In my wife's Nissan, I want to switch from 5w-30 to 4.5 quarts of straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer, because I hate the thing.
What oil and/or viscosity are you contemplating changing to?
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Originally Posted by Warstud
I'm going to try some 0w0.
https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/pro-v-racing/sae-0w-oil
No need to thank me.
I'm going to try some 0w0.
https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/pro-v-racing/sae-0w-oil
No need to thank me.
Still got a massive stash of oil i plan to just stick with my SAE 30 / 10W40 oils for a while both of my relics could care less what i pour in them.
Now that we are getting a few cooler days in Australia it's time get change out my summer oil, a semi-synthetic 15W40 with Euro A3/B3, and put in my winter oil.
I'm thinking of a full synthetic 10W30 thats A5/B5 and GF-5.
If I go that way, then that will be the second time ever that I have run an ILSAC GF-5 oil.
I'm thinking of a full synthetic 10W30 thats A5/B5 and GF-5.
If I go that way, then that will be the second time ever that I have run an ILSAC GF-5 oil.
Been running Magnatec 5w30 in my 3800 but have Valvoline Advanced on deck for it and will run it for a year. I have one more OC of VR1 10w30 for the 5.7 this summer then I'm going to start running Rotella gas/truck 5w30.
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Triple_Se7en
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I like Multi Vehicle over Gas Truck. But hard to find at a good price currently.
Hmm, walks out to garage and looks at stash, walks back in looks at spreadsheet of stash, decides no need to change anything for current vehicles.
I actually do plan on using my stash of T6 5w-30 in the Santa Fe in a few years when my stash of PP 10w-30 is gone.
Otherwise I plan on sticking with what I have been doing.
I actually do plan on using my stash of T6 5w-30 in the Santa Fe in a few years when my stash of PP 10w-30 is gone.
Otherwise I plan on sticking with what I have been doing.
I am thinking about trying M1 10W30 HM for my next change, it is SN+ now (for my DIT engine) and also has a high HTHS (3.5) and a low Noack loss (7.6% per XOM, shared by a kind poster here).
I am kind of bummed that XOM is not offering a spring rebate yet!!
Valvoline 10W30 HM synth w/ Maxlife is also an option, but I don't see it at my closest WM...will try the bigger one a little farther away (and closer to my work).
Have never run a 10W30 before, all 5W30s until the 0W30 I ran this past winter.
I am kind of bummed that XOM is not offering a spring rebate yet!!
Valvoline 10W30 HM synth w/ Maxlife is also an option, but I don't see it at my closest WM...will try the bigger one a little farther away (and closer to my work).
Have never run a 10W30 before, all 5W30s until the 0W30 I ran this past winter.
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
In my wife's Nissan, I want to switch from 5w-30 to 4.5 quarts of straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer, because I hate the thing.
In my wife's Nissan, I want to switch from 5w-30 to 4.5 quarts of straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer, because I hate the thing.
Originally Posted by JLTD
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
In my wife's Nissan, I want to switch from 5w-30 to 4.5 quarts of straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer, because I hate the thing.
AC compressor went out back in October, alternator went out in December, radiator sprung a leak in January, and now it has a shudder shift. I'm sick of fixing that thing.
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
In my wife's Nissan, I want to switch from 5w-30 to 4.5 quarts of straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer, because I hate the thing.
AC compressor went out back in October, alternator went out in December, radiator sprung a leak in January, and now it has a shudder shift. I'm sick of fixing that thing.
Just ordered some Havoline DS pro 10w30 on Walmart.com
Couldn't resist.
Couldn't resist.
Going to change PPHM for this OCI over AC Delco. I got a very good deal on it.
Usually 5W30 FS. Sometimes a 10W30 in summer. Might try the 0W40 Castrol Edge or M1 or PPPP.
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5w30 to 10w40 in the 5.0 after warranty, why? to see if it will get rid of the typewriter tick
monograde 30-weight (API SN, not detergentless, obviously). Trying it in the 2GR-FE this summer.
Thinking over QSGB 20w-50 in a shared-sump bike... can't quite justify it in my head yet, though.
Thinking over QSGB 20w-50 in a shared-sump bike... can't quite justify it in my head yet, though.
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
5w30 to 10w40 in the 5.0 after warranty, why? to see if it will get rid of the typewriter tick
The coyote specs 5w50 when put in the Mustang GT. Wanna try a 15w40 at least?
5w30 to 10w40 in the 5.0 after warranty, why? to see if it will get rid of the typewriter tick
The coyote specs 5w50 when put in the Mustang GT. Wanna try a 15w40 at least?
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Originally Posted by Brian553
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
5w30 to 10w40 in the 5.0 after warranty, why? to see if it will get rid of the typewriter tick
The coyote specs 5w50 when put in the Mustang GT. Wanna try a 15w40 at least?
I thought about it, being 5w20 is what Ford specs I plan on working my way there one oil change at a time. Last OC was PP 5w30, dident make a bit of difference in the way the engine sounded vs the factory fill. I bought a T6 5w40 2.5 gallon for the next change to try out, (10 qt's required) I hope folks dont get to worried, here in Tampa we never see cold temps.
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
5w30 to 10w40 in the 5.0 after warranty, why? to see if it will get rid of the typewriter tick
The coyote specs 5w50 when put in the Mustang GT. Wanna try a 15w40 at least?
I thought about it, being 5w20 is what Ford specs I plan on working my way there one oil change at a time. Last OC was PP 5w30, dident make a bit of difference in the way the engine sounded vs the factory fill. I bought a T6 5w40 2.5 gallon for the next change to try out, (10 qt's required) I hope folks dont get to worried, here in Tampa we never see cold temps.
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