What the highest flow 'regular' oil filter

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Jun 1, 2023
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Hey all, new here. I am wondering what off the shelf oil filter has the highest flow rate. My use case is to have as good flow as possible but not severe enough to try and find a dedicated racing filter. Oil will be changed seasonally, and the vehicle will only be used for racing events, so hard use but not many miles. Amsoil OE 5w20.

I have an STP XL, but was eyeing getting a Fram Ultra, a Purolator One, or I have heard good things about the WIX stuff, but I'm open to anything, just want best flow, and finding it hard to find numbers for anything.

Hope that's enough info to go on, and thanks in advance.
 
I am wondering what off the shelf oil filter has the highest flow rate. Oil will be changed seasonally, and the vehicle will only be used for racing events, so hard use but not many miles. Amsoil OE 5w20.
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No info on the vehicle, engine, etc.

Oh, and by the way, good luck with that oil for racing applications. (y)
 
Probably going to get me flamed but if memory serves correctly the typical oil filter has a flow rate of about 30 litres per min.

The average vehicles oil pump only has a flow rate of 12-14 litres per min.

Given this there shouldn't be any realistic situation where an oil filter has a noticeable effect on flow rate besides consistent sub-zero temps. In situations where flow rate is an issue (high end racing) the oil filter is typically bypassed, with the motors being rebuilt after each race.
 
Oil pumps are positive displacement, they will flow the same amount of oil per revolution regardless, except when the pump is in bypass in overpressure conditions either at high revs or when the oil is a very high viscosity(usually because it's cold), the oil system will be designed to take into account that the oil filter will causes some pressure drop which will be effectively limited by the oil filter bypass, most of the restriction in the oil system still comes from pumping the oil into the bearings rather than from the oil filter, the restriction of the filter is nothing to worry about and almost nobody is going to waste the money it takes to have proper independent testing done to compare the restrictiveness of every oil filter in existence and most manufacturers aren't going to be forthcoming with such information.
 
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.

So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
 
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.

So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
I would suggest a full synthetic racing oil for you. Both HPL and Amsoil are BITOG sponsors.
 
So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
Maybe don't run a stock 20 year old engine close to redline?
 
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.

So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
Personally I would first look at an air-to- oil cooler and then determine if the oil pan requires baffling to prevent starvation. The oil filter should be at the bottom of your list.
 
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.

So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
Thank you for the information. @RDY4WAR could definitively help you with some good advice here. I'm sure he'll reply as soon as he has some time available.
 
So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.
So if it is basically stock, why is flow your primary concern again?
 
Hey guys, including the face palm guy, just trying to learn. I appreciate those who responded with some info.

So, it's a V6 mustang, the 3.8L in a 2002 and is basically stock. While the motor itself is not high performance, my concern is that it will be close to redline and under load and I'm just trying to reduce the chance of oiling issues. I had a previous motor in a Subaru spin a bearing most likely due to oiling issues, doing the same type of event. So I guess I'm a little 'gun shy' and just trying to reduce possible failure points. Sorry if it upset anyone, was not my intent.

What kind of racing are you doing? I'd use a K&N HP-2009 for the filter. Any synthetic media filter will do well though, the stock pump isn't moving enough oil to really matter. The oil choice is what I would focus on.

Amsoil OE 5W-20 (and any other API rated oil) is going to be lackluster for any racing use as it leaves a lot to be desired in terms of friction reduction, shear stability, and thermal stability. API oils are restricted on anti-wear and friction modifier additive content due to emissions requirements. They're also limited on base oil interchange due to the way in which API certifications are conducted. Amsoil had to dumb down their OE line, hurt the oil's performance, in order to gain an API rating for it.

The Noack for OE 5W-20 is 8.6% which isn't terrible but not great either, especially for racing use that will see a lot of heat. In that 450-500°F environment around the 2nd and top ring, you want to limit oil evaporation as much as possible. This is even more important to an older engine where the hone is likely more worn down and thus can't hold the oil on the cylinder walls as well. For the same reason of the hone likely being worn a bit, the rings likely spend more time in boundary and mixed lubrication regimes with less oil retention on the walls, and thus an oil with more friction reducing additive will be beneficial as they help in those regimes. It's also likely that there's some carbon deposits and coking around those rings as well which could benefit from an oil that has a good bit of ester with high solubility. Certain esters can clean up those deposits which improves/restores ring seal, reducing blow-by and increasing power. Esters also improve the volatility and thermal and shear stability of the oil which all benefits racing use.

Here's a comparison of the elemental analysis of different oils that could meet your needs alongside Amsoil OE. (based on best available, newest analysis)

Ams OE vs Ams Sig vs HPL PCMO vs HPL BAS vs RL HP vs Dr XP.jpeg


If it was mine, I would drain 1 quart of the Amsoil OE and add in 1 quart of High Performance Lubricants SAE 30 Engine Cleaner. It's ester based with a full DI, AW, and FM additive package that will blend right in with the OE oil, add solubility to clean well, and improve volatility and thermal stability. Run that combination the rest of this season.

After that, I think you'd be a perfect candidate for the High Performance Lubricants Bad Ass Racing (HPL BAS) 5W-20. You get a load of friction modifier with a standard DI pack that can withstand an entire season on one oil change. Paired with the K&N HP-2009 filter, you'd be good to go.
 
Maybe don't run a stock 20 year old engine close to redline?

A lot of entry level racing classes require stock engines. There's hundreds of 20-40 year old stock engines that get spun to red line every weekend. My '93 Camaro is a stock long block that gets spun to 6800 rpm on 0W-12 oil. This is nothing unordinary.

Personally I would first look at an air-to- oil cooler and then determine if the oil pan requires baffling to prevent starvation. The oil filter should be at the bottom of your list.

For him, I think an oil cooler wouldn't be of much benefit. I would use a better 20 grade oil and let it get nice and hot. Something like HPL PCMO 10W-20, BAS 5W-20, or No VII Euro 5W-20 at 280-300°F wouldn't worry me at all. That stock 3.8L isn't making enough bearing load for it to matter. Hot oil works better and makes more power.
 
Generally speaking, the largest filter that fits the engine will flow more.
Racing filters flow a lot but aren't usually "off the shelf" items.
The nylon center tube on SuperTech filters flow better that 'holes' or 'louvers'.

My 2¢
 
A lot of entry level racing classes require stock engines. There's hundreds of 20-40 year old stock engines that get spun to red line every weekend. My '93 Camaro is a stock long block that gets spun to 6800 rpm on 0W-12 oil. This is nothing unordinary.



For him, I think an oil cooler wouldn't be of much benefit. I would use a better 20 grade oil and let it get nice and hot. Something like HPL PCMO 10W-20, BAS 5W-20, or No VII Euro 5W-20 at 280-300°F wouldn't worry me at all. That stock 3.8L isn't making enough bearing load for it to matter. Hot oil works better and makes more power.
What about a baffled oil pan?
 
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