What would you do? Replaced alternator for nothin
- Thread starter kacey25
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What do you mean when you say you've heard electrical noise in car speakers? Dont know what that means.
))))))))))))
I just meant I've seen alternators cause electrical wine in circuitry. and the wine or HUM can grow or decrease with RPM(as in follow it). Sounds like your hearing excessive mechanical wine from the alternator in just lifting the hood and the rebuilt one is making the same noise.
))))))))))))
I just meant I've seen alternators cause electrical wine in circuitry. and the wine or HUM can grow or decrease with RPM(as in follow it). Sounds like your hearing excessive mechanical wine from the alternator in just lifting the hood and the rebuilt one is making the same noise.
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It is normal for some alternators to whine under load. Your first mechanic probably correctly identified where the noise was coming from. My experience has been that when a diode is on the way out, the noise is more of a warble.
Another possibility is that the defroster and other high loads may pull the idle speed down just enough to make something else whine - like the PS pump.
Another possibility is that the defroster and other high loads may pull the idle speed down just enough to make something else whine - like the PS pump.
So let me get this:
1) You get free advice from one of the great mechanic
2) You take your car to a different mechanic and TELL him what to do
3) You get upset because the car was not fixed right.
He had already indicated that buying anything but OEM will give you problems. Apparently, your previous rebuilt now gave you problem. You still did not listen to him and put yet another rebuilt.
Where do we get these guys from? More importantly, why do they think that this is the place to whine? I think we should send them over the GarageJurnal or iATN where they will get properly skewered.
For God's sake, when you "tell" your mechanic do something, you assume *all* the risks. You have to be imbecile not to understand that.
P.S. carnoobie had a Honda, did he upgrade to RSX now?
1) You get free advice from one of the great mechanic
2) You take your car to a different mechanic and TELL him what to do
3) You get upset because the car was not fixed right.
He had already indicated that buying anything but OEM will give you problems. Apparently, your previous rebuilt now gave you problem. You still did not listen to him and put yet another rebuilt.
Where do we get these guys from? More importantly, why do they think that this is the place to whine? I think we should send them over the GarageJurnal or iATN where they will get properly skewered.
For God's sake, when you "tell" your mechanic do something, you assume *all* the risks. You have to be imbecile not to understand that.
P.S. carnoobie had a Honda, did he upgrade to RSX now?
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So let me get this:
1) You get free advice from one of the great mechanic
2) You take your car to a different mechanic and TELL him what to do
3) You get upset because the car was not fixed right.
He had already indicated that buying anything but OEM will give you problems. Apparently, your previous rebuilt now gave you problem. You still did not listen to him and put yet another rebuilt.
Where do we get these guys from? More importantly, why do they think that this is the place to whine? I think we should send them over the GarageJurnal or iATN where they will get properly skewered.
For God's sake, when you "tell" your mechanic do something, you assume *all* the risks. You have to be imbecile not to understand that.
P.S. carnoobie had a Honda, did he upgrade to RSX now?
Yo Vikas, having a bad day? I do, however, like your P.S., since it's not my RSX.
So let me get this:
1) You get free advice from one of the great mechanic
2) You take your car to a different mechanic and TELL him what to do
3) You get upset because the car was not fixed right.
He had already indicated that buying anything but OEM will give you problems. Apparently, your previous rebuilt now gave you problem. You still did not listen to him and put yet another rebuilt.
Where do we get these guys from? More importantly, why do they think that this is the place to whine? I think we should send them over the GarageJurnal or iATN where they will get properly skewered.
For God's sake, when you "tell" your mechanic do something, you assume *all* the risks. You have to be imbecile not to understand that.
P.S. carnoobie had a Honda, did he upgrade to RSX now?
Yo Vikas, having a bad day? I do, however, like your P.S., since it's not my RSX.
Originally Posted By: kacey25
Originally Posted By: pottymouth
Did you pay the first guy for his diagnosis?
No why?
If you don't get it now, you probably never will.
Originally Posted By: pottymouth
Did you pay the first guy for his diagnosis?
No why?
If you don't get it now, you probably never will.
You are at fault period.
You got free advice from a good mechanic who would have fixed the issue with a high quality new part.
You TOLD MECHANIC #2 to replace a failing Reman alternator with another junk Reman, rather than diagnose an fix the problem.
You are the only party at blame here+
You got free advice from a good mechanic who would have fixed the issue with a high quality new part.
You TOLD MECHANIC #2 to replace a failing Reman alternator with another junk Reman, rather than diagnose an fix the problem.
You are the only party at blame here+
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
What do you mean when you say you've heard electrical noise in car speakers? Dont know what that means.
))))))))))))
I just meant I've seen alternators cause electrical wine in circuitry. and the wine or HUM can grow or decrease with RPM(as in follow it). Sounds like your hearing excessive mechanical wine from the alternator in just lifting the hood and the rebuilt one is making the same noise.
You know what, youre right. A mech friend of mine (who is in another city but hes very good with cars) told me to start the car, and I will see two plugs to my altnerator, a black one and a green one. Can see here, http://oi60.tinypic.com/2q9cboi.jpg (sorry for sideways pic, you have to turn your head to the left to see it right).
He said to start the car, get it hot and unplug the green one. Check for whine.
I did this and guess what! started the car, let it warm up cause its -15 here today. Didnt want to rev the engine cold.
Unpluged the green plug, reved the car with rear defrost on, no whine. Even tried it a few times to confirm. Plugged the green plug back in, did same thing...whine is back.
Not sure how the car can still run with the alt unplugged but i was surprised. Im guessing the extra strain gets redirected to the engine.
So does that mean my first mech was right and it is the alternator? If so, ill go back Monday and demo for the guy and get him to put another one in.
I never would have thought that the odds of getting another alternator to have bad diodes as well. But like i said it happens and was a possibility.
What do you mean when you say you've heard electrical noise in car speakers? Dont know what that means.
))))))))))))
I just meant I've seen alternators cause electrical wine in circuitry. and the wine or HUM can grow or decrease with RPM(as in follow it). Sounds like your hearing excessive mechanical wine from the alternator in just lifting the hood and the rebuilt one is making the same noise.
You know what, youre right. A mech friend of mine (who is in another city but hes very good with cars) told me to start the car, and I will see two plugs to my altnerator, a black one and a green one. Can see here, http://oi60.tinypic.com/2q9cboi.jpg (sorry for sideways pic, you have to turn your head to the left to see it right).
He said to start the car, get it hot and unplug the green one. Check for whine.
I did this and guess what! started the car, let it warm up cause its -15 here today. Didnt want to rev the engine cold.
Unpluged the green plug, reved the car with rear defrost on, no whine. Even tried it a few times to confirm. Plugged the green plug back in, did same thing...whine is back.
Not sure how the car can still run with the alt unplugged but i was surprised. Im guessing the extra strain gets redirected to the engine.
So does that mean my first mech was right and it is the alternator? If so, ill go back Monday and demo for the guy and get him to put another one in.
I never would have thought that the odds of getting another alternator to have bad diodes as well. But like i said it happens and was a possibility.
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Your cheapness screwed you. Yank the serp belt spin the pullys and see which one is dragging.
You pay a mechanic to change a part on the cheap and that's what you get.
You pay a mechanic to change a part on the cheap and that's what you get.
My understanding of diodes is either they are good or bad in most cases. If anyone can predict or divine impending diode failure, they are gods of electricity. Many charging system testers do a diode check or they are assumed good if the alternator output equals designed output specs.
I think the replacement alt is good, as well as the one replaced. This means the added load during high demand is causing noise, possibly in other bearings in the belt drive. If the noise is electrical I don't know since the possibility of two alternators with a bad diode in a row would be statistically improbable.
I'd try to buy the replaced one for the core charge for a spare.
I think the replacement alt is good, as well as the one replaced. This means the added load during high demand is causing noise, possibly in other bearings in the belt drive. If the noise is electrical I don't know since the possibility of two alternators with a bad diode in a row would be statistically improbable.
I'd try to buy the replaced one for the core charge for a spare.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
My understanding of diodes is either they are good or bad in most cases. If anyone can predict or divine impending diode failure, they are gods of electricity. Many charging system testers do a diode check or they are assumed good if the alternator output equals designed output specs.
There are six diodes in a bridge rectifier. When one or two of those diodes go bad you get AC ripple and a resulting whine. Many refurbishers do not replace the bridge rectifiers.
My understanding of diodes is either they are good or bad in most cases. If anyone can predict or divine impending diode failure, they are gods of electricity. Many charging system testers do a diode check or they are assumed good if the alternator output equals designed output specs.
There are six diodes in a bridge rectifier. When one or two of those diodes go bad you get AC ripple and a resulting whine. Many refurbishers do not replace the bridge rectifiers.
Noise in the audio system is common with perfectly good alts.
I suspect there is a large filter capacitor somewhere that has come loose or gone bad and needs replacement.
I suspect there is a large filter capacitor somewhere that has come loose or gone bad and needs replacement.
I've got two cars with perfectly happy, whining Denso alternators and one non-whining Bosch alternator that needs new bearings - at 67k miles!
Originally Posted By: asand1
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
My understanding of diodes is either they are good or bad in most cases. If anyone can predict or divine impending diode failure, they are gods of electricity. Many charging system testers do a diode check or they are assumed good if the alternator output equals designed output specs.
There are six diodes in a bridge rectifier. When one or two of those diodes go bad you get AC ripple and a resulting whine. Many refurbishers do not replace the bridge rectifiers.
They don't replace them, they test them and then check that output is as rated before shipping. It won't reach rated output with bad diodes. Most rebuilders test benches have a scope that shows the current waves through all three diode sets.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
My understanding of diodes is either they are good or bad in most cases. If anyone can predict or divine impending diode failure, they are gods of electricity. Many charging system testers do a diode check or they are assumed good if the alternator output equals designed output specs.
There are six diodes in a bridge rectifier. When one or two of those diodes go bad you get AC ripple and a resulting whine. Many refurbishers do not replace the bridge rectifiers.
They don't replace them, they test them and then check that output is as rated before shipping. It won't reach rated output with bad diodes. Most rebuilders test benches have a scope that shows the current waves through all three diode sets.
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
I've got two cars with perfectly happy, whining Denso alternators...
That's my Camry's alt you're hearing....I do tend to drown it out with revs though...
I've got two cars with perfectly happy, whining Denso alternators...
That's my Camry's alt you're hearing....I do tend to drown it out with revs though...
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Originally Posted By: kacey25
You know what, youre right. A mech friend of mine (who is in another city but hes very good with cars) told me to start the car, and I will see two plugs to my altnerator, a black one and a green one. Can see here, h
you havent really discovered anything.
It could still be belt/load related.
When you unplug the alternator it runs off the battery. so there is LESS load on the engine.
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Not sure how the car can still run with the alt unplugged but i was surprised. Im guessing the extra strain gets redirected to the engine.
Honestly your car knowledge seems very limited you seem to have no idea how the whole electrical system works... at all...
it might just be best to take it to 1 guy pay him to fix the problem... if indeed it is an actual issue.
It could be something as simple as a bad ground for speaker whine.
If its physical under the hood whine, it could be a belt,pulley, or alternator.
When you have an 8 year old car chasing down noises will bankrupt you. Its usually best to ignore them unless they sound bad.
You know what, youre right. A mech friend of mine (who is in another city but hes very good with cars) told me to start the car, and I will see two plugs to my altnerator, a black one and a green one. Can see here, h
you havent really discovered anything.
It could still be belt/load related.
When you unplug the alternator it runs off the battery. so there is LESS load on the engine.
Quote:
Not sure how the car can still run with the alt unplugged but i was surprised. Im guessing the extra strain gets redirected to the engine.
Honestly your car knowledge seems very limited you seem to have no idea how the whole electrical system works... at all...
it might just be best to take it to 1 guy pay him to fix the problem... if indeed it is an actual issue.
It could be something as simple as a bad ground for speaker whine.
If its physical under the hood whine, it could be a belt,pulley, or alternator.
When you have an 8 year old car chasing down noises will bankrupt you. Its usually best to ignore them unless they sound bad.
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