What type of oil with your bypass system

[rmattingley]

I am currently running amsoil 5w-30 in my 5.3 chevey with a motorguard
I am also using mobile 1 atf with a motorguard on my tranny.

I am getting ready to drop the amsiol and I was wondering what the rest of you are using in your bypass rigs.

 

[deepsquat]

I am running the same on my tranny...as for the engine ...I have found that what Ralph has said to be true...you don't need synthetic with a TP bypass...I ahve gone over 40,000 miles with just plain dino oil...and had stellat reports...just as good as my Mobil 1 reports...though I just bought a Corvette and will install a bypass...on that I may run Mobile 1 ..being that it is a hot running engine..then again I am going to add a oil temp gauge so I can track the heat ...syn may not be ness...

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Is the AMSOIL used up? Additives depleted? Well out of viscosity range? Or are you just in a "have to change" mood?

For deepsquat: After GM started using Mobil 1 in Covettes to solve an engineering problem, they found it ran cool enough that they could remove the oil cooler. Guess that probably saved them more than the additional cost of OEM synthetic engine oil.

 

[johnd]

Actually, I think the Mobil 1 was to address an oit temperature problem and was used because it was nore heat tolerant. In a Corvette, oil temps run pretty high but the Mobil 1 is up to it. In my car I have an oil to water cooler that was made for the police car edition of the Camero. With that and a bypass, I finally realized that synthetic oil just wasn't necessary in my application.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by **** in Falls Church:
Is the AMSOIL used up? Additives depleted? Well out of viscosity range? Or are you just in a "have to change" mood?

For deepsquat: After GM started using Mobil 1 in Covettes to solve an engineering problem, they found it ran cool enough that they could remove the oil cooler. Guess that probably saved them more than the additional cost of OEM synthetic engine oil.

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A little birdie told me that GM gets the OEM M1 at no cost in exchange for putting the M1 name on the oil fill cap.

 

[rmattingley]

just in the mood, Ive got about 15k on the oil and I am out of amsoil.

I change my tp roll every 1500 to 2000 miles. I do alot of pulling and around town driving with it. Along with that alot of idling.

I should just take a sample and send it off for testing.

 

[RalphPWood]

I don't claim to be an expert on oil. It seems to me it is better to fix the oil temperature problem rather than using an oil that cam take more oil temperature. If the oil is too hot it is rough on seals. I have two customers with almost identical pickups. The one that uses Quaker State non synthetic oil has no oxidation problems. The one that uses Mobil 1 has oxidation problems. It would seem that the Quaker State can handle more temperature until you look a little closer. The one that uses the Quaker State has a trailer towing package with a large oil cooler. We had to drain the Mobil 1 because it was getting too thick and had a high oxidation content. These are GM 350 CID engines operating in Dallas Texas traffic. At one time when you bought a new Mercedes it had a factory fill of re refined oil. When refined right oil gets better every time it is refined.
A guy in California with a Frantz oil cleaner hasn't drained the oil in his Camaro for about 350,000 miles. He says he is going to try synthetic oil. It seems to me he is doing fine with the conventional oil. If they don't put a cooling system on an engine that can keep the oil cool you can be sure the transmission is also running too hot. A decent cooling system is not just for pulling trailers.

Ralph

 

[johnd]

I think Ralph and I are on the same wavelength on this one. I have an oil cooler and I run a bypass filter and Havoline 10w30. I think this is a very good combination for my application.

 

[rmattingley]

My old man, swore by havoline oil, and up to about 6 years ago, it was the only thing I used. Ive used mobile1 in all my vehicals except my new pickup, which I filled with amsoil. It always seemed to me that the motors ran a little quieter with t he havoline, but It could just be me.

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

Back to the original question, which oil is best for a bypass system? Could the answer be an oil that is very shear stable, no VI and does not evaporate much or get thicker with age. That sounds like we're talking a good quality conventional oil or a synthetic, if you want to just change the element and add makeup oil. I did it for 32 years with no oil changes, just changed the tp and added makeup oil. The new owner is now up to 43 years, no oil change. I think it's possible that the tp filter, no oil change works. That old Falcon can't possibly run as clean as a modern engine, which means that newer engines should handle such a scheme even better, especially with modern oils available today. So what oil do you think would be most shear stable, no VI's and does not evaporate away?

 

[carock]

Use the best synthetic you can buy if you are going to run a TP filter and not change the oil. You spent the money on the filter, you obviously care about your car, and you won't be using much oil. Why not use the best? One thing I read in an old Army test, oils with the least detergent will filter better. There is an argument that says a new engine treated with a good bypass filter would be best served using nondetergent oils.

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

quote:

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There is an argument that says a new engine treated with a good bypass filter would be best served using nondetergent oils.

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Would the base oil in a ND oil be of lower quality that the average detergent oil?

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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Use the best synthetic you can buy if you are going to run a TP filter and not change the oil. You spent the money on the filter, you obviously care about your car, and you won't be using much oil. Why not use the best?

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The only problem with using synths is cost. You get the same perpetual sump that you do with dino ..but you're swapping out good oil to swap the filter ..which doesn't last as long as the oil. It makes sense with dino $$-wise.

You're not into the mature sump until you've added the content of the sump in make up oil for filter changes. On a 5 quart sump, assuming 3k filter changes and 1 quart per change, you're looking at 15k and 5 quarts of synthetic oil. Obviously not too much of a savings over getting 10k-15k out of a 5 quart sump with a synth. Now you do get the added high level of filtration and all of its benefits ..but you're doubling your costs.

For the dedicated 3k/3m OCI type, you can reduce your annual costs to about $7-$8. That sensibility somewhat erodes if you use synths since, outside of severe conditions or expensive habits, you're not a 3k/3m type. You then have to get more of your perceived value out of the superior filtration.

 

[porcupine73]

I'm not completely sure this comment is relevant, but would you consider the mpg difference (indeed if any) between the oils in the cost calculation? I run Amsoil HDD 5W30 with my bypass setup. Not sure if it's cost effective; but it is fun. --Louis

 

[Nebraskan]

quote:

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Originally posted by porcupine73:
I'm not completely sure this comment is relevant, but would you consider the mpg difference (indeed if any) between the oils in the cost calculation? I run Amsoil HDD 5W30 with my bypass setup. Not sure if it's cost effective; but it is fun. --Louis

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I think the comment is completely relevant! I run synthetic in my 1996 Buick PA, 1993 Supercharged PA, and my 1993 Chevy Lumina. I wouldn't put in Dino oil if it was free!!

Reason? I get about 3 miles per gallon extra on synthetic oil over mineral oils. I get better heat transfer and better engine protection with synthetics (opinion), but the MPG is fact. Been there and done that.

 

[Nebraskan]

I HATE the fact that the check mark on email replies is turned off by default. I wish it were on by default and you could then turn it off. By the time I realized I had not checked it, it's too late and I cannot stop and add the check or flood protection takes over.

Vern

 

[Nebraskan]

Did it again!!

 

[Holson]

I run Delvac 5W40 in my Dodge Cummins, Polaris Ranger and a Honda cycle. Ran Amsoil in a prior Ford Powerstroke, in my Harley and in my wife's Voyager and like both oils. I believe synthetics are better but with these filters running, our engines will run seemingly forever with either. Just make yourself happy. Harry

 

[DracoFelis]

quote:

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The only problem with using synths is cost. You get the same perpetual sump that you do with dino ..but you're swapping out good oil to swap the filter ..which doesn't last as long as the oil. It makes sense with dino $$-wise.

You're not into the mature sump until you've added the content of the sump in make up oil for filter changes. On a 5 quart sump, assuming 3k filter changes and 1 quart per change, you're looking at 15k and 5 quarts of synthetic oil. Obviously not too much of a savings over getting 10k-15k out of a 5 quart sump with a synth.

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IMHO that's probably the main advantage of an "Oil Guard" bypass, over a TP bypass. While a TP system has "cheap" filters, it ends up costing you in "make up oil", due to the frequent filter changes that TP systems require. Of course, if you want extra long OCI's, you want to lose some oil so that you can "refresh" the oil with new oil. But you probably don't need to "refresh" the oil as often as the TP filters make you do it.

OTOH the OG filters are way over price IMHO (yes, I have the OG system on my cars), but those filters last a lot longer (even the smallest OG size, which is the type on my cars, seems to be good for 10k-15k on a single filter). As a result, the OG bypass may actually be cheaper to use then a TP filter (even with the high OG filter cost), if/when you factor in the cost of the (synthetic) oil that TP systems "waste" by frequent filter changes.

BTW: To answer the OP's question, I personally run M1 5w30 with my cars (and my OG bypass). Don't know if it's the best oil for this, but it seems to work for me. And FWIW I just started adding a little VSOT to the mix, and the cars seem even happier (then with just the M1 and the filters)...

 

[rmattingley]

Ok, I was changing out my roll of tp the other day, and I had some blue shop towels sitting there. I noticed the center hole was the same as the tp. Which would give a better filtering medium. Scott 1000 tp or role of blue shop towel. I can't remember the brand on the shop towel, but its like the center pull ones.