Wanna do the right thing
so what should I use?
Thanx
Rob
so what should I use?
Thanx
Rob
what oil ?? 2004 Frod Taurus 24V
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How much $$$ do you want to spend on oil ??
Use synthetics if you don't mind spending the money. Havoline/Chevron or TropArtic if you want a high quality, low cost oil.
Use synthetics if you don't mind spending the money. Havoline/Chevron or TropArtic if you want a high quality, low cost oil.
I'd say any decent 5w-20 should do the job. MC, Havoline, Chevron, PZ, etc....have all done well.
Michael
Michael
My dad uses 5W-20 Chevron supreme in his 2004 Taurus, says the gas mileage is great. Sometimes the 5W-20 Chevron is hard to find though.
Triple_Se7en
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Why all the hype on a product that doesn't exist anywhere anymore?quote:
Originally posted by pscholte:
And your point is?quote:
Originally posted by Ray H:
Some around here would have you feeding GC to everything from your refrigerator door hinges to your pencil sharpener.
Seriously, Ray, when an oil as special as GC (proven as special in UOAs and in rigorous testing) I find no reason to recommend something else UNLESS: (1) a particular engine has already demonstrated a perfect match with another oil or (2) I believe it would be one of those rare cases where it just wouldn't be right for that application (e.g an SUV operated off-road--for real--year-round in Arizona, Southern Utah or Nevada, then it is M1 T&SUV). Also, I don't think you should downplay the demands of a 24v engine, although granted they don't all need M1 0W-40.
PS I have used GC in my Taurus with excellent result...gas mileage improved about 2.5 to 3.5 mpg highway and about 2.5 city. I saw a consistent mpg improvement over time, not just as "a one tank wonder."
Just because there was a few month surge on Green Castrol last year, well.... it's all gone now. The Gold stuff going around now is not the green stuff you guys are hoarding in your basements & garages.
Who wants to go to 8 different Auto Zones to find five quarts of Gold GC? It's good oil... but so is Esso for Canadians and Mobil-1 for USA folks.
Triple_Se7en,
First, in some places, I think there is probably still a good supply of The Green. I think I can still find it here in the Springs (with only 1 stop no less). Second, we have been buying it since 03 so it is not a few month's surge last year. Granted the Gold is no doubt not the Green, but M1 Ep is not M1, the Motorcraft of 2005 could very well not be the Motorcraft of 2003, and the Pennzoil of 2005 is not the Pennzoil of 2003 either...do you want the technology to stand still? Sure I love my Green, to the tune of about 185 quarts (not counting the Gold and BC I have). And, in fact neither you nor I KNOW what the Gold consists of so it's pretty premature to make a lot of statements about it. Third, if people want to engage in the hunt, what is wrong with that? I have never tried to lead anyone to believe that if I recommended GC it would be easy to find, but if you are recommending a diamond to someone you don't back off because rhinestones are easier to find.
First, in some places, I think there is probably still a good supply of The Green. I think I can still find it here in the Springs (with only 1 stop no less). Second, we have been buying it since 03 so it is not a few month's surge last year. Granted the Gold is no doubt not the Green, but M1 Ep is not M1, the Motorcraft of 2005 could very well not be the Motorcraft of 2003, and the Pennzoil of 2005 is not the Pennzoil of 2003 either...do you want the technology to stand still? Sure I love my Green, to the tune of about 185 quarts (not counting the Gold and BC I have). And, in fact neither you nor I KNOW what the Gold consists of so it's pretty premature to make a lot of statements about it. Third, if people want to engage in the hunt, what is wrong with that? I have never tried to lead anyone to believe that if I recommended GC it would be easy to find, but if you are recommending a diamond to someone you don't back off because rhinestones are easier to find.
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Pscholte, I'd truly like to learn the specifics involved with repeated fuel economy increases related to the use of the GC. I'm not certain but I don't believe GC is friction modified (carries the API donut but not the starburst) and it certainly shows greater resistance to flow at higher temperatures than other lubricants in the same viscosity range (Kv's starting at 12 cSt's is nearing the 40 grade).
A 10% fuel economy increase (2½ to 3½ mpg in a 20 to 30 mpg vehicle) over comparable products under the same circumstances is certainly notable.
A 10% fuel economy increase (2½ to 3½ mpg in a 20 to 30 mpg vehicle) over comparable products under the same circumstances is certainly notable.
FV,
All I can tell you is IT HAPPENED!...and, as I said before, with a consistently demonstrated increase over time. I try to be really careful when I make claims that might affect someone's purchasing decisions so that what I say is as TRUE as I can know it to be. I have kept track of my gas mileage for years, always trying to fill to the same level in the filler neck so that the numbers are accurate...and I DID see the mileage increase...can't give you the scientific explanation...but I CAN vouch for the results.
I believe SLX had the old Energy Conserving II rating, although it doesn't have the Starburst. Also if you meet the API starburst and want to use the package you have implied energy conserving so you would have to meet the ACEA spec. for that. Which you might not be able to do, because of the different reference oils.
Some Amsoil products get better fuel efficiency than other Amsoil products in the same viscosity range and it is documented.
It is possible with better ring seal and the right friction modifiers.
I don't think we'll define it, but it happens.
Any of the 5w20's will work well. If it were my car payment, I'd use a full synthetic especially since you have a bunch of cams and cold winters!
Also, use a quality filter. You can't go wrong with the motorcraft filter which is sold at various autopart stores and wallyworld.
Hi Pscholte, do you work for Castrol. What engine oil did you use before GC came along. I never saw a UOA from you using GC , yet you praise it like its the best thing sense, well you know what i mean.
Hi,
drums57 - there is no doubt that Pscholte is a great fan of GC. I am too and I can confirm that its repeated formulation changes since its introduction in 1996 have produced a very fine product indeed
Castrol prior to the BP takeover were perhaps the most responsible developer of excellent products - gear oils, engine oils and etc - in both mineral, semi-synthetic and full synthetic formulations. Their Formula "R" 10w-60 is a classic and IMHO without a competitor!
Pscholte recommending as stated by Ray H;
"Some around here would have you feeding GC to everything from your refrigerator door hinges to your pencil sharpener."
- is easy to do when the product can and does do the job very well indeed!
My refrigerator doors do not squeek and my pencil sharpener has never suffered excessive valve train wear through excessive shearing (Hi Ted & Pablo)
Like Pscholte, I would recommend GC without hesitation in the appropriate application - as an A3/B3-04 and Manufacturer Approved oil it is probably without parallel
I first used GC Formula SLX 0w-30 in late 1996 and progessively in a variety of engines ranging from a BMW R100RS bike to a V6 Explorer
You could say I added a little to its development in OZ! Now sold as Formula "R" 5w-30 it is popular here
Regards
Doug
drums57 - there is no doubt that Pscholte is a great fan of GC. I am too and I can confirm that its repeated formulation changes since its introduction in 1996 have produced a very fine product indeed
Castrol prior to the BP takeover were perhaps the most responsible developer of excellent products - gear oils, engine oils and etc - in both mineral, semi-synthetic and full synthetic formulations. Their Formula "R" 10w-60 is a classic and IMHO without a competitor!
Pscholte recommending as stated by Ray H;
"Some around here would have you feeding GC to everything from your refrigerator door hinges to your pencil sharpener."
- is easy to do when the product can and does do the job very well indeed!
My refrigerator doors do not squeek and my pencil sharpener has never suffered excessive valve train wear through excessive shearing (Hi Ted & Pablo)
Like Pscholte, I would recommend GC without hesitation in the appropriate application - as an A3/B3-04 and Manufacturer Approved oil it is probably without parallel
I first used GC Formula SLX 0w-30 in late 1996 and progessively in a variety of engines ranging from a BMW R100RS bike to a V6 Explorer
You could say I added a little to its development in OZ! Now sold as Formula "R" 5w-30 it is popular here
Regards
Doug
I guess by now people already know what I will recommend just by seeing my name, but in NY...in a Taurus...GC is the ticket. If GC is not available, then Mobil1 5W-30 EP. I am really not a fan of any M1 product except 0W-40 and 15W-50 AND you probably don't need either of those...although with the 24v engine, the 0W-40 would not be overkill.
What's wrong with Ford's current recommendation - Motorcraft 5W-20 "SM"? There's nothing particularly "special" about engines with four valves per cylinder these days. (Even my Hyundai has 24 valves!) Some around here would have you feeding GC to everything from your refrigerator door hinges to your pencil sharpener.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Not sure what your definition of 'right thing' is, but a Motorcraft filter with Motorcraft syn-blend 5W-30 every 5K ain't such a bad idea.
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I've worked on several Duratec powered Taurus and I must admit that they seem to be very easy on oil. I rarely see a dirty top-end unles the owner was completely negligent and even then I'd only see varnish accumulations and no soft sludge.
I'm going to recommend a very simple maintenance program of using a name brand (any brand) SM rated 10W-30. Change it at 3,000 (if mostly city driving)to 5,000 mile (mostly highway) intervals depending upon your useage.
I'm going to recommend a very simple maintenance program of using a name brand (any brand) SM rated 10W-30. Change it at 3,000 (if mostly city driving)to 5,000 mile (mostly highway) intervals depending upon your useage.
And your point is?quote:
Originally posted by Ray H:
Some around here would have you feeding GC to everything from your refrigerator door hinges to your pencil sharpener.
PS I have used GC in my Taurus with excellent result...gas mileage improved about 2.5 to 3.5 mpg highway and about 2.5 city. I saw a consistent mpg improvement over time, not just as "a one tank wonder."
I use and suggest, Mobile 1, 5W20 with the Motorcraft oil filters. The vehicles I service with this combination: 2003 Taurus, 2002 Mustang GT, 2004 5.4 F-250, and soon I'll service a 2005 Sable with the 24V engine. My oci is 3,500 using the severe duty recommendation. Mostly short trips, and heavy towing is the norm for these vehicles.
In order: No, not by a long shot; M1 0W-30 and 0W-40; I was using the latter just before I put in the GC; take a look at the UOAs that have been posted; show me an oil that performs as consistently in a wide variety of vehicles and under varying conditions to include drag strip time; I'm already ready for you to tell me Havoline is better; if that is what you believe that is fine...but tell me this...where is YOUR empirical data?
trop artic 5/30 if still in warranty.
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