What oil and additives for break in?

Pennzoil motor oil
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Chris142

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I'm going to go through my 392 IHC in my old truck. Some of the parts I'm going to replace is the cam and lifters with new(not reground) parts.

The engine does not have roller lifters and the valve spring pressures will be a little stiffer than stock.

I'm thinking of using some "SL" SAE30 and a bottle of SLOB I still have. I still see that Pennzoil and a few others are still using the SL in the SAE 30.

The engine was originally specked for SAE40 but normally it seems happy on 20w50. I don't think I need to run thick oil for break in.

Would the GM EOS be a better choice than the SLOB?
 
I would think the GM EOS would be a better choice. Red Line and Torco also have good break in additives and both located in CA. Why not use either Delo or Rotella SAE 30. Both loaded with zddp. I did not know you had an old IHC truck. Those old truck were pretty rugged. I use to have an old Scout and that thing was a tank.
 
It goes beyond oil additives.

Crane's instructions pretty well capture a 50 year plus time honored way to break in flat tappet cams.

http://cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

Slobbering the cam lube on the lifters and cam at assembly and not allowing the engine to to run at low speed for 20-30 minutes after initial start up are key parts of the process.

You might get away with less, but you will feel virtuous if you do the full drill.

Thank you for keeping that old beast running.
 
Originally Posted By: XS650

Slobbering the cam lube on the lifters and cam at assembly and not allowing the engine to to run at low speed for 20-30 minutes after initial start up are key parts of the process.



I've always done it that way but I've found it can be helpfull to keep a garden hose handy to spray through the fins on the radiator incase you need help cooling a fresh tight engine while keeping the revs between 2000-3000.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I'm going to go through my 392 IHC in my old truck. Some of the parts I'm going to replace is the cam and lifters with new(not reground) parts.

The engine does not have roller lifters and the valve spring pressures will be a little stiffer than stock.

I'm thinking of using some "SL" SAE30 and a bottle of SLOB I still have. I still see that Pennzoil and a few others are still using the SL in the SAE 30.

The engine was originally specked for SAE40 but normally it seems happy on 20w50. I don't think I need to run thick oil for break in.

Would the GM EOS be a better choice than the SLOB?


You could try this...
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
std-Break-In-Oil.jpg


If you have questions about it you can contact their tech department and ask...

[email protected]
 
Originally Posted By: XS650
It goes beyond oil additives.

Crane's instructions pretty well capture a 50 year plus time honored way to break in flat tappet cams.

http://cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

Slobbering the cam lube on the lifters and cam at assembly and not allowing the engine to to run at low speed for 20-30 minutes after initial start up are key parts of the process.

You might get away with less, but you will feel virtuous if you do the full drill.

Thank you for keeping that old beast running.
Ya I've always done it that way. Only had 2 cams go flat during break in and both were on a Chevy.

I've always used the black Moly engine assembly lube for assembly.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I'm going to go through my 392 IHC in my old truck. Some of the parts I'm going to replace is the cam and lifters with new(not reground) parts.

The engine does not have roller lifters and the valve spring pressures will be a little stiffer than stock.

I'm thinking of using some "SL" SAE30 and a bottle of SLOB I still have. I still see that Pennzoil and a few others are still using the SL in the SAE 30.

The engine was originally specked for SAE40 but normally it seems happy on 20w50. I don't think I need to run thick oil for break in.

Would the GM EOS be a better choice than the SLOB?


You could try this...
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
std-Break-In-Oil.jpg


If you have questions about it you can contact their tech department and ask...

[email protected]



15.gif
LOL.gif
LOL.gif
 
1. High detergent and dispersant oils are best to be avoided. Those additives compete with the anti-wear additives. So avoid oils meeting recent diesel engine specs. Sure, many people have used them with success but that doesn't mean it's best, just that it can "work".

2. GM EOS > SLOB in my opinion for break-in additives. SLOB has additives in it beyond just anti-wear additives. There are also other additives meant for break-in that are just as worth using as GM EOS.

3. Break-in oils should be a little thinner than what you'd use later on. Thinner oils facilitate a more ideal break-in.

So what to use for break-in oil? My opinion is either buy any major brand API SM 5w30 mineral oil and spike it with break-in additives or better yet, exclusively use Joe Gibbs break-in oil products: http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/enginebuilder.html
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Ya I've always done it that way. Only had 2 cams go flat during break in and both were on a Chevy.

I've always used the black Moly engine assembly lube for assembly.


A lot of cam manufacturers were buying blanks from China and grinding them in the states. I think you got some soft Chinese made cams. It was not a single company that did it. A lot of them did.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I'm going to go through my 392 IHC in my old truck. Some of the parts I'm going to replace is the cam and lifters with new(not reground) parts.


I've got a 1950 International pickup with the six banger and about 10 years ago I overhauled an IH 461 c.i. gasser in an old semi truck. (Still running today)
They knew how to put a lot of iron in those blocks. I'm curious about the valve spring pressure. Why increase it?
My choice would be 15w40 diesel oil AFTER the break in, but that's just me. On that old gal, I think the straight 30W would be fine for the break in.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Chris142 said:
I'm curious about the valve spring pressure. Why increase it?
These engines wont rev past 3800-4000 rpm with the stock springs and cam. When I replaced it back in 1999 I used a hi performance cam from Comp Cams. Was never really happy with the cam as far as power was concerned but with the springs which are BiG Block Chevy springs it will make power well over 5000 rpm.

I have a wide ratio 4 speed trans in mine and it's not too fun to drive when pulling a heavy load uphill and being stuck @ 3600 rpm because there is too big of an rpm drop to grab another gear.

I bet that you have never heard a 392 IHC idle like this
LOL.gif
Turn the sound up.

Click to expand...
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I'm going to go through my 392 IHC in my old truck. Some of the parts I'm going to replace is the cam and lifters with new(not reground) parts.

The engine does not have roller lifters and the valve spring pressures will be a little stiffer than stock.


Did your cam supplier also provide a break-in lube? When I rebuilt my "new" 440 3 years ago, I used a Mopar Performance reproduction of the Magnum/Commando/TNT/Roadrunner cam, and MP provides a break-in lube for the cam lobes that contains an etchant to provide the correct surface on the hardened surface of the lobes and the lifter face. The instructions also warned to keep that stuff OFF the cam bearing surfaces and use only normal assembly lubes there. I broke it in using only the cam assembly goo, regular assembly lube, and Castrol GTX 10w30 (SL). 2000 RPM for 20 minutes, drain and fill with fresh oil and a filter, run 500 miles, then another oil change. 30k miles on that engine so far, no cam problems yet (even using SM oils after breakin).


IF the cam grinder didn't provide anything, I'd stick with the basics- good quality oil and some GM EOS or equivalent.
 
Know a shop that builds with hypoid gear oil, been doing it for years and swear it's works better than most the greases and pastes and oil adds.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Whats wrong with the Royal Purple break in oil?


Nothing. PT1 is a RP hater/basher who delights in trying to pick fights with those who like it. He has WAY too much time on his hands.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Whats wrong with the Royal Purple break in oil?


Nothing. PT1 is a RP hater/basher who delights in trying to pick fights with those who like it. He has WAY too much time on his hands.
Oh ok. I don't use their products but if they make a special oil for breaking in a new cam and lifters I will consider using it for that.
 
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