What type anti-seize for spark plugs?

[Loobed]

What type anti-seize should I use for installing spark plugs in aluminum heads? I have the copper type and the silver type. Does one work better than the other? Will one run into the spark gap and cause a misfire, or will it cause a hot spot and preignition? thanks

 

[Smokefan1977]

Silver!! Copper and Alum don't get along

 

[mechtech2]

Only use a light trace amount. Don't gob it on the threads.Normal silver is safe.

 

[Radman]

I haven't seen silver anti-seize before. Nickel is probably the most common for what you want to do.

 

[wirelessF]

What plugs are you installing? The more expensive NGK plugs don't need anti-seize.

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: Radman

I haven't seen silver anti-seize before. Nickel is probably the most common for what you want to do.

Silver color. I don't know what is in it. It is the normal cheapo permatex type anti-seize compound.

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: wirelessF

What plugs are you installing? The more expensive NGK plugs don't need anti-seize.

Autolight double platinum

 

[Chris Meutsch]

I used copper on my Civic, changed those plugs three times total, never had an issue.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Originally Posted By: wirelessF

What plugs are you installing? The more expensive NGK plugs don't need anti-seize.

It is is you want to be able to remove the plugs someday and leave the aluminum threads in the head.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: Loobed

Silver color. I don't know what is in it.

This is typically graphite, aluminum & copper. I prefer nickel-based antiseize for glow plugs in diesels, but the cheapo graphite/Al/Cu stuff works fine for spark plugs. Just use a tiny bit (small spot ~5mm diameter and very thin) and roll it into the threads before installing it in the head. A little dab'll do ya!

Originally Posted By: wirelessF

The more expensive NGK plugs don't need anti-seize.

I've never met a threaded fastener that didn't benefit from an appropriate application of anti-seize with appropriately reduced fastening torque. Do you need it? Probably not. Will it make your life easier down the road? Absolutely.

 

[doitmyself]

This question never seems to get a clear answer. Permatex has the three basic types at their website: gray/silver (1600F), copper (1800f) and Nickel (2400F). The silver PDS says its good for plugs. The copper says its good for plugs in aluminum head engines. I just got off the phone with a Permatex "tech.", and he also did not give a clear answer. He stated that basically any of them would work o.k.. When asked which was best or why the copper specifically stated use in aluminum heads, his answer was that the copper one is "better" because of its higher heat range AND better conductivity. When asked about galvanic corrosion between copper and aluminum, he said that there is some concern about this BUT it is not a concern in this application. I stated that I didn't think engine heads approached 1600F and he said they did. WHAT"S THE TRUTH HERE> He then said the nickel antiseize is also an excellent choice and that is has good/better conductivity than the gray/silver. I have always used the gray/silver product, VERY minimal amount, in both iron and aluminum heads with no "apparent" problems. Am I doing something wrong? Should we use the copper? Or, even the nickel? I would like to hear other opinions and real world experience.

 

[LoneRanger]

I'm more interested in how to calculate how much to reduce OE torque spec when using anti-sieze. Say OE spec is 12 lb-ft. If anti-seize is used, what should the torque ratchet be set to?

 

[beast3300]

flamesuit on/ No anti-seize needed. flamesuit off/

 

[ronbo]

I have anti-seize and it's great BUT messy. I prefer to use di-electric grease which is clear. Also use on boot to put on spark plugs. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

 

[hisilver]

Originally Posted By: LoneRanger

I'm more interested in how to calculate how much to reduce OE torque spec when using anti-sieze. Say OE spec is 12 lb-ft. If anti-seize is used, what should the torque ratchet be set to?

I have heard reduce the torque by 15 percent.

 

[Kiwi_ME]

Originally Posted By: ronbo

...I prefer to use di-electric grease which is clear...

Max temp for that product is 400F. I'd guess those threads see more than that.

 

[Trav]

Reducing torque values by 20% is the common rule of thumb.

 

[Foch]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Reducing torque values by 20% is the common rule of thumb.

I've heard this before but don't beleive it. I mean, the torque wrench dosn't know if the plug has anti-sieze on it. The torque wrench will 'click' at say 20 ft.lbs, with anti-sieze or not. That value dosn't change. Maybe I'm crazy, but this is what logic tells me.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: beast3300

flamesuit on/ No anti-seize needed. flamesuit off/

tend to agree now. I used to use anti-seize, but after some interesting conversations with Ford Field Service Engineers and SVT Powertrain Engineers I only use it where it specifically stats so in an FSM or TSB.

 

[Errtt]

Originally Posted By: Foch

Originally Posted By: Trav

Reducing torque values by 20% is the common rule of thumb.

I've heard this before but don't beleive it. I mean, the torque wrench dosn't know if the plug has anti-sieze on it. The torque wrench will 'click' at say 20 ft.lbs, with anti-sieze or not. That value dosn't change. Maybe I'm crazy, but this is what logic tells me.

Of course the torque wrench doesn't know - the user knows so its up to the user to reduce the torque wrench setting