No way. I replaced and thermostat and the radiator cap, too. Turns out the new cap was defective and the system was losing coolant. Was a lot of problems trying to prevent future problems. After all that, it finally repaired.
When to replace radiator hoses?
- Thread starter GemStater
- Start date
As someone who typically keeps their vehicles a long time, I'll start looking at replacement of EPDM hoses at or just beyond the 20-year mark...and maybe before if I'm doing an in-depth repair that makes hose replacement easier and/or more accessible. My hose replacements always include all heater hoses as well, and usually a new thermostat and new pressure cap just for fun.
For example, I recently did a timing belt & water pump on my Caravan. Since I had to drain coolant anyway, I flushed the entire system and replaced all the hoses while everything was apart. Don't have to even think about it for a decade or more.
I'll soon be due for the 5-year coolant exchange on the 2008 Charger. Along the way I'll be replacing all the hoses and the pair of plastic hose tees.
We take too many long-distance road trips with our cars and don't need any surprises along the way.
For example, I recently did a timing belt & water pump on my Caravan. Since I had to drain coolant anyway, I flushed the entire system and replaced all the hoses while everything was apart. Don't have to even think about it for a decade or more.
I'll soon be due for the 5-year coolant exchange on the 2008 Charger. Along the way I'll be replacing all the hoses and the pair of plastic hose tees.
We take too many long-distance road trips with our cars and don't need any surprises along the way.
In most cases, you can remove the blown hose from the engine, disconnect good hose from core and connect where blown hose was (temorarily) and go on your way.
Last year, I had my nephew's car hauled off to the junkyard because he overheated and ruined the engine in his car due to a pinhole in a heater hose.
When I replaced the radiator on my 20 year old Ranger, I replaced the upper hose, steel conduit(rusty) and seals(leaky), but I left the original lower radiator hose because it still appeared to be in good condition.
If I'm working in the area, and they are old, I replace them. Otherwise, I just do a visual for swelling or oil contamination. But, that's just my preference. Same applies for vacuum hoses. Had plenty of PCV hoses go bad, but their always sucking in oil / vapors.
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
i’ve replaced the hoses on all of my vehicles. i wouldn’t let them roll much longer than 20 years. I am a hardcore Gates fan (all belts and hoses on my vehicles are gates). not a bad time to replace the serpentine belt either. i replace mine every 50k on the dot with green HD belts if available. cheap insurance.
Good point, I had a heater hose blow at the core once and it was scary. Coolant steam instantly fogged the windshield and I could not see anything. First time I was grateful for the sound of the rumble strips on the roads shoulder.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
I'm struggling with replacing the hoses on the recently acquired '07 Fusion. Being a SW car with 48k miles and always garaged everything underhood looks like new. On the other hand it's approaching 20 years old. We haven't decided if we're going to keep it long term yet. If I replace every coolant hose under pressure it will cost $500 including coolant, not what I was expecting. And these aren't OEM prices. For some reason Ford really complicated things with 2 piece hoses and twist/lock fittings and tees mid-hose and bypass hoses etc. I'm not sure I can get to all the hoses working in the garage so there's that too.
This photo from Ebay is the lower hose, the 2 larger pieces together are over $200 and the smaller to the overflow tank is around $30.
This photo from Ebay is the lower hose, the 2 larger pieces together are over $200 and the smaller to the overflow tank is around $30.
Ford also plays the game of "oh we couldn't possibly sell that $2 o-ring. You have to buy the entire hose for $65 when all you really need is the o-ring."
Many years ago,when the hose in question bulged at any mechanical connection the hose is squeezable, and bulged at connector, it is bad. Old device: bulging or squishy is bad.
Excellent advice for hernias, too!!
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
The expansion tank on our 16 YO BMW blew and I replaced it this past week. Some of our "immortal" and factory original EDPM hoses were definitely bulging, starting to crack, and no longer trustworthy. So I replaced them. I always liked Gates, but the new Gates top hose started leaking at the factory rubber/plastic joint. So this brand new Gates hose goes back and a BMW hose will replace it. Should have learned when Gates belts' quality declined the hoses were soon to follow.
I typically just replace when they don't look nice if they are not expensive, but if they are expensive I would probably monitor and replace when they start swelling.
I would replace those plastic fitting ones for sure if your keeping it. The joint is the Achilles heal. The rest I might leave unless there out at the same time.
And yes thats crazy price. Anyway to re-route things using a brass T and bulk hose?
If you are going to keep the vehicle until it goes to the boneyard, I say halfway through the vehicles lifespan.
Unless you see or feel the rubber getting hard or bulging. Then replace ASAP.
Constant tension clamps.
Unless you see or feel the rubber getting hard or bulging. Then replace ASAP.
Constant tension clamps.
Update: I've purchased and received the following hoses:
Dayco #72447 - $27.79 - Upper
Dayco #72019 - $7.76 - Lower
My finding is that the lower hose is a fairly close match to the original. At of cost of only $7.76, I think it's worth keeping. The upper hose leaves a lot to be desired as far as matching the original contours. This is the hose that's seen most often so it will stick out like a sore thumb when fitment isn't a close match. That matters to me. It's also the easiest hose in terms of monitoring for potential problems. So I'm considering returning the upper Dayco hose as I don't think it worth it's price of $27.79 and will continue running the original upper hose. Another factor is that radiator cap that came with the upper hose is rated at 20 PSI while the original is rated at 18 PSI. Getting a new cap with the new hose was part of the purchasing decision but that too fell a little short of expectations. I find it a bit absurd that AutoZone wants $82.99 for this hose while Amazon has it for $55.03. The original can be purchased from the Mopar dealer for $61.88. If I find the original hose is not going to make it, I'll go Genuine Mopar New for the upper.
Dayco #72447 - $27.79 - Upper
Dayco #72019 - $7.76 - Lower
My finding is that the lower hose is a fairly close match to the original. At of cost of only $7.76, I think it's worth keeping. The upper hose leaves a lot to be desired as far as matching the original contours. This is the hose that's seen most often so it will stick out like a sore thumb when fitment isn't a close match. That matters to me. It's also the easiest hose in terms of monitoring for potential problems. So I'm considering returning the upper Dayco hose as I don't think it worth it's price of $27.79 and will continue running the original upper hose. Another factor is that radiator cap that came with the upper hose is rated at 20 PSI while the original is rated at 18 PSI. Getting a new cap with the new hose was part of the purchasing decision but that too fell a little short of expectations. I find it a bit absurd that AutoZone wants $82.99 for this hose while Amazon has it for $55.03. The original can be purchased from the Mopar dealer for $61.88. If I find the original hose is not going to make it, I'll go Genuine Mopar New for the upper.
I bought Gates green and gold striped hoses years ago. I assume that's 'all over now'.
The OP's Dayco top hose seems carelessly designed...a poor showing by a company I thought was tops.
I bet the rightmost part would kink if installed.
The OP's Dayco top hose seems carelessly designed...a poor showing by a company I thought was tops.
I bet the rightmost part would kink if installed.
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