Where do you go to get your Trans Fluid changed?
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Originally Posted By: Gabe
I took my truck to an AAMCO Transmissions. They don't add new fluid; they collect the old and run it through some filtering machine. I think it cost $120 if I remember correctly.
I would not have it done that way. Find a reputable shop that has the machine to do a total fluid transfer replacing the old with fresh fluid, after the pan drop and filter change. Also, make your fresh fill a very high quality ATF such as Redline, so that you don't have to change it as often and so it does not break down from heat.
Manual transmissions are easy enough to change at home. Use clear plastic hose that fits in the filler hole snugly and route it up into the engine bay to fill.
I had a 1990 Ford 460 V8 once where the auto transmission had a plug in the torque converter and between that and the pan, you could drain nearly the entire system. Nice. Now my 2005 Mountaineer has this bass akward system where you have to pump it in the drain hole--no dip stick. Guess it's another of the cost saving measures, a stand pipe in the drain plug is cheaper than a dipstick and tube.
I took my truck to an AAMCO Transmissions. They don't add new fluid; they collect the old and run it through some filtering machine. I think it cost $120 if I remember correctly.
Manual transmissions are easy enough to change at home. Use clear plastic hose that fits in the filler hole snugly and route it up into the engine bay to fill.
I had a 1990 Ford 460 V8 once where the auto transmission had a plug in the torque converter and between that and the pan, you could drain nearly the entire system. Nice. Now my 2005 Mountaineer has this bass akward system where you have to pump it in the drain hole--no dip stick. Guess it's another of the cost saving measures, a stand pipe in the drain plug is cheaper than a dipstick and tube.
I either go to the Ford dealer or a local independent NAPA shop that uses BG fluid and has full synthetic available.
Years ago I have had it done at a quick lube shop (QS) and also once at the dealer. Been doing it myself ever since. For good reason I don't trust others to touch my car unless I have to. If you can find a VIOC that has a good reputation, go there. I used to know a manager of a Belle Tire and he would always pick the better employees to work on my car and that was generally successful.
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
What are the negative aspects of the dipstick method?
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
What are the negative aspects of the dipstick method?
The negative aspects are: there is a filter in the trans that must be changed. Can't do that through the dipstick tube!
Also, you are merely diluting the old fluid. This method will never remove it all.
Also, you are merely diluting the old fluid. This method will never remove it all.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
The negative aspects are: there is a filter in the trans that must be changed. Can't do that through the dipstick tube!
Also, you are merely diluting the old fluid. This method will never remove it all.
This is why I alternate between the VIOC flushes and a pan drop. I go 20k miles and then alternate between the two types of services. Any transmission filter can go 40k miles.
So, every 20k miles, the transmission gets 1/3 new ATF and new filter and then in another 20k, it gets about 90% of it exchanged out.
Plus, I've heard from many transmission guys that on a used car, it's preferrable to leave a little old ATF in it to act as a buffer....because shocking an older Transmission with 100% fresh fluid can cause several different problems because of the sudden change in fluid pH....so a little old fluid left in helps with this transition.
The negative aspects are: there is a filter in the trans that must be changed. Can't do that through the dipstick tube!
Also, you are merely diluting the old fluid. This method will never remove it all.
This is why I alternate between the VIOC flushes and a pan drop. I go 20k miles and then alternate between the two types of services. Any transmission filter can go 40k miles.
So, every 20k miles, the transmission gets 1/3 new ATF and new filter and then in another 20k, it gets about 90% of it exchanged out.
Plus, I've heard from many transmission guys that on a used car, it's preferrable to leave a little old ATF in it to act as a buffer....because shocking an older Transmission with 100% fresh fluid can cause several different problems because of the sudden change in fluid pH....so a little old fluid left in helps with this transition.
I go here for auto transmission fluid changes and a lot of other work:
They do work on non Ford products as my son just had his Chevy S-10 in there last week.
They do work on non Ford products as my son just had his Chevy S-10 in there last week.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
I'll have to call them back because I specifically asked him he said they do a full flush/fill and use BG.
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm going here:
www.vioc.com
It sounds like VIOC is using the dipstick method. In that case, you may as well take it to Sears.
I'll have to call them back because I specifically asked him he said they do a full flush/fill and use BG.
Just did the cooler line drain/fill on my F-150. Used Mercon V to fill it.
Driveway.
I would call the dealer and see how much they want. That way you can see if other shops charge more/less for a transmission fluid change.
I always do all my fluid changes in my driveway and will be doing Manual Transmission fluid in the driveway very soon once I get from UPS it should be here this week because I ordered it Saturday night I believe. I bought Amsoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission fluid for my F23 Getrag Transmission.
Originally Posted By: buster
I'm trying to avoid the dealer and want to take my wife's Mazda 3 somewhere I can trust to do a good complete flush/fill of the trans fluid.
It will be getting this:
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf
Either do it at the dealer or change the ATF fluid yourself. DO NOT trust the generic autoshops. A lot of them change ATF in a way that can damage the transmission, by using a powerflush machine for example. Another issue is that run out of the mill shop will not always use a manufacturer recommended ATF. Instead they can give you some kind of generic ATF with an friction modifying additive like Lubegard. The dealer will only do it the right way for your particular transmission, but they will also use the EXACT fluid the manufacturer recommends.
I would also highly recommend to avoid specialized transmission shops. Most of them do ATF changes only as a way to fish for customers for expensive transmission rebuilds. I have encountered shoddy and dishonest people in there.
Finally, avoid the "generic" atf like Maxlife. It almost certainly does not exactly meet the requirements for your particular transmission fluid. For example, their literature is inconsistent. The claims on the back of bottle are different from the claims on the web site (e.g. with regards to Mercon V) It's a compromise to make it works on many different transmission. Don't risk damaging your transmission just to save a few bucks. Most dealers have exactly what you need. Either get ATF from dealer OR find a 3rd party one that's supposed to be approved by the manufacturer. Try to avoid a generic ATF that's "recommended for.." as opposed to "approved for" your application. Just my 2c.
For some reason, some people on this web site obsess about the slight differences in motor oil grades (say 20 grade vs 30 grade, or say 10W30 vs 5W30), yet so many are willing to put some kind of run out of the mill universal ATF into a transmission.
I'm trying to avoid the dealer and want to take my wife's Mazda 3 somewhere I can trust to do a good complete flush/fill of the trans fluid.
It will be getting this:
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf
Either do it at the dealer or change the ATF fluid yourself. DO NOT trust the generic autoshops. A lot of them change ATF in a way that can damage the transmission, by using a powerflush machine for example. Another issue is that run out of the mill shop will not always use a manufacturer recommended ATF. Instead they can give you some kind of generic ATF with an friction modifying additive like Lubegard. The dealer will only do it the right way for your particular transmission, but they will also use the EXACT fluid the manufacturer recommends.
I would also highly recommend to avoid specialized transmission shops. Most of them do ATF changes only as a way to fish for customers for expensive transmission rebuilds. I have encountered shoddy and dishonest people in there.
Finally, avoid the "generic" atf like Maxlife. It almost certainly does not exactly meet the requirements for your particular transmission fluid. For example, their literature is inconsistent. The claims on the back of bottle are different from the claims on the web site (e.g. with regards to Mercon V) It's a compromise to make it works on many different transmission. Don't risk damaging your transmission just to save a few bucks. Most dealers have exactly what you need. Either get ATF from dealer OR find a 3rd party one that's supposed to be approved by the manufacturer. Try to avoid a generic ATF that's "recommended for.." as opposed to "approved for" your application. Just my 2c.
For some reason, some people on this web site obsess about the slight differences in motor oil grades (say 20 grade vs 30 grade, or say 10W30 vs 5W30), yet so many are willing to put some kind of run out of the mill universal ATF into a transmission.
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