which coil for points?

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sasilverbullet

sasilverbullet

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Aug 22, 2004
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70 Lincoln with a 460, points converted to a Pertronix Ignitor II hooked to a MSD coil. The coil has switched +12v to it. If I go back to using points, 1. Can I use the new coil, or should I put the old coil back on? 2. If old coil, then do I need to connect the old power source that is a ballast resistance power source? background - see this thread old thread on BITOG
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
70 Lincoln with a 460, points converted to a Pertronix Ignitor II hooked to a MSD coil. The coil has switched +12v to it. If I go back to using points, 1. Can I use the new coil, or should I put the old coil back on? 2. If old coil, then do I need to connect the old power source that is a ballast resistance power source? background - see this thread old thread on BITOG
Which MSD coil? If its the Blaster II that looks pretty much like a conventional coil, it should be just fine with points, although it will need an external ballast resistor to keep it from burning up when you turn the key on with the engine stopped if the points happen to land in the closed position. You can go to a parts store and ask for a ballast resistor for a "1984 Dodge Ram with a 318" and wire that in series with the coil and points.
 
Provide details on the MSD coil you are using, is it 12v or Less than 12v? What coil does Petronix suggest you use? Are you considering going back to points just as a 'roadside' 'get you home' fix if the Petronix should fail. Or as a permanent re-conversion? Really, in this day and age, Why would you want points? I don't think there has been a car manufactured in the last 30 years that uses points, for good reason. Why would you think they are better?
 
The reason is for trouble-shooting purposes. I suspect the A-1 Cardone rebuilt dist i got from O'Reillys may be bad. I'm getting another one in tomorrow. I was going to throw it in and check it with the points. From what's posted so far, I'll hook the old coil and it's ballast wire up to test it. If the new dist's dwell is 30, and the car doesn't ping with the vacuum advance hooked up, then I'll try to go back to the Pertronix II and MSD coil. One reason for this step is that yesterday I noticed that the Pertronix II's mounting flange hits the vacuum advances arm and seems to not allow it to return to normal position. This may have been the reason it pinged severely with the vacuum advance connected.
 
"If the new dist's dwell is 30" Surly the dwell is whatever you set it to by adjusting the point gap? Point gap/Dwell are related. Timing is another variable. You can have spot-on Dwell and ignition timing that is off and get an engine that runs poorly. or vice verso.
 
I don't mean to preach, just, I don't know your proficiency with Points ignition. Typically, a 'Bad' Distributor will display Ignition 'scatter' (variance in spark advance) due to a defective cam or worn shaft bearings or Bent shaft. Or Defective Advance characteristics (mechanical and/or Vacuum)
 
I think I found my problem. I'll be able to confirm it later tonight when I put the new distributor in WITH points! smile See the area I have circled in red? Where the points come VERY close to the vacuum advance arm? And notice how the points "rotate" on the screw that's at the other end? Well the Pertronix Ignitor II I had installed pivots on the screw near the red circle. Two things happen wrong - 1. there isn't the required clearance for the Ignitor to magnetic sensor, and 2. It prevents the vacuum actuator from returning to it's original position - hence the excessive pinging. [censored], what a waste of money! I have a call into Pertronix and they're trying to figure out what the fix is. [img:left]http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/download/file.php?id=12228&mode=view[/img]
 
Confirmed - the car runs fine, no pinging, with a stock coil and points. So here's my problem with the Ignitor II...see the plastic feeler gauge? It's the .30 gauge they give you in the box. So with the proper clearance, see how (circled in red) the screw hole is not accessible unless I do some major modifications to the Ignitor II unit. As you can see from the pic I've already ground the Ignitor II some to get better clearance. Here's a close-up of the problem with the Pertronix Ignitor II - I've already been on the phone with Pertronix, they're willing to swap my unit out for a new one, but will not give me a refund because of the way they sell their product. I can then get back with my original flea-bay seller to see if he'll give me a refund on the "new" unit they sent me. Crud. So what to do? I've already spent $160 on the Ignitor and $45 on a MTD coil - for what? Any ideas folks?
 
Run the points triggering a basic cd unit. The points don't wear/burn out and by using a wick lubricator on the rubbing block They will go a LOOONG time without having to adjust them. MOST of those Cardone rebuilts do NOT have new shaft bushings installed in them. Check the clearance and keep returning them until you have a tight one. Just my biased opinion. John--Las Vegas
 
expat - don't think so, it's just a little "nipple" underneath that holds it in the front screw slot. I really don't want to modify that $160 part any more. The mounting plate for it is cheap aluminum and when you grind/work on it it gets really hot fast! I've got a call into Pertronix and I'm emailing a guy in their tech department. I asksed them if I can ship them the distributor and the unit and THEY can figure out how to make it work! Haven't hear back yet...
 
"I've got a call into Pertronix and I'm emailing a guy in their tech department. I asksed them if I can ship them the distributor and the unit and THEY can figure out how to make it work! Haven't hear back yet..." thumbsup In the mean time I would send a picture.
 
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