differential breathing kit on front and rear differential. And extend the factory breathing tube on transmission.

 

[Vapor Lock]

So you decided to shorten your OCI from 5k to 3.5K and go with cheaper synthetic blend oils, except the Super Tech which is Full Synthetic.

Let me do the math again:
We need 100,000 miles to reach 500,000 miles.

Cheaper synthetic blend oil
100,000 : 3,500 = 28.5 oil changes x $20 (5qt) = $570 roughly

In this case I would recommend SuperTech High Mileage

Better Full Synthetic oil
100,000 : 5,000 = 20 oil changes x $25 (5qt) = $500 roughly

100,000 : 4,000 = 25 oil changes x $25 (5qt) = $625 roughly

In the last two cases I would choose Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 OR Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro FS or Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage 5w30.
These 3 oils can run for at least 5,000 miles. The first 2 will easily go to 7,000.

I would choose the last two scenarios because I think they'll get you in a safer and more efficient way to the 500,000 miles goal.

Received sir. Grateful for feedback and the information. Thank you.

 

[Vapor Lock]

Congrats on 400k. What oil/oils got you there?

Thanks! Pretty much any oil I could buy at Walmart.

 

[ATex7239]

Valvoline. So when the 2025 recent oil change post tally time comes around maybe Valvoline takes over Mobil’s long held top spot. Really get some drama churning around here.

 

[Carlostrece]

Thanks sir. Grateful for information!
I have installed ARB differential breathing kit on front and rear differential. And extend the factory breathing tube on transmission.

I'm not familiar with ARB diff breathing kit. I don't think that existed back when I had a Jeep.

I did it the old fashioned way. I replaced the stock breather hoses with rubber fuel line of appropriate diameter. Fuel line has enough structure to not collapse when differentials and transmission inhale air. They inhale air when they're warm or hot from use and then you drive into water. The cool water rapidly cools diff housings and transmission, which cause the air (and possibly oil) inside to contract, which causes them to suck in air if the end of breather hose is above water level. If end of breather hose is below water level, then water is sucked in.

I used fuel line long enough to route the end of each breather hose to a high place.

My rear diff breather hose was routed to end in a body cavity behind a tailight. My front diff breather hose was routed to top of engine bay. Transmission breather hose was routed to top of engine bay. The ones routed to top of engine bay ended in a place where they were sheltered from rain and/or water coming through grill.

In the end of each breather hose, I installed a clear plastic gas fuel filter to keep dust out. NAPA and Walmart sold those filters for $2.50 each years ago when I bought them. Currently $5 each. Plus cost of some rubber fuel line. That's probably a lot cheaper than an ARB filter kit. Also, gas filters are 5x bigger, better, and lower cost than aftermarket breather hose filter kit I've ever seen marketed to 4x4 community.

I haven't seen the ARB breather hose kit you mentioned. I'm sure it was expensive being ARB. Hopefully it's as good as a DIY kit/system using long rubber fuel line and clear plastic fuel filters.

 

[Vapor Lock]

I'm not familiar with ARB diff breathing kit. I don't think that existed back when I had a Jeep.

I did it the old fashioned way. I replaced the stock breather hoses with rubber fuel line of appropriate diameter. Fuel line has enough structure to not collapse when differentials and transmission inhale air. They inhale air when they're warm or hot from use and then you drive into water. The cool water rapidly cools diff housings and transmission, which cause the air (and possibly oil) inside to contract, which causes them to suck in air if the end of breather hose is above water level. If end of breather hose is below water level, then water is sucked in.

I used fuel line long enough to route the end of each breather hose to a high place.

My rear diff breather hose was routed to end in a body cavity behind a tailight. My front diff breather hose was routed to top of engine bay. Transmission breather hose was routed to top of engine bay. The ones routed to top of engine bay ended in a place where they were sheltered from rain and/or water coming through grill.

In the end of each breather hose, I installed a clear plastic gas fuel filter to keep dust out. NAPA and Walmart sold those filters for $2.50 each years ago when I bought them. Currently $5 each. Plus cost of some rubber fuel line. That's probably a lot cheaper than an ARB filter kit. Also, gas filters are 5x bigger, better, and lower cost than aftermarket breather hose filter kit I've ever seen marketed to 4x4 community.

I haven't seen the ARB breather hose kit you mentioned. I'm sure it was expensive being ARB. Hopefully it's as good as a DIY kit/system using long rubber fuel line and clear plastic fuel filters.



View attachment 305134

ARB Kit is same concept.

 

[TiGeo]

ST.