What oil filter would you use?

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Lol, it seems to always come down to puro bashing with you. I wasn't even talking about about specifically.
If you have a grudge with puro then OK. But I haven't yet had an issue nor seen a recent issue with them.
Now do you have an opinion on my idea to just use more basic products for less time or do you only wish to argue down purolator?
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Lol, it seems to always come down to puro bashing with you. I wasn't even talking about about specifically.
If you have a grudge with puro then OK. But I haven't yet had an issue nor seen a recent issue with them.
Now do you have an opinion on my idea to just use more basic products for less time or do you only wish to argue down purolator?


Yeah, I'm the only one here so puts down Purolator ... LoL. Seems you have some history here, it's obvious. So glad you and a couple others think they are "just fine". Keep on using them, I and anyone else who's moved on to another filter really don't care.
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i like the classic because of the flow.. i dont use fram anything oil filter wise.. air filters is another story

That's completely understandable. Why use a fram when you got so many other options at compatible prices wix puro Mann motorcraft that use real metal endcaps.i wouldn't fear the fu though. This may be the one thing fram ever did that can save an otherwise hopeless reputation amongst anyone in the know.



Why use Fram? I will continue to use the tough guard when I'm not using an Ultra because they have higher efficiency than anything you mentioned for my application. 99% for the tough guard at 20 microns.

I don't fear the fiber end disc, I dissect my filters and Tough guards always are intact for me even with nice and straight pleats when I run them for multi intervals.
 
In the dirty engine scenario I'd invent a third option.
Drain the oil and fill to the brim with diesel, let it sit for 24 hours then drain.
Fill with mineral 15w40 and a cheap filter, drive 100 miles and dump it.

Fill with a quality synthetic and a quality filter and call it a day.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Lol, it seems to always come down to puro bashing with you. I wasn't even talking about about specifically.
If you have a grudge with puro then OK. But I haven't yet had an issue nor seen a recent issue with them.
Now do you have an opinion on my idea to just use more basic products for less time or do you only wish to argue down purolator?


Yeah, I'm the only one here so puts down Purolator ... LoL. Seems you have some history here, it's obvious. So glad you and a couple others think they are "just fine". Keep on using them, I and anyone else who's moved on to another filter really don't care.

Your blind with resentment it seems. Forget that I mentioned puro. Just focus on motorcraft I mentioned or Wix. I should mentioned Wix too. Everybody lives Wix don't they.
I just think maybe it makes more since to use lower priced non top tier products for less time. Or i could slap on an ultra or pls for 15k and just change the Sam's club oil every 4k or so.
 
No resentment ... just reality of the Tearolator situation. I like WIX expect for their XP full synthetic, but that's just me not liking low efficiency filters. Motorcraft is OK, but there have been a few reported that tore. I plan on using a MC FL-500S on my next oil change on a new Ford car, and not really concerned about it since the FL-500S filters cut open here look pretty good.

Like I said before, "low priced top tier products" usually don't happen. You pretty much do get what you pay for with oil filters IMO. It makes more sense to use a better filter and use it longer ... in the end, you won't save much if anything by using real cheap products. That's just my own personal mode of operation, and if someone want's to go that route that's fine since it's not my money or my stuff it's going on.
 
OMG your going to run a filter that has some reported tears, guess its ok if it's not a pure. What a hypocrite!!! LOL GMAFB. I'm out of here, can't take anymore of this [censored]
 
I wouldn't call motorcraft top tier but good quality none the less and low cost compared to so called top tier. You must agree since your gonna use one. So no low cost top tier idea was suggest by me. I mentioned quality yet inexpensive products not cheaply made or formulated products.
Anyway it appears to be in your nature to just argue which accomplishes nothing good.
I'm glad I've warned others about bad cardboard end caps anyway. Enjoy your evening
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
I wouldn't call motorcraft top tier but good quality none the less and low cost compared to so called top tier. You must agree since your gonna use one. So no low cost top tier idea was suggest by me. I mentioned quality yet inexpensive products not cheaply made or formulated products.
Anyway it appears to be in your nature to just argue which accomplishes nothing good.
I'm glad I've warned others about bad cardboard end caps anyway. Enjoy your evening


Bad cardboard end caps? That's ridiculous. Many manufacturers use fiber end discs including Bently. Some filters use no end disc at all. They use sonic welding or adhesive only. Do you know what the job of the end disc is? It can be achieved many different ways including fiber or steel. Please stop spreading bad information
 
Non encapsulated filters do not bug me at all. They are sealed with the same adhesive that holds metal caps on. The cardboard caps to get brittle. It's been posted on here recently. I've seen a recent dissection of a ocod where the end cap peeled right off with 2 fingers and little force. Which side will the glue stick to if and when the cap peels off in use. What happens tithe broke off chunk when it gets sucked into the engine?
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Non encapsulated filters do not bug me at all. They are sealed with the same adhesive that holds metal caps on. The cardboard caps to get brittle. It's been posted on here recently. I've seen a recent dissection of a ocod where the end cap peeled right off with 2 fingers and little force. Which side will the glue stick to if and when the cap peels off in use. What happens tithe broke off chunk when it gets sucked into the engine?


I've never seen it can you share the thread? In my experience the fiber end discs are held on much better than steel, I have never been able to easily tear the ends off my tough guards
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Non encapsulated filters do not bug me at all. They are sealed with the same adhesive that holds metal caps on. The cardboard caps to get brittle. It's been posted on here recently. I've seen a recent dissection of a ocod where the end cap peeled right off with 2 fingers and little force. Which side will the glue stick to if and when the cap peels off in use. What happens tithe broke off chunk when it gets sucked into the engine?


Really? Then why did you say that no one could be so ignorant to suggest it, as you did in another thread (which you haven't responded to yet, by the way).
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
I wouldn't call motorcraft top tier but good quality none the less and low cost compared to so called top tier. You must agree since your gonna use one. So no low cost top tier idea was suggest by me. I mentioned quality yet inexpensive products not cheaply made or formulated products.
Anyway it appears to be in your nature to just argue which accomplishes nothing good.
I'm glad I've warned others about bad cardboard end caps anyway. Enjoy your evening


Suffice to say, the fear of the cardboard endcaps can be pushed to the wayside along with the "PYB is full of wax" fear. OCOD is fine. There are better options for the price, which is the only reason I can think of as a reason to avoid.
 
Originally Posted By: Skanky
OMG your going to run a filter that has some reported tears, guess its ok if it's not a pure. What a hypocrite!!! LOL GMAFB. I'm out of here, can't take anymore of this [censored]


Ouch ... snap! LoL
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
I wouldn't call motorcraft top tier but good quality none the less and low cost compared to so called top tier. You must agree since your gonna use one.


I'm gonna use one because the car is under warranty and the FL-500S specifically seems to always look good when inspected. As I said, MC is decent. Plus it has the base end bypass valve which is a plus with the orientation of the filter on this engine. Motorcraft didn't suffer the failure rate anywhere close to that of the Purolators, so I'm not really worried about the risk level with them. Probably go with the Ultra after the warranty is up, or at least until the engine has had enough miles to ensure it doesn't have any mechanical issues.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Non encapsulated filters do not bug me at all. They are sealed with the same adhesive that holds metal caps on. The cardboard caps to get brittle. It's been posted on here recently. I've seen a recent dissection of a ocod where the end cap peeled right off with 2 fingers and little force. Which side will the glue stick to if and when the cap peels off in use. What happens tithe broke off chunk when it gets sucked into the engine?


Really? Then why did you say that no one could be so ignorant to suggest it, as you did in another thread (which you haven't responded to yet, by the way).

I don't follow u on that. Wich thread. I'd be happy to help you with your misunderstanding of what ever is said
 
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Really? Then why did you say that no one could be so ignorant to suggest it, as you did in another thread (which you haven't responded to yet, by the way).

I don't follow u on that. Wich thread. I'd be happy to help you with your misunderstanding of what ever is said


Oh, I don't think there is any misunderstanding. But here it is:

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