To Change Or Not To Change: Mazda ATF FZ Trans Fluid

I plan on using Aisin's version of Mazda FZ ATF when I change the FF in my daughters CX-30.
After reading an older post by DBMaster where he said his Mazda's FF fluid still looked good when he changed it at 60K (IIRC) I plan to wait until 50K. My only real decision is whether I will still add a bottle of LG Red as I've done on every A/T I've ever owned/serviced. Thoughts?
PS: Even though I've used Valvoline Maxlife and Castrol IMV in my Toyota's and Hyundai's without issues I'll stick with one of the blue Mazda FZ type A/Ts on the Mazda (Aisin and Ravenol make them)...I don't want to take a chance on it causing issues.
 
I think I would trust Aisin to make a good clone of the OE fluid (reported to be made by Idemitsu) since Aisin was supposed to be involved in the design of the Skyactiv A/T.
 
I plan on using Aisin's version of Mazda FZ ATF when I change the FF in my daughters CX-30.
After reading an older post by DBMaster where he said his Mazda's FF fluid still looked good when he changed it at 60K (IIRC) I plan to wait until 50K. My only real decision is whether I will still add a bottle of LG Red as I've done on every A/T I've ever owned/serviced. Thoughts?
PS: Even though I've used Valvoline Maxlife and Castrol IMV in my Toyota's and Hyundai's without issues I'll stick with one of the blue Mazda FZ type A/Ts on the Mazda (Aisin and Ravenol make them)...I don't want to take a chance on it causing issues.
Wow, I remember that old post. That was some time ago. I currently have 129,000 miles on the car and I have not touched the transmission again.
 
I ended up doing a D&R on my daughters CX-30 in June at 37K.
I used Aisin's blue FZ equivalent ATF. The D&R took 4 quarts 6 ounces so I substituted 6 ounces of LG Red so as not to have to open another quart of FZ fluid. All seems well with no change in shifting.

The OE fluid that drained out was yellowish rather than blue but I believe someone else wrote that they observed the same thing when they drained their OE fluid. In other words the blue fluid turns yellowish in use. Besides the yellowish appearance the drained fluid looked and smelled fine.
 
(I verified the shop used MV fluid, which supposedly meets FZ spec
If the shop told you that, then they aren't qualified to work on Mazdas, since there is no published spec for FZ, and knowledgeable people have said there is no alternative. I would be hesitant to use that shop again.
 
I would stick with Mazda FZ ATF.

I bought 7 quarts of FZ on Amazon and will do drain / refill on 2018 CX5 in a few weeks.
No filter change…. just the ATF.
 
Hi, first post here. I had an oil analysis done at 79k for my Mazda cx-5. They felt oil was as good as 29k batch. Even suggested me to go another 30-40k. The oil was a sample before my double flush. Using this knowledge I'm pushing my cx 9.

Compare to other companies, that you have to do earlier ones cvt... American Vehicles cough cough. The long term ownership isn't too bad. Let says you want to hit 200k? Once is enough. If you are "concern about" metal shaving. My 2 cent, if that was a major issue. They probably told us to bring car in after 500 miles for a flush like a normal motor oil.

Atf system is very high tech if you look into it. So they probably made sure system is clean before filling.

Last note. Don't go cheap. Stick with oem att. It's the one thing that is super picky. I used one of those universal one for my Honda Accord and it crap out. After I switched to OEM, it went back to normal.

Took chance a few years back for a 2000 RAV4, such a old car I didn't care. Luckily it works. But in that case, I did a whole pan drop. 240k, aft was black.
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I find it interesting that some people here obsess over finding ATF or engine oil that meets some German car maker's spec 1234.99 000 OU812, but then they want to question a Japanese manufacturer's specified fluid. That's how you get someone claiming Mazda just colors it blue so you have to buy that fluid. No one says that VW's or BMW's specs are nonsense and you can use any ol' ATF instead.

Mazda blue FZ does not interchange with anything else. Even Amsoil, Red Line, and the other boutique manufacturers don't try to claim their ATFs can be used in place of FZ. However, Ravenol has a bona fide FZ equivalent that is also blue.

I have access to Mazda in-house technical literature, and the material is very emphatic about not substituting any red ATF for FZ, not even past Mazda ATFs such as MV/M5.
ASIN has an FZ equivalent and they maybe the source of the Mazda spec oil.
 
Idemitsu makes FZ ATF for Mazda. There seem to be no published specs anywhere for it to allow comparison with other ATFs, but this is no surprise.
The spec sheet was published in 2012 and is available here: https://kemi.is/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/TOTAL-MAZDA-ORIGINAL-OIL-ATF-FZ-TDS.pdf

Idemitsu FZ specs are KV@40°C - 25, KV@100°C - 5.5, viscosity index 167.

Valvoline Maxlife specs here: https://go.lupinsys.com/valvoline/h...901e4b59d/search_api/Maxlife_ATF-PI_Sheet.pdf

Valvoline Maxlife specs are KV@40°C - 27.6, KV@100°C - 5.88, viscosity index 165.

These numbers are so close I would happily recommend Valvoline Maxlife as a suitable replacement/alternative for genuine Mazda/Idemitsu FZ automatic transmission fluid.

I'm in Australia; another suitable replacement fluid is possibly Penrite LV ATF (note that the KV is very close but the VI is lower than FZ spec): https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/ATF LV (Full Syn) .pdf

Penrite LV ATF specs are KV@40°C - 28, KV@100°C - 5.7, viscosity index 147.
 
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I purchased a 2016 CX-9 in August of 2021. In September of 2021 I had the trans fluid changed because the trans was doing something weird. Only from a cold start, for the first ten to fifteen minutes, the trans wants to shift way too fast into a high gear. Moving out slowly, by the time I'm up to ten miles an hour, it's already looking for fourth. After the vehicle is fully warmed up, the trans functions perfectly - literally perfect behavior both up and down shifting, imperceptible shift from park into drive or reverse, no slippage, etc. When the fluid was changed in September, what came out was red and looked perfect, clear and no metal particles. On a quest to figure out the weird behavior, I took it to my local Mazda dealer, whereupon I was informed the trans fluid currently in the vehicle is the wrong fluid. Mazda fluid is blue. I verified with the faciIity that did the trans service they used MV fluid. I did substantial checking around and found one facility who suggested FZ fluid is simply ATF with dye in it to make you believe you need to buy it from Mazda. While that seems questionable to me, I do want to do the right thing. So - what course of action to take now? Keep the MV fluid in it and move on? Go through a series of three fluid changes to move from MV to FZ? Any light that can be shown on this will be sooooo appreciated, including any theories on what might be causing the strange (cold) behavior.
Aisin is the maker of the transmission. You can get the blue fluild from them and screw Mazda. ATFMFZ and you can get it at Rock Auto. Just buy the right stuff.
 
On a quest to figure out the weird behavior, I took it to my local Mazda dealer, whereupon I was informed the trans fluid currently in the vehicle is the wrong fluid. Mazda fluid is blue. I verified with the faciIity that did the trans service they used MV fluid.

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/atf-type-m

Type M/MV fluid (for MV trans) KE@40 is 33.8. The genuine factory FZ fluid for your transmission KE@40 is 25. The oil is much too thick when cold to be suitable, although this post is from 2022. I'm not sure why Nicholas above has revived it from the dead.

See my post 2 posts higher for the figures/specs for FZ. There are suitable, cheaper aftermarket replacements that can be safely used.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-mazda-atf-fz-trans-fluid.356162/post-7012843
 
If it's a LV atf then try M1 LV HP atf. I use it in my 2017 Ford Fusion with the 6F35 trans and it shifts great, up and down. I order it from O'Reillys in the 6 pack.
 
If it's a LV atf then try M1 LV HP atf.
The specs for the Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP look like it's a great OEM replacement. Mobil specs are KV@40°C - 27, KV@100°C - 5.7, viscosity index 152 vs OEM Idemitsu KV@40°C - 25, KV@100°C - 5.5, viscosity index 167. I would add it to my list above tig1 but it won't let me edit it now. Great find.

Mobil 1™ Synthetic LV ATF HP specs here:
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...products/products/mobil-1-synthetic-lv-atf-hp
 
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My dealer charged $15 a quart for FZ in the Mazda bottle. My D&F took ~3.5 quarts. So $60.

Maxlife would've been $25/gal. Is it worth saving $35 several times in the life of a vehicle?

Maxlife can be had on special for $17. Is it worth saving $43 several times in the life of a vehicle?
 
Is it worth saving $43 several times in the life of a vehicle?
Only you can answer that. I'm in Australia where FZ fluid can only be bought from the dealer at massively inflated prices. Maxlife is an order of degrees cheaper, and given the CX5 that I linked to above has clocked half a million miles, I'm confident in aftermarket fluids, providing the viscosity is correct.
 
Aisin is the maker of the transmission. You can get the blue fluild from them and screw Mazda. ATFMFZ and you can get it at Rock Auto. Just buy the right stuff.
It’s not an Aisin transmission. It’s a Mazda in-house design and it’s manufactured by JATCO.
 
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