When do you start using High Mileage Oil?

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I am nearing the end of a year-long clean-out period in my Kia. Back when I was an apartment dweller, I relied on the manual and the dealer for my oil changes. The manual calls for 7500mi OCIs, so that's what I did. Now I have a house and a garage, and I enjoy doing my own car maintenance again.

At about the 93k mi. mark, I got a Check Engine light, although the car ran fine. I researched the code and found it was related to an oil pressure sensor that drives the VVT. I talked to a mechanic friend that said that there is a screen in front of the sensor that will sometimes get clogged. He suggested an engine flush with the current oil, and a couple of short 3k OCIs on a quality dino oil.

I did the flush, two courses of VWB at 3k, one course of VGB at 3k. During this time, I found the BITOG site, and learned a lot about engine oil. I decided that my last OCI should be PP for 7k and let the oil do its job.

The Check Engine light has not appeared since the engine flush, and the dipstick is free from varnish, once again.

Now that I am relatively sure that my engine is clean, I am wondering what I should do about OCIs for the long-term. I am confident that I can do 5-7k mi OCIs again, as long as I am using a quality oil. But the engine now has over 107,000 miles on it. Should I start using a High-Mileage oil? I've always thought of them as Snake Oil before, but looking at the UOAs and VOAa, I'm thinking they have some benefit. The engine runs like a dream. No oil useage, no leaks, and very quiet. The oil looks better after 3k mi than my old Sable did after 1k miles.

Do I wait until there are signs of wear (oil leaks and consumption) or do I start using now to get ahead of the game?

Thanks.
 
I think high mileage oil is just an opportunity for the oil makers to make more money. Isn't the high mileage oil more expensive?
 
I think the main indicator would be when it is using oil. High mileage supposedly has additives that swell seals and reduce oil leaks as well as additives that reduce sludge in an old engine.
 
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If u are already useing PP u don't need to go to a HM oil.. the pp will do more than the Hm will do... IMO Iam with the last response for the most part just another way to raise the price and make more money..even though that some of them are coming back with good UOA's.. its okay with the HM if had been using conventioanl oil most of its life..Hm oil usually says 75000 miles or more. Good luck in what u choose.
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I think the main indicator would be when it is using oil. High mileage supposedly has additives that swell seals and reduce oil leaks as well as additives that reduce sludge in an old engine.


I'm not really sold on the HM thing either, but if it does do what it claims (swells seals and all), than he should keep using it and not go back to regular dino because the seals will start acting up again? (Just a hook for the HM oil?)

______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
91 Dakota 4x4-5-30 QSGB and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter
 
In my experience HM oils cost about the same. IIRC Mobil 1 HM is exactly the same price.
I have read here that using a HM oil after everything is leaking and blow out is pointless. its best to use a HM oil before all that starts to happen otherwise no oil will ever fix a bad seal.

I am planning on using HM oil in my jeep next OCI, it will have 83k miles on it, its 11 years old. so far there are a few wet spot around some seals and around the rear main seal but nothing is leaking bad enough to drip oil or require any top off oil. so I think its the perfect time to start before it gets any worse.
I think age is a big factor and not just miles.
 
The HM oils often have slightly stronger add packs in them at very little extra cost, so that in itself is appealing.
 
PP will clean out your engine and will expose leaks that was originally plugged up. I used PP one time and it even took the varnish off of my dip stick, but now I have a small leak on the valve covers. I just replaced the PP with MaxLife to see if it will seal the small leak, if not I will replace the gasket one day.
 
I started using M1 HM at 150k miles, and it did slow down oil consumption compared to the regular M1 that I had been using.

As far as cost is concerned, at my local Meijer store, M1 is $6.69/qt, and M1 HM is $6.49/qt.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
The HM oils often have slightly stronger add packs in them at very little extra cost, so that in itself is appealing.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I started using M1 HM at 150k miles, and it did slow down oil consumption compared to the regular M1 that I had been using.

As far as cost is concerned, at my local Meijer store, M1 is $6.69/qt, and M1 HM is $6.49/qt.


Mobil 1 HM is very good oil with a strong add pack. I have used it in new and high mileage cars and it performed great.

PP is also a very good oil and I currently have it in two vehicles.
 
This is an engine around 100K now?
That isn't high mileage.
If the engine is neither leaking nor consuming noticeable amounts of oil, it doesn't need an HM oil.
If and when the engine shows leaks around the front or rear main seals, or if it begins consuming a lot of oil, you might then consider a high mileage oil.
Unless or until that happens, PP is good stuff and is what you could use.
Our two oldest cars have both oil leaks and oil consumption, so I'm trying HM oils in both.
May help, won't hurt.
In the absence of leaks and/or consumption, I simply use regular oil, like the PP in our fifteen year old 203K Accord.
I think it probably qualifies as high mileage and it remains a daily driver.
 
I put my Blazer on a M1 High Milage diet at around 80K. Although 80K really isnt considered really high milage, the Blazer had a life a neglected OCI's before I got it. M1 High Milage is the same price as other M1 blends. Using a High milage oil before seals and gaskets start leaking kinda makes some senses to me, thats why I started when I did.
 
I throw it in a new used car, unless the owner specifically is on the up and up, discloses without a doubt use of full synthetic and I can verify no oil leaks around gaskets, etc.

Drive, change oil with HM oils for about 1 year and then go to a synthetic of choice.
 
Since the car shows no signs of consumption or leaks, I am going to leave well enough alone, and stick with a non-high mileage oil.

If it starts leaking, or consuming, I will switch.

I am confident that I can run 7.5k OCIs on PP, or the QSUD I picked up for 57 cents after the MIR. If I go with regular dino, I would go with 5k OCIs. I put on about 15k a year. That means its either 2 oil changes a year on PP, or 3 changes a year on PYB. Either way the cost is the same.
 
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