What's the inside of your engine look like?!

Originally Posted by buster
While all these engines are clean, if I had to rank them, the engines running Redline look the cleanest lol.



I would consider the mileage on those two Redline examples and compare it to Tig1's photo using Mobil1 20 grade at a quarter of a million miles.
 
Originally Posted by harry j
[Linked Image]



I have 560,000 miles on my Civic now, I think There was 541,000 miles when I had my valves adjusted.

That's as clean as, or cleaner than some engines posted on this site with 1/5th or even less the miles on them. Nice!
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
yes sir... Redline is Mr. Clean for engines


ðŸ‘...Ž
 
Exactly why when I see my OLM at 50% and I have 4K on a synthetic blend I change the oil. If I were to actually believe the monitor I'd have Mobil Ap or castrol edge in it that says 20k on the bottle. My 08 impala is the first GM I've ever owned and once I got the worthless afm shut off I like the car.

Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
GM 2.4l, Ecotec, with GDI, 89K miles, on quick lube oil changes and following the bogus Oil Life Monitor. This was taken during a timing chain replacement. Thankful it only slipped a few teeth and did not destroy the pistons and valves.

So we have an oil related engine failure and nobody acknowledges? Funny. Where are all the "oil will never cause an engine to fail" people at on this one?



How are you able to determine this is a lubercant related failure? Are you able to sample the oil, conduct a tear down, measure, and recreate the failure via this forum?



It's not oil related due to the oil used, its oil related due to the piece of garbage GM OLMs weve all come to know and love
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
Exactly why when I see my OLM at 50% and I have 4K on a synthetic blend I change the oil. If I were to actually believe the monitor I'd have Mobil Ap or castrol edge in it that says 20k on the bottle. My 08 impala is the first GM I've ever owned and once I got the worthless afm shut off I like the car.

Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Talent_Keyhole said:
GM 2.4l, Ecotec, with GDI, 89K miles, on quick lube oil changes and following the bogus Oil Life Monitor. This was taken during a timing chain replacement. Thankful it only slipped a few teeth and did not destroy the pistons and valves.

So we have an oil related engine failure and nobody acknowledges? Funny. Where are all the "oil will never cause an engine to fail" people at on this one?



How are you able to determine this is a lubercant related failure? Are you able to sample the oil, conduct a tear down, measure, and recreate the failure via this forum?



It's not oil related due to the oil used, its oil related due to the piece of garbage GM OLMs weve all come to know and love

I have zero confidence in my OLM. I'll go by what has worked for me for over 40 years now, and in the past few years checked via UOA. I set a mile limit, and change the oil when I hit that limit, very simple. My OLM would have me change the oil [give or take a little] at 8,000 miles, and 1,600 miles under virtually the same driving conditions/season. If it were an option when I bought the cars I would have passed on it. A big no thanks for me.
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
yes sir... Redline is Mr. Clean for engines


Well ya. When metal is constantly being polished off the surface it should look super clean.
 
*Secret To A Clean Engine* ? ... I'll take a stab at it below :

- Use D1 / Gen 2 / SN+ Synthetic Oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are not a bad place to start) ; higher mileage engines use Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic Oil (more detergents)
- Use a good quality oil filter
- Error on the side of shorter OCI's (i.e. 5K mile OCI )
- Keep PCV valve in good working order (clean or replace as required)
- Every 20K miles run Seafoam using 1 oz. per quart of oil capacity through the crank case for last 100 ~ 300 miles before oil change OR substituting one quart of oil with 1 qrt. of Rislone for the oil OCI
- Use Top Tier gasoline
- Every 5K miles run a bottle of Techron (or other PEA based gas additive cleaner) to fuel tank and run down below 1/4th of a tank left right before oil change

The above is all I know to do - no matter , some engines just are better at staying clean (due to design) than other engines ... Until someone shows me a better engine cleanliness protocol - I'll stick to what I listed above .
 
Originally Posted by harry j
[Linked Image]



I have 560,000 miles on my Civic now, I think There was 541,000 miles when I had my valves adjusted.


Very nice! So clean, and the metal is not even really discolored at all! Mind me asking what oil you are using?
 
Originally Posted by njohnson
Originally Posted by harry j
[Linked Image]



I have 560,000 miles on my Civic now, I think There was 541,000 miles when I had my valves adjusted.


Very nice! So clean, and the metal is not even really discolored at all! Mind me asking what oil you are using?


Good question!
Maybe more conservative oci as well?
 
Don't like speaking for him, but he's got a great thread that I highly recommend reading with his UOAs and pictures of the car here. He's been running Amsoil 0W-30 for a while now.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*Secret To A Clean Engine* ? ... I'll take a stab at it below :

- Use D1 / Gen 2 / SN+ Synthetic Oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are not a bad place to start) ; higher mileage engines use Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic Oil (more detergents)
- Use a good quality oil filter
- Error on the side of shorter OCI's (i.e. 5K mile OCI )
- Keep PCV valve in good working order (clean or replace as required)
- Every 20K miles run Seafoam using 1 oz. per quart of oil capacity through the crank case for last 100 ~ 300 miles before oil change OR substituting one quart of oil with 1 qrt. of Rislone for the oil OCI
- Use Top Tier gasoline
- Every 5K miles run a bottle of Techron (or other PEA based gas additive cleaner) to fuel tank and run down below 1/4th of a tank left right before oil change

The above is all I know to do - no matter , some engines just are better at staying clean (due to design) than other engines ... Until someone shows me a better engine cleanliness protocol - I'll stick to what I listed above .

I can agree with most here but shorter OCI's only if you're a heavy city driver vs highway. 90% highway? go 8-10K easy assuming you don't have an engine that burns oil or dilutes it with fuel.
PCV being user serviceable is something new to me and I never realized. I'm changing mine this weekend.
Top tier gas is another thing I'm not so sure of. I don't know if I've ever noticed a 'bad gas' fill up in my life.
I don't love the idea of oil cleaning additives unless you inherited a crusty engine but even then, I'd just run good cleaning full synthetic and let it slowly do it's job.
 
This was at 195K on the 2007 Fusion. This engines still remains very clean at 10K OCIs with M1 20wt oils.
[Linked Image]
 
We need to keep this thread going!

Honda Fit/Jazz 1.3 2009 @57k miles. The car runs mostly on E100 (ethanol)

Oils used until today: Honda 10W30 (Mineral) up to 2016 / Honda 0W20 (2017~2018) / Shell Helix HX8 5W30 (2019) / Motul Syn-nergy 5W30 (current)

OCI's around 4-5k miles @ 1~1,5 years. Picture taken before the oil change:

WhatsApp Image 2022-09-09 at 08.23.36.jpeg
 
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