quote:
Originally posted by bottgers:
BOBISTHEOILGUY
I emailed Valvoline to ask them what was in their anit-wear package that replaced the moly in their Maxlife. In their reply I was told the new anti-wear package meets or exceeds the performance of the old moly containing package. He also sent a spec sheet for the new Maxlife. Neither his explanation, nor the spec sheet told me what makes up the new anit-wear package. Looks fishy to me.
Not being a chemist, I'm not up to speed on all types of chemistry but let me tell you what I know about barrier additives.
A barrier additive either coats or bonds into the metal surface usually activated by heat. Each additive has a limited amount of resistance to pressure that has been measured. To date, I am not aware of ANY other additive that can withstand 500,000lbs psi. Most has a strength of around 15,000lbs psi. Now I'm suspect these measurements are in it's true form and not a soluble form. Either way, I'm sure the ep resistance by each are most likely going to show similar results as one higher than the other.
From my testing on the timken machine, I can plate up an oil with heavy amounts of zddp. I then can smack or shock load the handle and cut through the zddp back to metal. With moly, once plated I cannot. This is one difference between plating and coating. One lays a coat across the surface whereas the other impregnates to the heated surface.
Another thing, Moly is the slickest know F/M known. It is also used as a hardening agent for steel when manufactured. One such surface is quite common it cars, the rings around the piston. I'm not sure if they call it chrome moly rings or just moly rings(I keep getting conflicting info on that from different sources). Moly has apparently got a lot of different uses and has proven out to be an extremely beneficial additive to many different applications in the lubrication industry.
So to say someone has an additive that meets or exceeds moly's ability, I seriously doubt it.
quote:
Is Schaeffer's a high mileage oil?
There is no real answer to that question so let me explain what and why and how I do this.
First lets consider some points of what makes the difference in high mileage motor oils and not.
In my opinion, this is like what is the difference between a color tv ant and a black and white tv ant. (for those that are that old and can remember them selling them that way). Mostly it was advertising and packaging. They could get more for the one over the other because of marketing but yet both had to be the same in order for both to be able to receive on the bandwidth of the same tv signal. It was the tv and the transmitter that made the difference for color reception.
Along those same lines, from what I have seen as of date, what seems to make a motor oil high mileage is they use less detergents so not to upset the seals by cleaning them. In essence, most standard mineral oils would provide about the same service as a high mileage motor oil. Like most oils between each other, each have their little differences but none are going to stand out so much that you'll notice much if any difference between high mileage and standard oil.
From what I have seen, if you have a high mileage engine, stick with what you have been running as it got the engine to that point to start with so it's not going to clean off seals and start developing seal leak problems due to cleaning. If you do develop seal leaks, then it's time to try something like the auto rx or Schaeffers 131 neutra and see if that stops it. The so called seal swellant additives in motor oils are so mi nute that it is more to keep seals ply-able and once the seal has hardened, no oil will have enough conditioner to affect it enough without some help.
So that set aside, I have been using the Schaeffers oil and 131 for well over 7yrs now, combined with tims, davids,ron's 17yrs of experience, I not heard of oil leaks developing from the change over if properly determining taking into account age of engine,mileage,current oil being used, and current consumption. My last two vehicles prior to my current one, had 125,000 miles plus when I first switched them over.
I will not even hesitate to use the blend in a motor because I normally like to first use the 1oz to 1qt ratio of 131 about 500 miles prior to change over to eliminate any possible problems with the seals in an older engine as well as neutralizing the left over acids from the previous oil.
Keep in mind, this is only applicable to car/truck engines after the 70's. In equipment such as old farmers use, another story. I always find out what the current oil is being used (visc, mineral/blend/synth and such), prior to recommending a change over because obviously you want to avoid oil consumption and leaks as much as possible. If you have an old piece of equipment that has been using a st 40wt mineral, I will move him over to a str 40wt mineral as well, given that his bearings and such have such a clearance that to use a 15w40 would develop blowby, therefore you end up with oil consumption. Anyway, enough of this, just some things I look at when doing change overs.