I would use the Mobil dino in your case with the two that you listed. The Mobil has mush better cold weather specs that would be more useful in IL. The Castrol pumps at 3100 @ -25f, and has a pour point of -27f. Not good. Mobil dino has 5500 @ -30f.
what would you do
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MolaKule
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I would never use a thin solvent such as MMO under any conditions excpet maybe as an engine flush in which the MMO only stays in for 10 minutes at idle immediately before draining.
Go with the Mobil 1 and forget the MMO.
Go with the Mobil 1 and forget the MMO.
All I know is.....I wouldn't lose sleep over it! There are better reasons not to sleep!
the quik lube guy today told me the dino oil was valvoline... havent heard the best stuff about it...
ive ran MMO in all my previous cars... helped them run a LOT better in some cases...
so, what do you all think of valvoline dino oil?
ive ran MMO in all my previous cars... helped them run a LOT better in some cases...
so, what do you all think of valvoline dino oil?
I cant sleep at night, this decision is killing me
would you either
use mobil or castrol 5w30 dino oil with quart of MMO changed every 2k , with no cost for the oil
or, mobil 1 10w30 synthetic changed every 3-4k?
I dont know if dino oil changed every 2k can still compare to the advantages of the mobil1, protection, detergents, keeping the engine clean and what not....
would you either
use mobil or castrol 5w30 dino oil with quart of MMO changed every 2k , with no cost for the oil
or, mobil 1 10w30 synthetic changed every 3-4k?
I dont know if dino oil changed every 2k can still compare to the advantages of the mobil1, protection, detergents, keeping the engine clean and what not....
Patman
Staff member
I would go with the Mobil 1, but I wouldn't change it as soon as 3-4k. You can stretch it out much more. At least stretch it to 5-6k to get your money's worth out of it.
I've used a bit of MMO now and again, mostly in gas but occasionally in oil. My suspicion is that it will lower some specs but make things a bit more detergenty. Maybe something like Mobil Drive Clean.
Whether you're changing dino at 2K or syn. at 4K, you're changing far too much. You can easily double both those figures, and stop losing sleep over it!
Whether you're changing dino at 2K or syn. at 4K, you're changing far too much. You can easily double both those figures, and stop losing sleep over it!
Patman
Staff member
Based on virgin analysis, the Valvoline dino oils look to have a very very weak additive package. I don't think they are very good personally.
Big mistake (IMHO). There is really no good reason to use it. It probably has some AW properties but you will be running with something less than a 30 wt. And who knows how it will affect the carefully designed additive package with your present oil. I do use it in my gas every now and then and I am violating my own principles. But I feel it adds a little lube to the gas to protect the piston area a little better. I do know it increases my gas milage.
eldawg4100,
I know how you feel! I went thru the same "sleepless nights" when I was thrashing over the decision myself. At the time, I was changing dino oil in 2 cars every 3k miles, so I was changing oil every 4-6 wks. At first I wanted to switch simply to spend less time changing oil (& to cut down on used oil), but I was struggling with the cost difference. Then I started to learn that most premium synthetics are in better condition after 10k miles than most dinos are after 2k. It took me about 6 mos of reading everything I could find (& mental ping-pong) before I made a decision.
Based on what I learned at that time (about 3 yrs ago), I started running full syn oil for 10k mile intervals. What I continue to learn here simply reinforces my decision. I don't save any money over buying dino oil, but
1) I'm getting BETTER engine protection
2) I'm spending LESS time changing oil
3) I'm creating LESS waste
4) I don't have to REMEMBER when I last changed the oil in either car
Considering your choices, it's hard to justify giving up free oil. I'm assuming you're changing it so frequently because you want better protection (not because you like changing oil). I fully believe the M1 10W-30 will be providing better protection at 10k miles than your dino choices will be after 2k miles. If you don't feel comfortable going that long, change your oil filter at 5k miles. Besides getting a fresh filter you'll add at least 1/2 qt of new oil, & that will give additional boost to your protection.
I know how you feel! I went thru the same "sleepless nights" when I was thrashing over the decision myself. At the time, I was changing dino oil in 2 cars every 3k miles, so I was changing oil every 4-6 wks. At first I wanted to switch simply to spend less time changing oil (& to cut down on used oil), but I was struggling with the cost difference. Then I started to learn that most premium synthetics are in better condition after 10k miles than most dinos are after 2k. It took me about 6 mos of reading everything I could find (& mental ping-pong) before I made a decision.
Based on what I learned at that time (about 3 yrs ago), I started running full syn oil for 10k mile intervals. What I continue to learn here simply reinforces my decision. I don't save any money over buying dino oil, but
1) I'm getting BETTER engine protection
2) I'm spending LESS time changing oil
3) I'm creating LESS waste
4) I don't have to REMEMBER when I last changed the oil in either car
Considering your choices, it's hard to justify giving up free oil. I'm assuming you're changing it so frequently because you want better protection (not because you like changing oil). I fully believe the M1 10W-30 will be providing better protection at 10k miles than your dino choices will be after 2k miles. If you don't feel comfortable going that long, change your oil filter at 5k miles. Besides getting a fresh filter you'll add at least 1/2 qt of new oil, & that will give additional boost to your protection.
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