what oil additive for sludge prevention?

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I think what Ron AKA was thinking was not all synthetics will clean up an engine (thats the way I took it) as well as dino. sxg6, do we know for all certain synthetic cleans better than dino? Maybe they do. Thats why I searched all voa in the first place, to see if there was a common link in add packs. My first impression (pre bitog) was mobil clean would do the job better. Than came castrol with there anti sludge compain. Like I said before, now st synthetic claims they help with sludge, (it was written on the back of my 5g jug.) Today, I'm calling mobil hotline, see if I can get any answers. Will post.
This is a great site, by the way!
 
I was speaking on the best way to prevent sludge, not clean it up. If you are looking to clean up sludge, then auto-rx is the answer. No oil sold in stores will be able to clean anywhere close to as good as it. If you are looking to clean up an engine with an oil, your best bet would be an HDEO (heavy duty engine oil)... Although it still hasn't been proven that they clean as well as they are thought to.
 
Will most likely do auto-rx sxg6, but until I can get the valve cover off and see inside, I won't do anything for now. Will be curious to see if mobil recommends synthetic or dino for cleaning (since for 20k I ran there synthetic 5w30)
 
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I would just look for black dirty oil, and change it at 3K conventional and 5K max synthetic. If it is not black and dirty then you have the wrong oil. And keep in mind that there is nothing magic about synthetics. They have low solvency and need a lot of help to prevent sludge formation.



Everything but group I or V needs help with solvency. It's why those 2 types are always used for additive carriers. Group 1 on it's own is a poor oil and is known to help cause sludge. Group V is very expensive and not always the best choice either unless mixed with other oils. Dino's are virtually all grp II+ now and need a solvency carrier so I don't see how your comment relates to modern oils. One of the reasons that we've gone to grp II oils is to alleviate the sludge issues of those solvent grp Is.
 
OK guys. Just got off the phone with mobil. He said stick with synthetic for a cleaner engine. The truck and suv 5w30 has more oxidation resistance, slightly different add pack. Also just change pcv valve, brought up that was the problem with toyota engines. Tried to get out some info on sodium as cleaning agent. Yes is the answer, but still calcium, is still used for cleaning, and other.
 
"It seems that as time passes, and bitog gets more members.. i go more and more by new members thinking they know everything and that their preconceived are correct no matter what anyone says. Don't get me wrong, i dont claim to know everything.. But at least I don't go spreading misinformation. "

I'm with you Bro, I will add that MOST of the advice I've read here recently on oil analysis interpretation is ill informed at best and arrogantly inaccurate in the worse case.

I've taken my waders off, and am in the
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Some of the additive reps that post here are clueless about their own products displaying inarticulate stupidity and ignorance.
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To answer the thread question; the properly formulated lubricant can fight "sludge" development. In some cases no matter what mechanical changes you make to the engine or oil brand the problems still exist. Thats when a fully formulated lubricant may need real world chemical help to contain. Oil analysis can provide emperical help as a tuning tool in measuring the effectiveness of using some additives to correct.

Terry
 
Way back when I joined here, the Toyota and Dodge sludge monster engines were a hot topic. General consensus was the best way to battle the sludge was simply to buy the cheapest oil and filter available, i.e. SuperTech, and change every 2000 miles.
 
There is no misinformation in what I said. If you have a point to contest be specific and we can discuss. If your used oil is not dirty and black your oil is a problem, or you are changing it at 1000 miles or something.
 
James all I was saying was that group III & IV synthetics have very poor natural cleaning ability. In fact their solvency for sludge and additives is lower than group I & II. Synthetics only cope with this problem by using a good additive pack that overcomes this negative aspect of the group III & IV's. And that depends on the blender. Some may not choose well. I realize this seems to be a big surprise for many BITOG contributors, but it is the truth.
 
The problem is that lower group #s also have lower natural VIs and need improvers that break down as do the oils themselves more easily. Solvency is good but if the mix also makes sludge at a faster rate, it's limit of suspension is actually reached much sooner. They also get dirty faster because they're actually contributing to the dirt. It's why older formulations needed more frequent changes. They get used up quickly. Extreme conditions only exasperate matters.
 
Ron AKA, I agreed that a group II oil with a strong add pack MAY be better than synthetic. Semi synthetic put up some strong numbers in the voa section. Couldn't an oil which contains higher calcium, magnesium, silicone, with shorter oci's do the job? Am I hearing that it's the oil, and not what's in the add pack that matters?
 
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There is no misinformation in what I said. If you have a point to contest be specific and we can discuss. If your used oil is not dirty and black your oil is a problem, or you are changing it at 1000 miles or something.




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James all I was saying was that group III & IV synthetics have very poor natural cleaning ability. In fact their solvency for sludge and additives is lower than group I & II. Synthetics only cope with this problem by using a good additive pack that overcomes this negative aspect of the group III & IV's. And that depends on the blender. Some may not choose well. I realize this seems to be a big surprise for many BITOG contributors, but it is the truth.




Ron, yes unfortunately, there is a good bit of misinformation in some of what you post. One trend you exhibit is to focus narrowly (dare I say obsessively) one just one feature of an oil (or certain group or class of oils) to the exclusion of the dezens, if not hundreds of others features or qualities; and then, based upon your focus on one narrow characteristic, you make broad-brush declarations about the oils in question. With respect to this thread, solvency and color (in use) are prime examples. These are but two of the observable characteristics of a motor oil, among the very many characteristics that all bear upon the user's ultimate result, good, bad or indifferent.

Take, for example, this statement you made earlier in this thread:
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I would just look for black dirty oil, and change it at 3K conventional and 5K max synthetic. If it is not black and dirty then you have the wrong oil. And keep in mind that there is nothing magic about synthetics. They have low solvency and need a lot of help to prevent sludge formation.




First, as correctly pointed out by another member earlier, color is not reliable indicator of oil quality or performance (diesels turn oil black almost immediately). You also totally overlook the possibility that you might just have a clean running engine. For example, a few years back, I was driving, of all things, a V-6 Camry, with the arguably infamous 1MZ V-6. During the wty, it developed a slight seeping oil leak around the front valve/head cover. I wandered back to the service bay to have a look for myself, and saw it with the cover off – all you could see was two shiny clean camshafts, their associated hardware, and a large expanse of clean, bare aluminum underneath. This, btw, was late in a fill of Mobil-1 (in fact, they changed to a new fill of M1 after doing the repair.
The oil in this engine, which had been M1 from after the first ~1500 miles or so, always stayed very clean looking. It darkened just a tad, but always stayed completely transparent. AND on top of that, the engine was squeaky clean inside. Well, how do you account for that? I think I had exactly the correct oil for that engine.

Solubility? Well, I’m pretty well convinced by the mass survival of engines being fed synthetic oils, that this is a non-issue as to finished lubes, regardless of base origin, used anywhere remotely near a reasonable interval for the product at issue. I’ve tried a couple long-ish OCIs and seen others go far longer (data in our own UOA section). You certainly are correct about solubility in a general and theoretical sense, but experience has proven that in reality, the inherent solubility of a base oil fades into relative insignificance when you consider finished lube products as they are actually used in the real world. By making solubility into a bigger issue than it really is, you are spreading mis-information. Same for color.

Finally, if you want to see an oil that "needs a lot of help to prevent sludge formation", I'd go with a nice solvent refined, Group-I.
 
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You also totally overlook the possibility that you might just have a clean running engine



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Agreed on that point. I'm 4300 miles into an OCI of Pennzoil 5W20 SM Yellow-bottle Dino. I keep waiting for it to turn dirty, but as with the synthetics and other Dino I've run in this car (it has 23K on it) it goes on and on without getting dirty. Same-same as the day I changed it. I'm 50/50 highway-parkway, and no stop and go, and rarely a trip shorter than ten miles, admittedly. NoneTheLess, either all the oil I've run in this car has crummy solvency and I'm secretly sludging, or this car has zero blow-by, and the PCV catch can is keeping even THAT bit out of the combustion stream.

So, that's the choice in evaluation. Crummy oil, or clean running engine?

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Ron AKA, I agreed that a group II oil with a strong add pack MAY be better than synthetic. Semi synthetic put up some strong numbers in the voa section. Couldn't an oil which contains higher calcium, magnesium, silicone, with shorter oci's do the job? Am I hearing that it's the oil, and not what's in the add pack that matters?




To be fair it is both the base oil and add pack. It is true that group I is more likely to breakdown due to high temperature oxidation, and form sludge earlier. However, it can also hold it in suspension with the help of detergents. Group III & IV are much more resistant to high temp oxidation, but that is not the only cause of sludge, there is low temperature sludge and varnish formation that has nothing to do with high temperatures. The problem with III & IV's is that they don't hold this sludge well, and in fact they have trouble keeping add packs in solution/suspension due to their low solvency. That is why there probably are no pure group III and IV oils, and they use some dreaded dino, or group V to help with solubility.

So a good synthetic will do as well but not necessarily better than a good group II for sludge prevention and keeping the engine clean. Now if you go for extended oil changes then the synthetics may fare better in the long run.
 
"Ron, yes unfortunately, there is a good bit of misinformation in some of what you post."

I guess we will have to agree to disagree here. I've had many gasoline vehicles/bikes over the years and have yet had one that did not turn the oil near black in 3000 miles. This includes GM, Ford, Chrysler, Nissan, Toyota, Kawasaki, Yamaha... So perhaps there is this magic clean engine out there, but I have not (nor do I want to) see it. Clean oil - clean engine does not add up.

If you are suggesting sludge and varnish are not problems why then are there standards for low temperature sludge, and why are they tightening those standards in GF-5? I would suggest it is a problem and more likely with synthetics than group II's.

Appreciate this may not be popular with all the BITOG folk who have talked themselves round and round the same products for years and convinced themselves by repeating the same thing over and over again that they are truths.

PP is a prime example. This is the greatest oil since sliced bread, and it is cheap! Now they find out it is really group III. Suspect there are a bunch of BITOG folk with broken ankles from jumping on and off the PP bandwagon.

There are a few things here that keep get spoken of as unquestionable truths:

UOA is essential
EOCI are great with synthetics
Group IV's are great, and Group III is bad
High TBN's are great
The XXw number needs to be high if it does not snow
Auto-RX is a legitimate product (and should be added to your oil before you drive off the new car lot)
VOA is meaningless - and clean oil is good
Oil has magic properties that can't be measured with specifications

I would suggest all BITOG propogated myths.... So talk about spreading misinformation!
 
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Synthetics only cope with this problem by using a good additive pack that overcomes this negative aspect of the group III & IV's. And that depends on the blender. Some may not choose well. I realize this seems to be a big surprise for many BITOG contributors, but it is the truth.





Ron, first of all, again, you have a hat full of theories that wander all over the map.

Second, since when does debating a position based on mis-information equate to being a "rebel" or "bucking" popular opinion?
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OK, let's work on the term "sludge", which you use as a term to describe all engine deposits.
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Sludge is a soft gelatinous formation that is generated when the oil is exposed to lower temperatures, during circulation, and the sludge precursors of moisture, fuel loading, and oxidation components are present.

Engine deposits can also consist of varnish, which is fuel related in origin, or hard carbon depsosits that have attached to various surfaces. But both are separate from the sludge issue.

Now, the issue with Grp I vs. synthetics is not the solvency of existing gelatinous sludge formations. It is preventing the formation of these deposits, something that a synthetic is very good at, and the all Grp I fomulations that are GF-2 and older, were very poor at.

Sludge accumulations, in the upper engine regions and in the oil pan are very difficult to clean out. This is not a job for a lubricating oil - it requires solvents, Auto-Rx, etc.
 
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