What would clean turbo oil feed lines?

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There is an inherent problem with GM 1.4 Turbo engines in that the turbo oil feed line is routed very close to the exhaust manifold. Oil gets cooked after so many miles. Frequent oil changes seem to help but I was wondering is there any oil additive, as a preventive measure, that would maybe help with some of the hardened deposits from this feed line.
 
To run as a 5 minute flush?
Or, are you looking to run something in your oil always?? Fill and forget!

So, maybe the Dexos that you're using isn't good enough. This is why some use Amsoil, HPL, Redline, RoyalPurple, RLI, Torco, MPT, Synmax.........

If you trust either GM, OLM, owners manual's recommendations, or Dexos, then you get what you get.

Wrap the line? Wasn't that GM's job? Send the turbo/manifold/piles for some Swaintech coatings. The question ... is the failure studied enough to determine a specific cause, or are 1.4T just guessing and blaming GM?

Did GM update this line? Might want to peruse bulletins and see if there is any improvement.

If you've adapted better oil change intervals, have any/all updated parts, and already use the best oil and filter that you can budget, running with full oil level checked often, and a well maintained full cooling system, might want to give it some Lubegard Biotech, STP Synthetic, HPL, AutoRx....


Might even want to consider a pint of Rislone or MMO but, if using Dexos1 5w30, might need to use a 5w40 to maintain an acceptable running viscosity.
 
To run as a 5 minute flush?
Or, are you looking to run something in your oil always?? Fill and forget!

So, maybe the Dexos that you're using isn't good enough. This is why some use Amsoil, HPL, Redline, RoyalPurple, RLI, Torco, MPT, Synmax.........

If you trust either GM, OLM, owners manual's recommendations, or Dexos, then you get what you get.

Wrap the line? Wasn't that GM's job? Send the turbo/manifold/piles for some Swaintech coatings. The question ... is the failure studied enough to determine a specific cause, or are 1.4T just guessing and blaming GM?

Did GM update this line? Might want to peruse bulletins and see if there is any improvement.

If you've adapted better oil change intervals, have any/all updated parts, and already use the best oil and filter that you can budget, running with full oil level checked often, and a well maintained full cooling system, might want to give it some Lubegard Biotech, STP Synthetic, HPL, AutoRx....


Might even want to consider a pint of Rislone or MMO but, if using Dexos1 5w30, might need to use a 5w40 to maintain an acceptable running viscosity.
I know Dorman makes a replacement part that is heat wrapped.
 
I would say replacing them would be a guaranteed fix after that try some heavy amount of an ester base stock oil blend.
 
Are these Ester oils dexos?
Some may be. Some are, technically. You do know dexos is simply a recommendation by GM, correct? And that GM recommends dexos because they collect a royalty check from every quart sold with a dexos logo on it, correct? And that GM can’t invalidate your warranty just because you used an oil that’s not dexos “certified”? Dexos is far from the pinnacle of oil requirements, btw.
 
I have heard turbo cars in general are susceptible to oil coking in the turbo feed lines and turbo center section. The usual advice is to use a good synthetic oil and change on time. If it was mine, I would run M1 EP or Similar and not worry.

If it is a used car, replace the lines and run full synthetic. Then you know you're safe.
 
I have heard turbo cars in general are susceptible to oil coking in the turbo feed lines and turbo center section. The usual advice is to use a good synthetic oil and change on time. If it was mine, I would run M1 EP or Similar and not worry.

If it is a used car, replace the lines and run full synthetic. Then you know you're safe.
I usually use castrol black.
 
I have heard turbo cars in general are susceptible to oil coking in the turbo feed lines and turbo center section. The usual advice is to use a good synthetic oil and change on time. If it was mine, I would run M1 EP or Similar and not worry.

If it is a used car, replace the lines and run full synthetic. Then you know you're safe.
Running a Turbo Timer is the aftermarket way to do it. I recommend APEXi brand. If you have it glowing like my dad on his 944 Turbo, we always drove it around for about 10 minutes to cool off. I would recommend always doing a cool down as it gets HOT 🔥. I'm in for Redline,HPL,Amsoil,etc that has some decent Ester content. A higher hths and a five thousand mile oci sounds good too.
 
You want to remove anything asap or it can lead to a turbo failure. Then run one of the cleaning oils.


'Suitable for all gasoline and diesel engines with and without diesel particulate filter (DPF). Tested safe with catalytic converters and turbochargers. Motor cleaning before an oil change. 500 ml sufficient for up to 5 L oil volume. Improves hydraulic function e.g. VVT, VANOS and other oil actuated switches and valves. Can be safely used in vehicles with timing belt running in oil.

Cleans the engine from the inside. Removes deposits from lubrication holes, oil screens, piston ring zone, etc. Reduces engine noise and oil consumption. Improves compression. Increases vehicle’s reliability. Allows the fresh oil to develop its full performance after an oil change'.

If you are not 'into' flushes you could use the Rislone High Mileage Engine treatment up to your next oil change then use a cleaning oil.
 
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You want to remove anything asap or it can lead to a turbo failure. Then run one of the cleaning oils.


'Suitable for all gasoline and diesel engines with and without diesel particulate filter (DPF). Tested safe with catalytic converters and turbochargers. Motor cleaning before an oil change. 500 ml sufficient for up to 5 L oil volume. Improves hydraulic function e.g. VVT, VANOS and other oil actuated switches and valves. Can be safely used in vehicles with timing belt running in oil.

Cleans the engine from the inside. Removes deposits from lubrication holes, oil screens, piston ring zone, etc. Reduces engine noise and oil consumption. Improves compression. Increases vehicle’s reliability. Allows the fresh oil to develop its full performance after an oil change'.

If you are not 'into' flushes you could use the Rislone High Mileage Engine treatment up to your next oil change then use a cleaning oil.
If OP thinks a cam sensor failed because he used a non-dexos oil, there’s no way in 🔥 that he’s going to use an additive/flush that’s neither approved nor certified by anyone.
 
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