Where to mount aTrans cooler ?

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Since I live in Chicago, the temps here are extreme. I have a lot of stop & go driving and am considering the Trans cooler. It will be on both cars, 97 Inifiniti Q45 and 04 Mercury. I've done some research and here are some of the thoughts I've come across…

"Take it from an ASE Master Tech that specialized in automatic transmissions for the last five years of his career, ATF fluid temperature is a critical factor and too cold is very bad for the clutches on most factory designs.

Manufacturers want to please customers with smooth shifting transmissions so they do things to make the shifts soft. One of the things they do is orifice the flow of fluid into the clutch piston/hub assemblies. That means they force the fluid through a small hole in the spacer plate, slowing it down so the piston comes down on the plates and discs slower. This means they're sliding some. The time spent sliding is critical, too much sliding and they burn up, not enough and grandpa brings it back saying it bangs. Colder, thicker fluid goes through this orifice a lot slower and this is why too cold is bad, very bad.

You may wonder why they don't burn up in the winter time and why they shift firm right out of the garage in the morning and its 10 degrees outside. It's because the computer knows the ATF is cold (from the engine temperature sensor) and compensates for it (until the engine warms up) with higher line pressures. But if you put on an extra cooler and the fluid temps get too low, don't complain if the tranny dumps third gear. The computer doesn't know the fluid is cold. It only assumes it's hot because the engine is hot.

My instincts tell me run the fluid through the auxiliary cooler first, then through the factory cooler, just in case it needs a little warm up from the A/C condenser and radiator. Even if the radiator is 195 degrees, that's actually a pretty good temperature for ATF".

OH, I'm going with the stacked plate design.

"The "stacked plate" design cools the fluid that is sufficiently hot and thin enough to pass through the plate. Cooler and thicker fluid will bypass the plate, which is why it's more suitable filtering fluid after the OEM system has done its job. All things being normal, the stacked plate does little work, but it adds a safety measure when things get suddenly unequal. It probably would be working full time in Arizona, but be very much at home in Illinois-Indiana

I was also told "I was told to run the aux on return line for warranty purposes cause the radiator acts as a heating core in the winter“. Should this be taken into consideration? It takes me 10-15 minutes to even get the car defrosted.

“Fresh air that passes through a tranny cooler will be heated in that process, and it will develop turbulence for the next cooler in line, resulting in hot spots. The radiator, A/C condenser and OEM tranny cooler follow that“. NEVER KNEW THIS! So how would this “Turbulence” effect trans performance?

So, what are you guys thoughts. Should a Tranny cooler be mounted before the OEM radiator or after OEM, before entering back into the trans.

Oh, keep in mind this is still for a daily driver and I like plenty of heat inside the car in the winter time.
 
Your lower rad tank (or side tank) provides very little heat at colder temps. It is surely cooling the trans fluid to below normal operating temps all the time you're running (unless you're spinning tires in the snow). That is, although your trans will warm, it's not going to be warmed by the OEM cooler under most conditions (any condition if it's doing its job. You may not be able to cool the trans with a given rad temp ..but it will be cooler than the trans when it cannot do so). This is why I discount much of the rhetoric about this being important.

In any event, without getting too long winded, just throw on a thermostat configured as a diverter (one port plugged and a "T'd" return from both). At below 180F it goes to the OEM cooler, above 180F it goes to the auxiliary cooler. There's going to be some residual flow through both. That should satisfy all of your concerns. It should continually modulate between the two depending upon the trans temp. 180F should be more than enough to leave all of the velvet smooth shifting and whatnot while providing a sensible ceiling for operational temperatures.
smile.gif
 
On my vehicle ('96 windstar), if it had the factory towing package, the auxilary cooler would be mounted so that the transmission fluid flows through the cooler AFTER it has flowed through the radiator cooler.
This is how I have installed my auxillary cooler.

Another thing to take note of, when you have the A/C on, and the vehicle is not moving some minimum speed, the radiator fans will be ON.
This will help greatly to keep the transmission cool.

I would not be concerned about the fluid "not getting hot enough" in cold weather.
Short trip driving might be a concern.....but would be for the engine as well.
If you are running the engine for any period of time you are fine....as the fluid is getting warm enough to prevent any moisture build up issues.

I'll bet your Mercury is like my Windstar.......temperature sensor inside the transmission specificaly to sense the temperature of the transmission fluid....so that the PCM (engine computer) can compensate for the fluid temperature.......so the concern listed is not valid.
 
Your Infiniti (Nissan) also has an ATF temperature sensor, the controller does not assume the ATF temperature from the engine temperature as some mechanics may still insist.

Even if you don't have tecnhical information to tell you so, here is one way to determine that you have an ATF temperature sensor:

Most modern vehicles have a different mode of operating the AT until it reaches a set temperature, a bit like the engine doesn't go into "closed loop" until it reaches a given temperature. On Nissan transmissions of your vintage I've noticed that the torque converter does not lock up until the transmission has warmed up. An unlocked torque converter is a nice heat generator (and energy waster).

I've noticed this: Around freezing ambient temperature starting up in the morning it will take about 5-6 miles before the TC will lock up. The engine temp gauge has reached normal in half that time. After parking for a couple of hours in chilly wind the engine is back to cold, but upon driving off the transmission will lock up the TC as soon as speed+load conditions are met, even though the engine will take a few miles to warm up again. This suggests that the transmission did not cool down nearly as much as the engine did, and the computer(s) have a separate ATF temperature sensor to know this.

Long-winded, sorry.
 
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