My plan for my 6 speed in my Ford PSD is Amsoil ATF and a Magnefine filter.
What should I service this 10L80 at?
- Thread starter redhat
- Start date
I don't know how it is in truck or GMs, but in my GT, D mode skips multiple gears and acts like a 5-6 speed. In S(port), it goes through all gears...and much more fun!
Before I bought the car, it had a solenoid go out at around 10k so it had a fluid change. Last year, I took it in because of initial jerks when going into R and then what seems to be a too long of o pause when going into D. Had the valve body replaced (another fluid change) and was told to drive for a while to let it learn. Still doing it. Will take it back soon.
On the mustang6g forum, a tuner, Wengerd, seems to do magical things and TRANSforms (pun intended
) with no issues.
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At least in the trucks, Tow/Haul makes them not skip at all. All 10 up, all 10 down.I don't know how it is in truck or GMs, but in my GT, D mode skips multiple gears and acts like a 5-6 speed. In S(port), it goes through all gears...and much more fun!
Before I bought the car, it had a solenoid go out at around 10k so it had a fluid change. Last year, I took it in because of initial jerks when going into R and then what seems to be a too long of o pause when going into D. Had the valve body replaced (another fluid change) and was told to drive for a while to let it learn. Still doing it. Will take it back soon.
On the mustang6g forum, a tuner, Wengerd, seems to do magical things and TRANSforms (pun intended
Over on the Ranger board we're finding that Lubegard Platinum is tending to keep the valve bodies freed up. Never been a huge fan of additives, but this one in this situation seems to be the trick. (At least for the valve bodies)
A joint venture between GM & Ford.....Ford doing the bulk of the engineering.
Got it. Thanks!
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
I would drop the pan and change the filter at 50k. Then spill and fills every 50k after that. It’s a PITA to get the trans pan down on these. You have to drop the Y pipe from each manifold to get enough clearance to get the pan out. For refilling be prepared to burn yourself twice.
Could you explain why, exactly?
I have the same tranny on my ‘22 Sierra. The filter is rather large. The dealer and transmission shops recommend service at 45K intervals for Severe Service and nothing for Normal Service. I had the dealer do a flush the first go-round at 50K. Price, $425. The next two intervals, I did a pan siphon and refill at 75K and 100K. Price, $22 (4 qts ULV from Rock Auto + tax and shipping). I used to run a two factories that made transmissions, so know how to do it. Note that the fluid goes dark quickly on these transmissions. Dealer wants $675 for full service filter and fluid change.
Me 9k miles under warranty Ford and dealer put a new trans. in 2022 MACH 1 10R80. Car went in morning of Nov. 19 2024 back to me Feb. 10 2025 at 19:00
Mine was stock, No engine or transmission upgrades or changes was so bad! Ford after multiple times at the dealers and a lot my ownership, my car was not in my hands or at dealers, etc. or not functioning correctly. They finally gave in and put a new one in after saying they would just rebuild with the same known faulty parts.
It feels like I have had to pay multiple times for my car.
CHECK ACCURACY OF YOUR REPAIR AND DEALER PAPERWORK! My dealers mostly left problems off and wrongly documented my car’s problems. Do not assume everything will be ok because it is new and still under warranty. You will need correct documentation in the future!
Mine also had a lot of electrical problems, but that is slowed down.
I love the car when it works properly. It’s just that there has been such a short period of my ownership!
From the SIU/southern Illinois University, FLYING WRENCH, and others videos, forums, etc. It seems some of the big problems are the transmission using different materials in the wrong application/places cause the transmission to eat itself and fill the valve body, filters, magnets, with aluminum, etc.
Steel is harder than aluminum and wears the aluminum out fast.
It seems logical to me to change the fluid and filters often.
Mine was stock, No engine or transmission upgrades or changes was so bad! Ford after multiple times at the dealers and a lot my ownership, my car was not in my hands or at dealers, etc. or not functioning correctly. They finally gave in and put a new one in after saying they would just rebuild with the same known faulty parts.
It feels like I have had to pay multiple times for my car.
CHECK ACCURACY OF YOUR REPAIR AND DEALER PAPERWORK! My dealers mostly left problems off and wrongly documented my car’s problems. Do not assume everything will be ok because it is new and still under warranty. You will need correct documentation in the future!
Mine also had a lot of electrical problems, but that is slowed down.
I love the car when it works properly. It’s just that there has been such a short period of my ownership!
From the SIU/southern Illinois University, FLYING WRENCH, and others videos, forums, etc. It seems some of the big problems are the transmission using different materials in the wrong application/places cause the transmission to eat itself and fill the valve body, filters, magnets, with aluminum, etc.
Steel is harder than aluminum and wears the aluminum out fast.
It seems logical to me to change the fluid and filters often.
- CDF Drum. In earlier versions of the 10R80, a poorly designed bushing inside the CDF Drum slides out of position, allowing a Teflon seal to fail, resulting in pressure loss.
- Outer Shell Problems. The 10R80’s outer shells are made of aluminum, which is softer than the steel used to make the transmission’s various clutches. Sometimes these clutches stick into the divots in the outer shell, causing weird shifts.
- Valve Body. Valve bodies are what control the physical shifting in an automatic transmission. But if too much fine metallic contamination collects in the valve body, they behave out of spec. Which is why SIU always recommends replacing valve bodies anytime a 10R transmission is rebuilt.
- (In the 10R80, planetary gear sets and the one-way clutch are vital for maintaining smooth gear shifts and appropriate gear ratios. Deficiencies in these components can lead to improper shifting or transmission failures. A faulty one-way clutch might cause skipping of gears or failure to hold power in specific gears.
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It was recommended by GM on all their Hydramatic transmissions. Why fill anything will fresh oil and a used filter. Unless it is the non service transmissions and in that case you can't.
God, don't we all wish it was a ZF Design/built.
How did you like the PPE Pan? It looks like a pretty nice piece.
It was great. Not much else to say about it. Fit well, dropped temps a few deg, and the drain plug makes fluid changes a breeze. The 10R80 shallow pan holds something like 3/4 of a quart more, which wasn't a huge deal for me, just a head scratcher when I put in exactly the amount I took out and the dipstick reading was way off.
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Service it ASAP. Change the fluid now. And do it every 30k miles or sooner.
The ford 10 speeds and GM 10 speeds are almost identical. There are a few differences, but mainly it’s the tuning. A lot of parts are very very similar, and a lot of parts are actually identical, especially on the 80 series ones.
They both have valve body issues, due to the use of poorly made aluminum valve bodies. CDF drum is also a problem, again because of poorly made aluminum that isn’t hardened properly in my opinion. They wear too easy. I work at a ford dealer, and we go through tons of valve bodies, because they simply just wear out, and that causes fluid pressure loss in the valve body, which leads to burnt clutches as well. JL3Z-7A100-C is the ford part number for the 10r80 Valvebody. It’s expensive. PC3Z-7B177-A for the Reaction shell (CDF). We sell these like hotcakes. I’ve seen 10r80’s with worn valvebodies with only 15k miles on it on a customers F150. It’s because the material is too soft and wear can happen so easily, and also some units are just destined to fail early because of quality control issues. From what I can tell, they use aluminum that isn’t properly hardened, or it’s just a poor quality aluminum. I’m sure the story is same with GM, it’s not just a ford issue.
There are now some aftermarket companies making better parts for these 10 speeds. Gotta love aftermarket trans parts for this reason.
Frequent fluid changes are crucial in these 10 speeds, to remove any particles that can cause wear on these aluminum parts. Do not do long drain intervals even with boutique fluids, because any wear metal in the fluid will eventually eat away the valvebody bores. Don’t do it.
The ford 10 speeds and GM 10 speeds are almost identical. There are a few differences, but mainly it’s the tuning. A lot of parts are very very similar, and a lot of parts are actually identical, especially on the 80 series ones.
They both have valve body issues, due to the use of poorly made aluminum valve bodies. CDF drum is also a problem, again because of poorly made aluminum that isn’t hardened properly in my opinion. They wear too easy. I work at a ford dealer, and we go through tons of valve bodies, because they simply just wear out, and that causes fluid pressure loss in the valve body, which leads to burnt clutches as well. JL3Z-7A100-C is the ford part number for the 10r80 Valvebody. It’s expensive. PC3Z-7B177-A for the Reaction shell (CDF). We sell these like hotcakes. I’ve seen 10r80’s with worn valvebodies with only 15k miles on it on a customers F150. It’s because the material is too soft and wear can happen so easily, and also some units are just destined to fail early because of quality control issues. From what I can tell, they use aluminum that isn’t properly hardened, or it’s just a poor quality aluminum. I’m sure the story is same with GM, it’s not just a ford issue.
There are now some aftermarket companies making better parts for these 10 speeds. Gotta love aftermarket trans parts for this reason.
Frequent fluid changes are crucial in these 10 speeds, to remove any particles that can cause wear on these aluminum parts. Do not do long drain intervals even with boutique fluids, because any wear metal in the fluid will eventually eat away the valvebody bores. Don’t do it.
A colleague of mine builds a lot of 10L80/10L90/10L1000/10R80/10R140 units....His recommendation is to install a Next Gen Drivetrain valve body kit W/ the expensive shift valves soon as possible, At $1,400 & some change it's not cheap!
No experience here but it sounds like an inline filter would be a good idea on these
