What oil for my new 2022 Pathfinder

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I applaud you on the 5k over the recommended 10k change interval. Use pretty much whatever brand name, but the 5k is the key to long engine life.
 
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I applaud you on the 5k over the recommended 10k change interval. Use pretty much whatever brand name, but the 5k is the key to long engine life.
Whoever wrote that owner's manual is delusional, no VQ is making it to 10,000 without burning oil
 
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While updated constantly, it is still a VQ motor that is known to shred oil like there is no tomorrow. 5K is a great plan. Go with a reputable synthetic, but in slightly higher viscosity to offset the oil shear. While timing chain in VQ engines has been shearing oil for decades now, the current VQ engines got this issue even worse, due to addition of Direct Injection.

My #1 pick would be Mobil1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40, or any oil that has same certifications. My #2 pick would be a good synthetic 5W30, preferably EURO rated, as additive packages are usually more stout when compared to normal API SP offerings. 5K OCI with either.
Reason for these suggestions is that by using a more stout oil from the beginning - you may prevent the oil consumption issues down the road. If you stay with 0W20, then even @ 3k OCIs the VQ engine WILL develop serious oil consumption before end of warranty period.
 
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JTK

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I own a 2019 Pathfinder with the same VQ35DD engine. Given the way this particular direct injected engine quickly blackens the engine oil, I would absolutely not go beyond 5k miles between OCIs.

Mine also specs 0w20, but at a 5k mile OCI. If you poke around, you'll see quite a few reports of severely sludged up VQ35DD engines in a disturbingly low amount of miles, like 35-40k miles. New replacement DDs are something insane like $12k.

I run synthetic 5w30 in mine at a 3000-4000 mile OCI per the reasons above.
 
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Philly is a temperate climate. Cold Winters, followed by hot, humid Summers. I would use 0W-20 in the Winter. And 0W-30, or 5W-30 in the Summer. No more than 5,000 OCI with a new filter every time.
 
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Philly is a temperate climate. Cold Winters, followed by hot, humid Summers. I would use 0W-20 in the Winter. And 0W-30, or 5W-30 in the Summer. No more than 5,000 OCI with a new filter every time.
It is not cold enough to need a change seasonal change in viscosity with todays recommended oils. any 0w or 5W oil gives good cold starting performance below -30*f.
 
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If Nissan would just add a small port injector in addition to the DI all would be good.

That could be said about any GDI engine manufacturer that does not use dual injection. The issue is the cost associated with adding the complexity of dual injection. I feel like many, if not most, manufacturers are basing their decision to adopt GDI first and foremost as a means to better go about complying with environmentalist regulations. Aside from that the engines generally offer better performance with the main drawback being long term maintenance concerns. I'm sure the corporate bean counters weigh projections about the cost of dual injection versus potential warranty claim payouts for not using dual injection.
 
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That could be said about any GDI engine manufacturer that does not use dual injection. The issue is the cost associated with adding the complexity of dual injection. I feel like many, if not most, manufacturers are basing their decision to adopt GDI first and foremost as a means to better go about complying with environmentalist regulations. Aside from that the engines generally offer better performance with the main drawback being long term maintenance concerns. I'm sure the corporate bean counters weigh projections about the cost of dual injection versus potential warranty claim payouts for not using dual injection.
Agree. Even VW removed the dual injection in their Euro cars in the EA888. DI does have efficiency and performance benefits at least.
 
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Naturally aspirated DI engines generally don’t have CBU as turbo. Even VW 3.6 VR6 that was introduced in 2006 doesn’t have these issues.
In 2022 if naturally aspirated engine develops excessive CBU, sell the car.
As for fuel dilution, if it is true, bump viscosity if owners manual allows. I know a lot of people with these engines use Euro oils.
If not, stick to 0W20, run 5k, and do UOA.
And, all oils are made with DI in mind. There is nothing magical about Valvoline except marketing.
 
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