Multi-Purpose 2-cycle oils: How is this possible?

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Hello all, I'm new here, so hopefully this is the right sub-forum for this topic...

I have been doing reasearch for the past month, and have one unanswered question about some of the 2-cycle oils currently available that I am hoping someone on here can help me with. It is widely believed that 2-cycle oil comes in two basic types: Air-cooled and water-cooled/outboard. The "air-cooled" type is designed for higher operating temperatures/engine RPM and contains a "low-ash" detergent. The "water-cooled/outboard" type is designed for lower operating temperatures/engine RPM, and contains an "ashless" detergent. Either type is not recommended for the other's application, due to various concerns.

Here are a couple quoted paragraphs from an article written by Robert Verret:

Additives

The two types of detergents/dispersants most commonly used in 2-stoke oil formations are Ashless and Low Ash. Medium Ash and High Ash detergents are not used in 2-stoke oils. Ashless detergents are used in low temperature applications such as TCW3 oils where the ring land temperature is held below 300 deg/f. These detergents work well in engines where an excess of cooling capacity is available and power valves are not used. Ashless detergents are manufactured form organic nitrogen compounds (Hydrazine) instead of heavy metal compounds; therefore, they produce no ash as they are burned away. This is where the name “Ashless” comes from. Oils containing this type detergent have a characteristic Ammonia odor. Low Ash type detergent/dispersants are used in most API-TC, Jasco FC and ISO GC certified 2-stroke oils. These oils are designed for air-cooled high performance engines that operate under severe load/temperature conditions. Low Ash detergents can keep the deposits to a minimum at ring land temperatures as high as 400 deg/f. These detergents are manufactured from compounds of Calcium and Magnesium (heavy metals). After these compounds (Calcium Phenate or Magnesium Phenate) do their job, they burn away, forming a heavy metal salt (ash) that is swept away during the normal combustion process. Hence, this is where the name Ash-type detergent comes from. Ash type detergents depend on the higher combustion temperatures (787 and 951 engines) to keep the resulting ash swept out. Therefore, the use of these high performance oils in outboard or other mildly tuned 2-stroke engines is not recommended. Some manufacturers are using a combination of detergent types (Ashless and Low Ash) to provide a broader range of uses for their oil. It is important to note that oil designed to meet TCW3 specs. only (Ashless) will not protect an engine requiring API-TC (Low Ash) type oil. The converse is also true. Using a Low Ash oil in an engine designed for an Ashless type oil only could result in fouled plugs and gummy combustion chambers. When 2-stroke oil is kept in its temperature limits, it provides an adequate protective film between all moving parts. When that maximum temperature is exceeded, the oil film breaks down and usually seizure occurs unless another line of defense is added to the oil mixture. These are the Antiwear agents. These Zinc compounds (Zinc Dithiophoshate) flow in with the oil and are never used unless the base oil breaks down. If the base oil breaks down, they form a protective barrier between the moving parts (usually piston skirts and cylinder walls).


What does ATP-TC and TCW3 mean?

Specifications for 2-stroke oils are developed from the design of the engine and its intended use (no surprise). Since this type engine has a wide variety of applications its no surprise that the specifications for the oils might vary also. For marine and PWC application there are 2 widely accepted standards for certifying 2-stroke engine oils. These are, by no means, not the only standards for 2-stroke engine oils. The European (ISO) and the Japanese (JASCO) standards have been developed, but these standards are not widely accepted in the country (yet). The standards most used in this country are the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMATCW3) standard and the American Petroleum Institute (API API-TC) standard. Both of these standards address the oil ability to prevent wear, keep the engine clean and biodegradability. Since these standards were written for different types of 2-stroke engines it stands to reason these standards would be different. Hence, the oils developed from these standards would also be different. The NMMA TCW3 standard was designed by the various manufacturers of outboard motors (Mercury, OMC, Yamaha etc.). These manufacturers so not utilize power valves, limit their max rpms to about 6800 and have excessive cooking capacity. They also must be able to operate at lower rpms for long periods of time without oil fouling the spark plugs. Although it’s true the performance of this type engine has increased in the last several years, the peak engine temperatures are still relatively low. The use of synthetic base oil in TCW# formulations has extended the useful range of these oils; their detergent system (Ashless) is designed for lower operating conditions.

The API API-TC standard was developed for Air-cooled, high rpm, high output 2-stroke engines operating under severe load conditions.[/b] Although this standard is no longer reviewed and updated since 1993 b the API, it still is in effect today. This standard most accurately addresses the condition Rotax and 2-stroke racing motorcycles and snowmobiles operate under. Almost all these oils are formulated with synthetic or synthetic blend base oils and all use a low ash type detergent.
(end quoted text)




Despite these "facts", there are several 2-cycle oils on the market today that claim to be "multi-purpose", and be usable in air OR water-cooled/ouboard applications.

For example:

Valvoline® Multi-Purpose 2-Cycle Engine Oil, TC-W3, A general purpose oil for air-cooled, 2-cycle engine, Provides excellent performance in lawn mowers, chain saws, string trimmers, outboard engines, jet skis, motorcycles and snow blowers. Valvoline's ashless Multi-Purpose 2-Cycle oil is specially formulated for high-revving, small two-cycle engines, air- or water-cooled engines, pre-mix or injection

Pennzoil ® Multi-Purpose 2-Cycle Premium Engine Oil, Pennzoil ® Multi-Purpose 2-Cycle Premium Engine Oil is a high-performance 2-cycle engine oil meeting or exceeding the warranty requirements of all leading manufacturers of 2-cycle products including chain saws, lawn mowers, motorcycles and string trimmers, as well as outboard engines made by: Johnson/Evinrude, Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Nissan, Force/US Marine, Mariner, Sears and all other manufacturers requiring NMMA TC-W3® oil. Recommended for pre-mix, injector systems and direct injection systems. Good for water-cooled and air-cooled 2-cycle engines recommending NMMA TC-W3® products.

Coastal 2-Cycle Engine Oil TC-W3 is recommended for use in all two-cycle engines: outboard marine engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATV's, lawn mowers, and chainsaws, and meets or exceeds the recommendations of all major two-cycle engine manufacturers requiring TC-W, TC-WII, or TC-W3. This product is licensed and approved by the NMMA as "Recertified" TC-W3.

Blue Marble High Performance 2-Cycle Oil, Blue Marble 2-Cycle Oil is an ashless, high detergent, top-quality lubricant that meets the needs of all high performance 2-cycle engines whether air or water cooled as a premix or oil injected. Meets or exceeds JASO FD, TC-W3® and ISO EGD specifications. Usage info:Recommended for use in 2-cycle engines in fuel injections or premix: ATVs, motorcycles, outboard motors, personal watercrafts, scooters, snowmobiles and other 2-cycle engines. Safe for use in all power valve systems.

Klotz Motorcycle TechniPlate® TC-W3, Pure synthetic lubricant, with an extremely high load carrying capacity for reduced engine wear. Clean Burn™, No-Smoke Technology eliminates carbon and residue build-up. Exceeds JASO FD, ISO-EGD, TC-W3, TC-W2, TC-W and API TC low ash specifications for certified warranty compliance.

As you can see, there are some reputable names there!

SO, my question is this: How can a 2-cycle oil meet both sets of requirements, when the detergent and additive needs are so different? Have they made major advances in the chemistry of the additives that they can now meet both and truly have a multi-purpose 2-cycle oil? Or is this multi-purpose stuff just marketing hype?

I have read that an "air-cooled" test is part of the TC-W3 testing procedures, but isn't enough of a test to be able to certify the oil to any of the API/ISO/JASO standards, like the Klotz and Blue Marble state above.

This all began when I discovered that the 2-cycle oil I had been using was no longer available at ANY retail outlet/dealer in my area. Subsequently I discovered a general lack of air-cooled 2-cycle oil available at a "reasonable" price point, and the search was on...


Sorry that this post was so long, but I wanted to present as many facts as possible.

Any insight would be appreciated!
 
on lawnsite I read a few lawn guys have been using strictly marine 2 cycle over the years, just because it's cheaper in the long run. I don't know if it increases wear or not. Most home owner small engines sold at big box stores are absolute [censored] in quality terms. So maybe it's a mute point.

Me personally I use supertech 2 stroke oil for small engine (non watercraft).
 
There is another oil that claims both TC-W3 and JASO FD, Mystik JT-4 Ultimate.

My observation is this: The oils that claim to meet BOTH specifications are always synthetic and from high-end manufacturers.

I'm guessing since you posted in the Motorcycle forum, that this is for a bike. I would use an oil that meets JASO FD, and if it met TC-W3 also, good, but I would NOT use an oil that ONLY met TC-W3 in a bike.
The claim of Valvoline and Pennzoil is partly true. You won't have immediate damage from using these oils, but they are less than optimum if super-long life is your goal. For John Q Public who runs their trimmer for 10 minutes, once a week, they are great.

I have tried lots of different 2 stroke oils over the years, and my summary is: JASO FD is what you need for anything other than an outboard motor.

I'm sure all these companies have chemists hard at work trying to create new mixes that have the performance of oils with light ash, in an ashless formula. It looks like we are starting to see their success.

Hope this helps,
MMM
 
Thanks to all who posted a reply!

MMM: You are correct, this is for a bike...actually I have a couple highly modified scooters. Even though the HP & displacement is still low by "big bike" standards, they both put out roughly double the factory HP, and typically operate in the 8000-9500 RPM range. I live in the country, so I run them at WOT for miles at a time.

I go through a fair amount of 2 cycle oil, and have been trying to find something that meets my needs without breaking the bank. I ended up "challenging myself" to find a good 2-cycle oil that was available locally for under $10 a quart. Thats not as easy as it may sound... There are a lot of good oils out there that meet this criteria, but unfortunately most are not sold locally. I considered buying online, but the cost for shipping doesn't make it worthwhile.

Most of the oils that I used as examples are not synthetics, but regular petroium. Additionally, I have contacted a couple of the companies that produce these oils, and have less than stellar responses...

Anyway, it bugged me how their claims of being suitable for both air and water cooled engines contradicted everything I read stating the opposite, hence my posting here. Hopefully I picked the appropriate forum to post this topic to. I didn't see one that was 2-cycle specific, so I figured that I'd give this sub-forum a try.

If anyone else has any further insight, or can suggest other avenues to pose this question to, please feel free to post.

Thanks in advance!
 
as a person that used to race 2smokes, i'm interested in what you are using.

i am also very curious about what oil ratio you are running?
or plan to run?
or are willing to run?

what jets are you able to tune with? (MJ/PJ/Needle/Slide/....)
and what brand/model of carb do you have?

steve
 
Steve: To Answer your questions

As for "what I am using", I am guessing you mean oil.

In bike #1, I used to use Redline All-Sport (full synth), but switched to Lucas Semi-Synth due to availability issues.

In bike #2, I used to use Castrol 2T Motorcycle mostly, and occasionally Pennzoil Air-Cooled. The Castrol disappeared from every retail outlet in my area, and The Pennzoil Air-cooled is available sporadically at one place, but only in 8 oz bottles. (Its my understanding that Pennzoil quit making it, and what is for sale now is whats was left of the last production run). I'm almost down to my last bottle of Castrol, and haven't decided what to switch to for this bike yet-although I am leaning towards either Honda GN2 or Yamalube 2S.

In both bikes I run a 25:1 oil ratio, due to the fact that oil migration is very high at the RPMs that I run them at. That is the least amount of oil that I feel safe running, and have considered increasing to 20:1.

Bike #1 has a simple carb - a 16mm Dellorto SHA. This carb only has ONE jet, and no needle. Tuning of the idle, low, and midrange mixture is done by changing/modifying the slide. I briefly had a Mikuni VM20 on this bike, but it was "too much carb" for my setup.

Bike #2 has a 18mm Keihin clone on it, which has a MJ, PJ, needle and slide.
 
very nice info thanks.

from my years of racing a 2smoke at or above the rpm range you are riding at, i agree that 25:1 is the lowest you should go.
if you want a tab more hp, try 16:1 but you have to jet accordingly. which on bike 1 looks like a challenge. bike 2 seems more "modern".
why would you pick yamalube 2s (the watercraft oil) over the designed for your application 2R?
i used to use 2R in my race bike (used a case of quarts) and it was pretty clean burning stuff. highly recommended.
the maxima 927, K2 and Super M are all great products. i've used the super m as well. spendy, but all seems to be nowadays.
have you looked at maxima's Scooter 2T?
klotz seems to have a good name in 2smoke as well, prices are same as maxima.
then there is amsoil with dominator and saber lines. interceptor seems for sleds. unless you run in really cold ambients. though they claim all 2smoke engines.
are you open to any of those 3 brands?
i have nothing bad to say about gn2. but why pick 2S?

i think you could use any of these with high confidence and trust. as far as availability i would buy in bulk to make sure you have it on hand.

dang i just realized i didnt ask if you were pre-mix or self oiling?

and i would also understand you probably want to use the same oil on both bikes, correct?

steve

btw yes i have used castrol 2stroke oil...though it was the original caster bean oil, green, and in a paper can. used cases of the stuff in the 70s and 80s.
 
Steve,

Thanks for the info.

As for Bike 2 being more modern... Funny thing is, Bike 1 is a 2006, and Bike 2 is a 1982! So much for "newer is better"! :) Both have "upgraded" carbs. Bike 1 had the same type carb from the factory as it does now, except it had a 12mm venturi (it has a 16mm venturi now). Bike 2 had a 12mm Mikuni on it from the factory.

With all due respect, your statement about Yamalube 2S is incorrect. Yamalube 2S is their general purpose 2-stroke oil.
Yamalube 2S

The oil you are thinking of is the Yamalube 2W.

Yamalube 2W

FWIW, there is also Yamalube 2M, which is their TC-W3 oil...

I've considered the 2R, but have heard that it is better for those who tear their engines down frequently to clean them out. That, and the fact that I can get 2S in a gallon jug for $30 (which is 7.50/Qt.) :) You say the 2R is clean burning, so maybe its worth another look...

I've would run Maxima's Scooter 2T, but can't get it for less than $10/Qt. locally, and it has to be "special ordered". Maxima is good stuff, I 'd use Scooter Pro, too, if it were available around here. If I remember correctly, the only Maxima product I can get locally without special ordering it is Castor 927, and I'll pass on that, thank you... As for Klotz, the only locally available stuff is too spendy and has castor in it. I'll pass on that, too...

Amsoil... A lot of guys in the "scoot circles" online use either saber or interceptor. I contacted my closest dealer about getting some Saber, but they didn't stock it, would have to order it, and I was put off by the fact that they wanted to charge me an absurd amount for shipping.

I seem to live in a black hole with regard to choices for good 2-stroke oil!

Oh, and yes, I premix. Both bikes were oil injected, but I disconnected both systems when I installed the big bore kits. Although I have used two different oils in each bike as long as I have owned them, I am not necessarily opposed to using the same stuff in each.
 
There are a few offerings from Elf that fit your criteria. Shell AeroSport would be an alternative also. Almost anything less than 10.00 a quart is going to be mail order though. If you can find Citgo Sea and Snow, that was usually very reasonable, in the 5-6.00 range. BTW, if you check the msds of Lucas, you'll find it is very similar to Castrol Act-Evo. It one of the offerings from Lucas that isn't half bad,IMO.
My 2.00 a quart closeout Mobil MX2T still looks really good :).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: beanoil
There are a few offerings from Elf that fit your criteria. Shell AeroSport would be an alternative also. Almost anything less than 10.00 a quart is going to be mail order though. If you can find Citgo Sea and Snow, that was usually very reasonable, in the 5-6.00 range. BTW, if you check the msds of Lucas, you'll find it is very similar to Castrol Act-Evo. It one of the offerings from Lucas that isn't half bad,IMO.
My 2.00 a quart closeout Mobil MX2T still looks really good :).


Elf: Not available locally, or at any of the online retailers that I normally do business with. Is there a US-based site you can point me at?

Shell AeroSport: I'm aware of this product, but haven't been able to find it locally, and it is way overpriced online (at least on the sites I have been on). This is supposed to be the replacement for Pennzoil Air-cooled, which is a favorite of the ultralight pilots.

Citgo Sea and Snow: I'm aware of this product, too, and its supposed to be good stuff (along with its clone, Mystik Sea and Snow). I couldn't find this anywhere locally, either...

Lucas: Thanks for your comment on this. This oil seems to work quite well, although I have only run a few tankfuls in my one scoot so far.

Mobil MX2T: I've heard a lot of good things about this oil, and the fact that people scooped it up when it went on closeout. Unfortunately, it was long gone before I heard they were closing it out...just like the Castrol I use, which went down to 1.90/qt. at Pep Boys before it was gone.

Why is it that they always discontinue the good stuff?? :-(
 
on 2S i stupidly wrote watercraft with my fingers and my brain was thinking sleds. sorry.
also realize that its been a while since i've raced 2smokes, but when i did i used either 2R (until my cases ran out) or MX2T.

ok you have done the smart thing and gotten rid of the selfoiler.
i was guessing you had from the intelligence in your posts but wanted to be sure. cant just blindly assume.

oh, another serious question. are these air cooled or water cooled and how much warmup time do you give them before you wfo?

laughing at the older carb being the better one!
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh

oh, another serious question. are these air cooled or water cooled and how much warmup time do you give them before you wfo?


Both are air cooled. I usually let them warm up until the CHT is showing at least 150-deg F, before riding at all, if not a little higher. Then I usually wait until I'm down the road a bit before opening it up. The older one averages about 360-deg on the flats, and the newer one about 250 degrees on the flats. The newer one has a LOT more cooling fin area, though.
 
very interesting on the temps.

how many hrs/miles do you get out of a set of rings? or piston?
do you swap both at the same time?
cylinder prep on a rebuild?
what is your ring end gap?
what size bore?
what is your break in procedure?
are the ports camfered or not?
case or cylinder reed block?

what spark plug do you run (make and model)?
how is it gapped?

steve
 
I don't think small leave blower engines care too much about the oil. They spin real fast and are usually over cooled. Air cooled motorcycle, or ultralight engines may need a specific type of oil. Japanese motorcycle manufacturers require another type of oil (J rated??).


(just a guess) One reason why a two stroke oil could be labeled as "Mufti-Purpose" is that they contain a higher quality base stock that doesn't require an ash producing additive package. That way it can be used in air cooled as well as water cooled engines. Another guess is that most people aren't sure what they need, and most likely the TCW-3 oil won't hurt.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: sunruh
very interesting on the temps.

how many hrs/miles do you get out of a set of rings? or piston?
do you swap both at the same time?
cylinder prep on a rebuild?
what is your ring end gap?
what size bore?
what is your break in procedure?
are the ports camfered or not?
case or cylinder reed block?

what spark plug do you run (make and model)?
how is it gapped?

steve


Wow, thats a lot of questions. I don't mind, but I hope that getting a little OT here won't bother anyone!

Bike #1 has about 2000 miles on the top end and still going strong on the original cylinder/piston/rings that came with the kit. (I pulled the head off for an inspection last month, and everything still looked great) All were installed new. As for cylnder prep, I just examined it to make sure that everything looked good, cleaned it thouroughly, and then installed it (after checking ring gap and coating everything with 2-stroke oil, or course). Ring end gap was around .007" and the bore is 44mm. The ports were factory-chamfered and the reed block is attached to the cylinder. Spark plug is a NGK B6HS, gapped the "normal" way at .018". I tried side gapping a plug for this bike once with no apparent difference in performance.

Bike #2 has about 300 miles on the top end, so it is still fairly new. As for cylnder prep, I did the same as above. Ring end gap was again around .007" and the bore is 45.5mm. The ports were factory-chamfered and the reed block is attached to the case. Spark plug is a NGK BP6HS, gapped the "normal" way at .018".

Break in procedure...oooo, that can be a touchy subject, as everyone has their opinion on how this should be done. My break-in procedure is a combination of methods that I researched a few years ago. Basically, I do three heat cycles, then a "slow" ride at varying throttle for about 10 minutes, followed by a complete cooldown, another ride thats a little more agressive at varying throttle for about 10 minutes, followed by a complete cooldown, then I warm it up and ride to the top of the mountain near my house, which puts a good load on the engine to completely seat the rings. Also, I use regular petroleum oil for break-in, and for the first few tanks thereafter.

I think I covered all of your questions. :)
 
Originally Posted By: Loobed


(just a guess) One reason why a two stroke oil could be labeled as "Mufti-Purpose" is that they contain a higher quality base stock that doesn't require an ash producing additive package. That way it can be used in air cooled as well as water cooled engines. Another guess is that most people aren't sure what they need, and most likely the TCW-3 oil won't hurt.




That is entirely possible... It would be great to be able to pick the brain of a chemical engineer who worked for an oil company to get his/her take on this.

Reverting back to my original post for a minute, it looks like Lucas has a multi purpose product as well:

Lucas Land and Sea

Quote from the web page: Lucas High Performance Semi-Synthetic 2 CYCLE Land & Sea Oil TC-W3 has been specifically developed for Motorcycles, ATVs, Go Karts, Personal Watercraft, Outboards, Snowmobiles, Weed Eaters and Chain Saws.

It also says on the label that it meets or exceeds API TC and JASO FB. The newest JASO spec is FD, so in my opinion this stuff isn't as good as an air-cooled specific 2-cycle oil.

That being said, my original question remains...
 
Originally Posted By: Sterret
Originally Posted By: Loobed


(just a guess) One reason why a two stroke oil could be labeled as "Mufti-Purpose" is that they contain a higher quality base stock that doesn't require an ash producing additive package. That way it can be used in air cooled as well as water cooled engines. Another guess is that most people aren't sure what they need, and most likely the TCW-3 oil won't hurt.




That is entirely possible... It would be great to be able to pick the brain of a chemical engineer who worked for an oil company to get his/her take on this.

Reverting back to my original post for a minute, it looks like Lucas has a multi purpose product as well:

Lucas Land and Sea

Quote from the web page: Lucas High Performance Semi-Synthetic 2 CYCLE Land & Sea Oil TC-W3 has been specifically developed for Motorcycles, ATVs, Go Karts, Personal Watercraft, Outboards, Snowmobiles, Weed Eaters and Chain Saws.

It also says on the label that it meets or exceeds API TC and JASO FB. The newest JASO spec is FD, so in my opinion this stuff isn't as good as an air-cooled specific 2-cycle oil.

That being said, my original question remains...


Let me have another stab at answering this one:

Both specifications have requirements that must be met for performance. These are based on the primary application of the oil so they have different aspects of what matters to them.

The TCW-3 spec prohibits ash producing additives becuase of spark plug issues on outboard motors, but includes things like corrosion resistance, etc.

The JASO FA, FB, FC, and FD as well as their ISO counterparts, EGB, ECG, and EGD are based results of a battery of performance tests and specify only a maximum level of ash producing additives. The primary application for this oil has more than enough temperature and speed variations to avoid the spark plug bridging issue that drives marine lubes to almost eliminate ash producing additives.

The EGD/FD rating does not require that an oil contain a certain level of ash producing additives, it's just what typically is required to meet the spec. So if your base oil chemistry plus the ashless additive pack is robust enough, you don't need to mix in ash producing additives to bridge the gap.

From my "calibrated" seat of the pants analysis of PDS and MSDS, the bulk of the "Multi-Purpose" oils are re-purposed TCW-3 oils. If you have a piece of equipment with an engine that requires a higher spec oil, you probably know about it (or at least you should).

Most OPE manufacturers are requiring that you use oil meeting the JASO FC or JASO FD specification, and all of their house-brand oil is meeting that. Since the dual rated oils are both new and rare, there might be some wording to the effect of" Don't use TCW-3 oils in our stuff." which is the safest route for someone who isn't a BITOG member.

I have both the Klotz and the Mystik Ultimate in the que for my 2 smoke stuff, I'll let you know if there is anything remarkable that I find.

The API TC designation hasn't been updated in ages, so for me it carries little meaning, I much prefer JASO FD.
 
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