Yes agree with “Twist of the Wrist II”, if you have one book on riding technique and psychology of riding, this is it. Still don’t agree with anything about the 10w30 mantra that is being repeated.
Come on ... didn't you know that engine tribology is firmly based on how a 59K lb granite ball floats on KV20 of 1 cSt water, and that is a solid way to chose a motor oil for racing.Still don’t agree with anything about the 10w30 mantra that is being repeated.
I am sure someone has stood there pushing by hand @16,000 RPM for minutes at a time and it did just fine....... Next, have 20 drinking buddies whiz on that pedestal and I bet the rock will spin. With respect, I get the principle being shared however still don’t agree with the 10w30...Come on ... didn't you know that engine tribology is firmly based on how a 59K lb granite ball floats on KV20 of 1 cSt water, and that is a solid way to chose a motor oil for racing.
Come on ... didn't you know that engine tribology is firmly based on how a 59K lb granite ball floats on KV20 of 1 cSt water, and that is a solid way to chose a motor oil for racing.
LoL .... especially when the water supply pressure feeding the oil between the rock and it's "bearing" has to be in the 1000s of PSI. That ball of granite doesn't represent in any way how hydrodynamic lubrication happens. That 59K lb ball will still float if sitting still.I am sure someone has stood there pushing by hand @16,000 RPM for minutes at a time and it did just fine.......
i do not like any of the castrol products (with one exception)
do you have an oil sponsor? you may want to look into that.
i dont like 10w50s either...requires too much vii's
6x20min is 120min or 2hrs...at 100mph thats 200mi ... that is all the more your oil has to hold up for. but it needs to do an fantastic job for the entire 200mi.
your summer temps are barely warmer than my winter temps...last week it was 79F here. today to be a balmy 69-70F out.
Hello Zilk. Do your or your friends have an idea of what the oil temperature is in the sump. ( not the temp of the cooling water). I’m thinking that at 16,000 rpm it must be 250 F or more. Any ideas? SnagHi All.
I dont know if there is somebody on the forum with a lot of knowledge in road racing motorcycles? Im kinda new with this and shall give a little explanation of what we plan to do.
We race a Yamaha R6 out of 2008, with extended radiator for better water cooling.
This are 6 sessions, of 20 minutes every 2 hours, so it will cool down, and then go to plus minus 16000 RPM ( programmed ECU )
I think, this will ask for a special oil, and im looking for advice in this.
Mostly, we race in summer time, outside temperature +32 celcius ( 89,6 Fahrenheit )
In the manual, it states: API SG or higher, JASO MA .
When i look at the SEA diagram, the 10w-50 will go to the highest (outside) temperature, makes that the best choice?
Here in The Netherlands, this oil is common used:
Castrol Power1 Racing 4T 10W50
I hope everybody with the knowledge can give his opinion , that will help me with my choice for a great oil
View attachment 39276
Engine type: 4 cylinders, 4-stroke, Inline Displacement: 599 cc (36.6 cubic inches) Bore × stroke: 67 mm × 42.5 mm (oversquare - shortstroke) Cooling system: Water cooled Power: 124.68 HP (91.7 kW) @ 14500 rpm (Ram-air) Torque: 69.1 Nm (7.05 kg-m) @ 11000 rpm (Ram-air) Valve train: DOHC, variable Valves per cylinder: 4 Sparks per cylinder: 1 Fuel supply system: Fuel injection Ignition type: Digital CDI Funnel diameter: 38 mm Compression: 13.1:1 Engine mounting: Transverse Lubrication system: Wet sump Gear box: Manual 6-speed Clutch: Wet, slipper, cable operated Final drive: Chain Spark plug pipe type: NGK, CR9EK Motor oil: Synthetic, 20W/40
Not sure how we changed from Race Bikes to Allison Transmissions but you can judge for yourself. The first planetary gear set comes out at 6:38 minutes. This is for an Allison 1000. I didn't stick around until the end. Enjoy.Allison automatic transmissions have several planetary gear sets
Might want to use a lower viscosity ATF in that tranny if used for racing.LOL, we just kind of go where the conversation takes us around here at times don’t we?
Oil has a shelf life whether its been stored or sitting, oil tends to absorb moisture after awhile. I would dump and start fresh. For casual riding the old oil might be ok. But a fresh start would be ideal.Hi, many thanks for all replies.
One more question i ask for a friend of mine. During a back injury, he could not race for 2 years.
His Yamaha R6 was dry stored in a garage, little bit cold ( 5 celcius in two winters ) , and little bit moisture in the air.
The question is, we pulled in new Motul 300v and KN oil filter. It has only run 1 day on race track.
Should you guys change the almost unused oil because of standing still ?
Thanks alot for helping us.