which 20W for the winter??

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I run an 02' truck with a modular motor V8 that calls for 5W-20. I've been a consistent M1 user and have no complaints. With all the info here about how the distance has closed between dino's and syn's, I'm wondering if I'm wasting money? As of right now, which 20W's lead the pack as far as additives, performance and cold start protection are concerned? I average 9K/yr., MOSTLY short trip driving. Care to list your top five? thanks in advance.
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quote:

Originally posted by phillyFX4:
I run an 02' truck with a modular motor V8 that calls for 5W-20. I've been a consistent M1 user and have no complaints. With all the info here about how the distance has closed between dino's and syn's, I'm wondering if I'm wasting money? As of right now, which 20W's lead the pack as far as additives, performance and cold start protection are concerned? I average 9K/yr., MOSTLY short trip driving. Care to list your top five? thanks in advance.
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Hi,

I'd say that Motorcraft or Pennzoil would be at the top of the list.

Then Castrol, Halovine/Chevron and Mobil.

The last 3 are so close and really all are great.

The UOAs really do show the Dino 5w-20s to be impressive.

If it was me, I'd go with Pennzoil 5w-20 and twice a year OCI.

I would do a Spring - Fall OCI so you have fresh oil for the Winters and Summers.

Take care, Bill
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Is there a bad one? If possible, avoid that one and choose one of the other good ones.
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Havoline comes to mind as a good one.

The Amsoil 5W-20 is probably a good choice if you only want to change once a year.
 
Amsoil XL 5w-20 (Synthetic), Havoline 5w-20 (Conventional)

Havoline is bringing out a synthetic 5w-20 in October.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
I was only kidding - seriously we haven't seen any stinkers in the 5W-20 oils (that I can think of)! So the choice is really yours and this thread will be filled with everyone's personal opinion......but as I said Havoline, Redline, Amsoil, Pennzoil, etc have shown some awesome numbers.

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stupid, sometimes...lazy, definetly. Instead of doing research on this site I thought I'd take the "cliff notes" route and pick your guy's brains....."oils" seem to be changing constantly, just wanted opinions for the fall of '05 which I'll bet are going to be different than the fall of next year. You guys know alot more about this stuff than I do, stay safe
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The general consensus here is that Motorcraft 5w20 is similar to Conoco syn blend, and if I recall their 5w20 blend has a cold cranking value of 3500 cp @ -30, which is quite good.
 
I was only kidding - seriously we haven't seen any stinkers in the 5W-20 oils (that I can think of)! So the choice is really yours and this thread will be filled with everyone's personal opinion......but as I said Havoline, Redline, Amsoil, Pennzoil, etc have shown some awesome numbers.
 
You're doing short trip service ..you won't ever get any oil to its spec'd visc. Your 5w-20 may hit a 30 weight in your use by the time you shut off the engine.

I've found MC 5w-20 to work fine in stuff spec'd for 30 weight ..but I don't have UOA to back up my belief. It's just shown low/no consumption on engines that had varied consumption and Auto-Rx treatments
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I have used MC 5W-20 twice in my 05 escape and consumption was zero. I bought the 12 quarts I used for those 2 oci for $1 each when Wal-Mart was clearing out the MC brand last spring. I since bought 6 quarts of Castrol 5W-20 on sale at Autozone and am runninr that now. I want to see if there are any consumption differences between oils...

Either way, I think this will be my last run of dino before I switch to Mobil-1 5W-20. I want to run longer ocis and have heard good things about M-1
 
He has been running M1 5w-20 Syn and is asking using his outfit driven in the city mostly could he go to a Dino oil and still be safe and sound for his V-8.

I think his is wasting his $$ using M1 Syn.

In MY V-8 truck, Pennzoil dino showed BETTER UOAs than M1. It's a short trip truck also (like a mile or two per start
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)

Also, NO diff on MPG using the Syn to Dino.

If I was him, I'd RATHER go to 2 Oil changes per year using a good oil like Motorcraft, Pennzoil, halvoine, Etc, than once a year using Syn.

Driving a V-8 8 miles it's not getting close to warming up. He does not need to go to a 40 wt either. (I'm surprised this has not come up yet..)
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I'd bet that his UOAs will look just as good if not better with a 6 month / 5k OCI using 5w-20 dino than his previous M1 UOAs ....
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Take care, Bill
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Better in what way? Small differences in wear metals are meaningless. What about engine deposits and cleanliness? M1 would do a better job. Something people fail to remember at times.
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Hi Buster - some words from your stack of lubricant wisdom;

"Better in what way? Small differences in wear metals are meaningless. What about engine deposits and cleanliness? M1 would do a better job. Something people fail to remember at times.

I agree, and overall cost effectiveness must be considered too IMHO

Doug
 
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Better in what way? Small differences in wear metals are meaningless. What about engine deposits and cleanliness? M1 would do a better job. Something people fail to remember at times.

Hmm.. I've had my Ford Taurus engine apart twice in 108k and it was spotless (I looked at the heads and pistons @ 62k and 108k..like new) using .69 cent a quart oil for the 80+k that I owned it.

It was a rental so we all know how much care it got in it's first 21k miles...
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I've had my Valve cover off my Truck to fix a valve cover leak and it was spotless at 37k.. Again using .69 cent a quart Pennzoil.

My Dads Honda Civic that Honda had to replace the long block sure looked new when they had the cover off to place on the new engine. It saw 5w-20 Pennzoil @ 6k Ocis and was driven short trips most of the time. (by my dad who thinks 3k is redline.. )

My 1986 VW Jetta which has 250k miles on it and has NEVER has anything done to it (belts, Tires and Brakes.. Thats it) You can look on the top of the motor and it's spotless. REALLY! I've taken scope we have at work and looked at the whole top of the engine.

Gets the same MPG, runs great like it did when we bought it and passes smog with ease.

Oil used?? Mostly Halvoline and Fram filters, but it's seen QS and Valvoline too. All with Fram filters.

Every 4-5k OCI btw..

My Uncles 1978 Ford 351 V-8 4x4 which just passed 200k with little done to it.. (mostly water pumps) and we had the Valve covers off of it to replace the gaskets and clean..

His oil, QS dino for the first 100k then Valovine..

Would you agree that todays oil is better than 1980s / 1990s oil?

How is spending $4-6 a quart going to improve the engine? Cleaner? If the above engines are running perfect (well except the Head Gasket problems on the Ford Taurus and maybe Syn oil would have prevented that?) the engines are clean and lasting what to do?

I've used Syn in most of my outfits at one time and there was no diff to me.. (except the cost)

Why did I run it? Trying to get more MPG which I did not..

And please don't tell me to run oil for 25k miles or xx number of years. If others like to do that, EXCELLENT!
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(as they change filters out that cost more than the TOTAL cost of my Oil changes and have to top off with the same $4-6 qt oil..) Cost effective?
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I'm great they can do that.. But for me and my simple mind
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and the WARRENTY that I have to stay true too, Not going to happen.
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I'll have to go with what HAS worked for me and the outfits I've worked on.

We all need to face facts that there are millions of outfits in this world that never see the care that we give our cars/trucks and last hundreds of thousands of miles. And they have never seen or heard of syn oil. If they change their oil once a year with straight 30 wt they are lucky.

I'll agree that we will disagree!

Take care and thanks! Bill
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PS: I don't buy oil at retail prices so I've never spent $2.xx for regular Dino oil. The max I'll pay is less than a $1 and most of my Stash is well below that. So, I'd have to run syn 5-10 times as long to be cost effective.. And my time is worth nothing when I am at home and I like to change oil...(I buy outfits that are easy to work on...) (Am I a sick one or what?)
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Hi,
of course the cheap oil you can procure NOW in the US changes things - hence my reference to "cost effectiveness"

Much of the rest of the "developed world" is much better attuned to fuel/oil conservation than many people/organistaions are in the US
at the moment

You will shortly have to play catch-up and it may already have started - the hip pocket "nerve" will bite - we already pay about $A2.50 per litre for the cheapest "outdated" mineral oils and around $A18 per litre for the likes of M1 0w-40

Once this happens extended OCIs and the wasteful use of diminishing resources may mean something more!!

Doug
 
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