1980s dodge 318 coils

Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Messages
40,453
Location
ME
Got a 1985-ish W250 plow truck. Unknown history. Butchered wiring.

Cutting out on me at half throttle, all cylinders at once, looking to throw a coil at it.

The one on it looks like
712WC9pq9IS._AC_SL1500_.jpg

but the online catalogs show a traditional 1970s coil with two wire stud connections and a female output. I suspect shenanigans-- an engine swap at some point, who knows.

I still have a ballast resistor... maybe its presence is my problem? The old coils needed them but the clip-in-connector ones shouldn't. Clip-in seems to have become popular in 1990.

Who knows these things?
 
Im no dodge expert, but an engine bay picture might help identify an engine swap...

looks like that coil goes back to 98 with an adapter harness...
 
Trace out the wiring?

Wasn’t it possible to swap in a gm hei ignition module? Eons ago I wanted a slant six car, and I want to say, that was often done as an upgrade. Stock distributor triggered the module. Then no ballast required.
 
Toss it and put an OEM style coil on it. Back in the day, we called those pretty coils "stata-rudicators" because they were a waste of money and caused problems.

I would also change out the wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Any of the ignition items can break down under load and cause a misfire. I believe the stock plug is a Champion RN12YC (not sure in 1985) , I found the Clampions worked best in those Mopars..I had issues with Bosch and NGK in 318"s.
 
Last edited:
Pic of coil was for reference-- it has a weatherproof clip-in connector like mine.

When I look up "OE" for my year, I get a coil that doesn't look like mine.

Hence my question.

I'll add that there isn't a computer, nor a catalyst.
 
Last edited:
I assume it has some sort of transistorized ignition?

Id put it back to the stock coil including the presence or absence of ballast resistor. can't we determine exact year by the VIN?

However as i'm sure you are aware butchered wiring and unknown engine swap could be big gotcha's - i would definitely try to figure out what i was dealing with - even more so if there was any possibility id see it and have to work on it again.
 
For me to go back to a 1984-correct coil, I'd have to cut the quick-connect off and add ring terminals, and buy a new ignition wire set as my current coil is male, vice female from the ones pictured. Doable, but want to know if it's the best course of action.

Vin-10 is E.

You guy should read yourselves, "use the correct coil." Not the question posed. Question is, why is a 1990+ coil on my 1984 truck, without computer, without oxygen sensors, without feedback carb, with ballast resistor, with "custom" wiring. Secondary question is if the 90+ coil should even be run with a ballast resistor.
 
I don't think the newer coils had resistors in their power wiring. It'd be easy enough to bypass any existing power wiring and see.
 
Question is, why is a 1990+ coil on my 1984 truck, without computer, without oxygen sensors, without feedback carb, with ballast resistor, with "custom" wiring.

Very hard to answer without additional investigation. There is probably a reason - that reason could be "because it is what the guy who did it had" or the "guy who swapped the motor ran into some gotcha that required it".

Secondary question is if the 90+ coil should even be run with a ballast resistor.

From my understanding more a function of the ignition box and distributor than the coil, unless the coil has an internal resistor, which i suppose you could tell with a multimeter. FWIW the Mopar "performance" transistorized ignition kit which is basically late model ignition system does require a resistor from what i can find.

Does the ignition box look something like this?

smp-lx101t_dp_xl.jpg


Last time i tried you could get just a coil wire.

if you compare the primary and secondary resistance of that accel direct replacement coil to say an MSD or FAST coil on summit (i get that yours isn't a accel, but they don't give those figures on standard stuff) the late model coil is much higher which would seem to indicate an internal ballast...
 
Last edited:
My 1992 B350 has that plug on its original coil. My intermittent running problem was the crankshaft position sensor. Easy replacement of it since it mounted at the bellhousing.
 
If your coil truly looks like the one in the picture - that is the "ACCELL Super Coil". It was a high performance upgrade part from the 80's - promising more voltage - and known for more problems. My guess is someone tried to hot rod your truck once upon a time.

I would go back to stock if your keeping this thing.
 
Found the correct coil under the air cleaner-- what I thought was, wasn't. Hassle of working on something with a plow still in front. Failure of "positive component identification." Thanks all.
 
For me to go back to a 1984-correct coil, I'd have to cut the quick-connect off and add ring terminals, and buy a new ignition wire set as my current coil is male, vice female from the ones pictured. Doable, but want to know if it's the best course of action.

Vin-10 is E.

You guy should read yourselves, "use the correct coil." Not the question posed. Question is, why is a 1990+ coil on my 1984 truck, without computer, without oxygen sensors, without feedback carb, with ballast resistor, with "custom" wiring. Secondary question is if the 90+ coil should even be run with a ballast resistor
People used those coils expecting some unrealistic increase in performance. You said you are going to throw a coil at it because of an issue. Do you want to do it right or the easy way?

I have seen resistive wire in the circuit off the ignition switch serving as a ballast resistor in 1990's vehicles. You should contact Accel if you want information on that coil.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top