When is it NOT ok to change the ATF?
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
- Status
I always thought that the ATF shouldn't be changed once it had been burnt (changed color).
I think lot of shops won't touch a high mileage car because if there's a subsequent problem, they'll be blamed.
Not worth that headache.
I think lot of shops won't touch a high mileage car because if there's a subsequent problem, they'll be blamed.
Not worth that headache.
Originally Posted By: buster
I often hear people/places claim you shouldn't change the ATF after "x" amount of miles. Is this true, and if so, why? Wouldn't more frequent changes with new fluid be better for an ATF?
Theory is that the new fluid will dislodge old sludge and clog up the fluid channels.
I don't believe it myself.
I often hear people/places claim you shouldn't change the ATF after "x" amount of miles. Is this true, and if so, why? Wouldn't more frequent changes with new fluid be better for an ATF?
Theory is that the new fluid will dislodge old sludge and clog up the fluid channels.
I don't believe it myself.
IMHO it's just a common excuse for shops not touching intermittent or otherwise coming close to end of life transmission (not to get blamed for).
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
If you have every intention of maintaining your A/T box in good tip-top shape then changing ATF regularly makes good sense.
Q.
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
If you have every intention of maintaining your A/T box in good tip-top shape then changing ATF regularly makes good sense.
Q.
Bullocks. It is always OK to change, and obviously you should.
Clutch pack material floating around provides the necessary friction. New fluid means loss of this material and as a result slippage. This is what I was told. NOW I was also told that todays transmissions just need to be reset so the mechtronics can make the necessary calibration.
Originally Posted By: Quest
IMHO it's just a common excuse for shops not touching intermittent or otherwise coming close to end of life transmission (not to get blamed for).
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
If you have every intention of maintaining your A/T box in good tip-top shape then changing ATF regularly makes good sense.
Q.
Thanks, I was thinking this way as well. I never quite understood their reasoning but I think what GM said also applies: They don't want to be blamed.
IMHO it's just a common excuse for shops not touching intermittent or otherwise coming close to end of life transmission (not to get blamed for).
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
If you have every intention of maintaining your A/T box in good tip-top shape then changing ATF regularly makes good sense.
Q.
Thanks, I was thinking this way as well. I never quite understood their reasoning but I think what GM said also applies: They don't want to be blamed.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2010
- Messages
- 9,837
Originally Posted By: Quest
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).Q.
x2 - if the transmission fails after a fluid change, it was destined to fail anyway.
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).Q.
x2 - if the transmission fails after a fluid change, it was destined to fail anyway.
I have two examples in my life of changing high mileage, fluid never been changed before, auto transmissions that quickly went to their death afterwards, mid 70's Ford C6 and a early 90's Honda Accord. However, I would still do it again because if it is going to die from a fluid change, it's going to die anyhow. The only way I wouldn't is if I was going to sell the car cheap really soon.
Originally Posted By: BMWTurboDzl
Clutch pack material floating around provides the necessary friction. New fluid means loss of this material and as a result slippage. This is what I was told. NOW I was also told that todays transmissions just need to be reset so the mechtronics can make the necessary calibration.
In that case, brand new off the lot transmissions wouldn't work.
Clutch pack material floating around provides the necessary friction. New fluid means loss of this material and as a result slippage. This is what I was told. NOW I was also told that todays transmissions just need to be reset so the mechtronics can make the necessary calibration.
In that case, brand new off the lot transmissions wouldn't work.
Its always ok to change it and the more often you do the better off you are...every 30k is a good itnerval to stick with IMO
Originally Posted By: GROUCHO MARX
I think lot of shops won't touch a high mileage car because if there's a subsequent problem, they'll be blamed.
That statement is why a lot of shops will do a transmission flush, but they won't change the filter. A lawyer is easily able to convince an uninformed jury (or clueless judge) that a filter change destroyed the transmission, but if the shops says that all they did was change the fluid, the jury will side with them.
I think lot of shops won't touch a high mileage car because if there's a subsequent problem, they'll be blamed.
That statement is why a lot of shops will do a transmission flush, but they won't change the filter. A lawyer is easily able to convince an uninformed jury (or clueless judge) that a filter change destroyed the transmission, but if the shops says that all they did was change the fluid, the jury will side with them.
some cars never recommend ATF change for life span of the car ....
always read the owners manual. ( typical )
My Corolla'a ATF color is pretty much black and the owner manual states never change it unless shifting problems occur.
Use the dealership stuff to minimize any shifting problems in future. Many people get away with it , some end up killing their transmission in near future.
Changing your ATF always comes with risk of something not working at some point.
always read the owners manual. ( typical )
My Corolla'a ATF color is pretty much black and the owner manual states never change it unless shifting problems occur.
Use the dealership stuff to minimize any shifting problems in future. Many people get away with it , some end up killing their transmission in near future.
Changing your ATF always comes with risk of something not working at some point.
Some of these transmission failures could be due to the wrong fluid being used.
There are many different versions out there and some places believe generic with add packs are ok. Some even add some sort of snake oil to the fluid.
I recently changed out fluid 2 years past schedule. The fluid had gone out of color (light brown tinge) and there had been a lot of shifts in that time due to short trips (the mileage was only 6k above schedule).
I purchased the manufacturer's ATF and made sure I did a complete change. I changed the filter as well so got to see there was not any real issue in the pan.
The car immediately improved it's acceleration and all has been well for a year now.
The advice is that if you are at all worried, you should drop the pan and inspect that as part of the change. This will give you an idea if you should be worried.
There are many different versions out there and some places believe generic with add packs are ok. Some even add some sort of snake oil to the fluid.
I recently changed out fluid 2 years past schedule. The fluid had gone out of color (light brown tinge) and there had been a lot of shifts in that time due to short trips (the mileage was only 6k above schedule).
I purchased the manufacturer's ATF and made sure I did a complete change. I changed the filter as well so got to see there was not any real issue in the pan.
The car immediately improved it's acceleration and all has been well for a year now.
The advice is that if you are at all worried, you should drop the pan and inspect that as part of the change. This will give you an idea if you should be worried.
I agree with the excuse because the shop feels the transmission is on its way out and does not want to be blamed for anything. Its a loosing situation if they touch the transmission even if they got the owner to sign a paper saying they were not responsible.
So if you are going to change the filter and if you are going to use the right ATF then do a full ATF exchange however you want.
Now if you are pushing the vehicle into the shop because of a transmission problem, don't expect a flush to fix it.
So if you are going to change the filter and if you are going to use the right ATF then do a full ATF exchange however you want.
Now if you are pushing the vehicle into the shop because of a transmission problem, don't expect a flush to fix it.
JHZR2
Staff member
I was just having this discussion over on the PeachParts Diesel Forum, because there are lots of folks over there with 200k+ ATs which need service.
One place where I saw discussion is:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-...-neglected.html
One place where I saw discussion is:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-...-neglected.html
Never too late. I got a 20 year old cutlass ciera 3300/4T60 that slipped in every gear over first. (dummy me, I test drove it up and down the driveway, seller was worried b/c he "didn't have insurance
) Turns out the modulator was shot and the clutches didn't quite have enough pressure. The pan was a mess of gray silt as was the filter, I'm sure. New filter, new fluid, new adjustable modulator... got another 18k out of that tired transmission.
Auto transmission service or maintenance I have never done. So for someone as stupid as me, can someone explain what needs to be done? I can assume changing the fluid, but is that done by some type of pump or is the actual pan dropped?
Originally Posted By: Quest
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
This is more common with radiators and the cooling system. I call it the weak link syndrome. Replace the weakest link, and you now have another weak link somewhere else.
Customer comes in because his radiator hose is leaking. It has been leaking for over a year, but now it is real bad, so he wants it replaced. Hose gets replaced and now the heater core starts to leak. Customer gets angry, but has it changed anyways. Now the weak link in the chain is the radiator and it starts to leak. Customer thinks the mechanic messed up his car.
Common housewifey's tales typically blame trannie that reaches end of life on most recent mechanical servicing event (e.g. trannie flush).
This is more common with radiators and the cooling system. I call it the weak link syndrome. Replace the weakest link, and you now have another weak link somewhere else.
Customer comes in because his radiator hose is leaking. It has been leaking for over a year, but now it is real bad, so he wants it replaced. Hose gets replaced and now the heater core starts to leak. Customer gets angry, but has it changed anyways. Now the weak link in the chain is the radiator and it starts to leak. Customer thinks the mechanic messed up his car.
- Status
