What oil filter are you using on OPE, boats, snowblower generator etc?

I was about to to overthink the whole oil and filter change on my John Deere D140 and after some soul searching I came to conclusion. I will get a regular fram filter and use kirkland 15w-40 oil that I use for my truck.
I mow 2 acres of grass april-november. And I change oil and filter at the beginning of the season.
 
My John Deere D140 lawn tractor with the 22 HP Briggs V-Twin got the little JD branded filter at about eight hours. The next two changes saw a Wix 51348. Since then it has been Fram Tough Guard 3614. Originally this was a seasonal change but now I am changing the filter every other season. My mower has averaged 31 hours per season for ten years but there have been both 20 and 50 hour seasons. This season is trending above the norm.
 
Been using Fram 3614's. Extra Guard, Tough Guard or Ultra's, whatever I can get a deal on.
 
Baldwin B7165 on my Cub Cadet LT46 with the Kohler 22hp Twin. One of the few filters the doesn't eventually rub the steering arm.

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For our Kawasaki Powered Lawn Equipment we normally use Purolator Tech TL14476 and TL14477 (prefer to use the longer can TL14477 if it will fit) . Been using them since (iirc) 22 years ago when we got our first Kawasaki 23 HP V-twin powered mower which now has over 700 hours with only oil/filter changes so far.

I like the Purolator Tech as they are a lower cost filter that still has steel internals. I worry about the plastic/nylon E-core internals softening with higher oil temperatures during summer heat with air cooled mowing equipment engines.

My understanding is the Purolator Tech filter line replaced the Purolator Classic Line which we used prior. Many times we can find them on Amazon for less than $3 per filter shipped to residential address.

The other filter I will use if I have an existing order for something at Rock Auto is the Champ-Luber Finer PH2840 as it is currently $1.85 each but have to pay shipping hence that is why I only buy them if I have another purchase to add too. It also has the steel internals to support the filter element.

Slick
I don’t buy your reasoning for disliking the ECORE designed. I’ve worked in fleet for 19+ years and for 15 of them we used CHAMP or ECORE style filters. Lots of idling, heat and freezing cold. Never an issue and I’ve cut thousands and posted them here. I hate pirolators to begin with as they can’t keep media from seperate t or tearing.

This hatred for “ECORE or nylon core” and heat and oil type BS needs to die asap. It’s disgusting to read about wjen there are ZERO facts and proof of it happening.
 
I don’t buy your reasoning for disliking the ECORE designed. I’ve worked in fleet for 19+ years and for 15 of them we used CHAMP or ECORE style filters. Lots of idling, heat and freezing cold. Never an issue and I’ve cut thousands and posted them here. I hate pirolators to begin with as they can’t keep media from seperate t or tearing.

This hatred for “ECORE or nylon core” and heat and oil type BS needs to die asap. It’s disgusting to read about wjen there are ZERO facts and proof of it happening.

53' Stude and others

Thanks for the question.
Hopefully someone in our group can help me know the material properties of the plastic/nylon material used in E-core filters and put my mind at ease. Chalk it up to being very conservative with respect to material properties. I just do not have the data.

Some background and clarification.

My concern comes from not knowing the material temperature ranges the E-core Plastic/Nylon materials are designed to and not exhibit excessive creep/distortion/shortened life. I do know that the even lower grades of likely cold rolled steel used in internal for filters have a much higher operating temperature range before thermal growth/creep/distortion could result in loss of internal filter medial support.

I use many E-core filters without concern on automotive applications with liquid cooled engines. The designers have knowledge of oil temperature extremes the oil filter can be exposed too and the material properties used in the E-core filters.

My concern with E-core filters is specific to air cooled outdoor power equipment engines operated at higher ambient outside air temperatures. One example is my 23 HP V-twin Kawasaki powering a 52 inch zero turn Wright Stander Mower. Kawasaki sells their branded filter which i trust they have specified to the filter manufacturer what materials are used to work in the oil temperature heat range the engine was designed for.

To avoid paying high prices for Kawasaki Branded Filters I cross reference to a high volume automotive lower cost filter. The cross reference filter was designed for a liquid cooled automotive application and might not comprehend the potentially higher oil temperatures possible in an air cooled outdoor power equipment engine running in high load conditions with outside temperature of 100+ F.

My concern is: if the automotive cross referenced E-core filter internal materials are still suitable for use in a air cooled outdoor power equipment engine at the highest oil temperatures. I lack the data to know the answer and suspect the filter manufacturer has not done the extreme hot testing with an application the cross referenced filter was not designed for.

Plus I am conservative and know for sure the steel internals will handle highest oil temperature that can enter the filter. (possibly internal glue used could be the first to fail).

Appreciate any information to help me better understand.

Best regards

Slick
 
I just don’t understand why champ labs and others to this day still use a plastic center tube and we see no issues. If no proof and facts are shown; I’m no longer reading.

Bye
 
Just service my one neighbors older Cub Cadet rider. Put a OG ULTRA 3614 and some HPL CK4 5w30 in. Replaced one headlamp bulb too.
 
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